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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Twin City 40


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  #21  
Old 05-12-2016, 06:10:15 PM
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Jeff Vigue Jeff Vigue is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Let me say that I've enjoyed meeting Mike and helping him along. He's a great guy and an asset to our hobby. We built a die to reproduce the early style wheel lugs which we both needed. (me more than him) These were pressed out of 1/4 inch steel and not an easy task. The reproductions came out looking exactly like the originals. I'm anxious to see some of the more recent pictures of the project. Mike, I still don't have my transmission back together!
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  #22  
Old 05-12-2016, 08:32:47 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Harmeling View Post

In an even later iteration, this engine was even built with a ring gear and electric start.
Here is a short video of the electric start version. Nice sounding engine!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j03cINumszI

Twin City must of got about 3 decades worth of sales out of this basic engine design. I think the first were for sale in 1910. This one is tagged as a Minneapolis -Moline.
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  #23  
Old 05-12-2016, 08:39:10 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

The bull gears on these early models bolt to the hubs, but also bolt by brackets to the wheels. These early gears weren't used long. They were replaced by a stouter set up quickly in production.

Pic 1...one of the bull gears collected for the project. We didn't use this one due to the large crack. Fortunately we had three to choose from.

Pic 2...the tab that attaches to the framework.

Pic 3...How most of the tabs looked.

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  #24  
Old 05-12-2016, 08:44:12 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Pic 1...The gear being fixed at Lange's machine shop in Minnesota. Jason had posted this picture in another thread. We had gotten them to him at Rollag and he did a great job in repairing them.

Pic 2...The gears back at the shop and good as new. We think that the pour wasn't a good design originally as the metal, per Jason, had been quite crystalized by the time it got to filling those tabs. This resulted in an inherently weak spot. On the bright side, there wasn't much wear at all on the gearing... probably because they all broke too soon to wear much!

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  #25  
Old 05-13-2016, 08:02:11 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

In continuing on with the wheels, these are pictures of the wheels we had to work with.

Pics 1 and 2...the original two wheels.

Pic 3...some of the lugs on the originals

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  #26  
Old 05-13-2016, 08:08:46 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

We were fortunate to find 2 additional wheels on separate trips to Gary Biewers' in Barnesville, MN. You never know what will be in his lot.

Pics 1 and 2...A nearly pristine "late style" round spoked wheel. Someone had previously welded plates over each hole in the rim.

Pic 2...A second wheel. This is an earlier round spoked wheel. The cleats are at more of a 30 degree angle where as the later one's cleats are at a 45. The later ones also had a reinforcing bar on either side whereas the early one did not. We couldn't be too picky.

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  #27  
Old 05-14-2016, 12:42:13 AM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Mike...It seems like kind of a flimsy way to mount a bull gear on a wheel especially those flat irons that are suppose to apply the torque to the wheel band. One must bear in mind that these rear wheels were engineered in 1910 and the design ended up too light for the stresses that were encountered in the field. Rumely had similar rear wheel problems on their early OilPull E's.

Those early rear wheels really don't seem heavy enough for plowing but that's what they got used for.

1. Close up of the wheel construction on the early round spoke wheels. Note the flat wheel band with no edge reinforcements.
2. Later flat spoke rear wheel detail. Much stouter!
3-4. Plowing scenes with the early TC-40's.
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  #28  
Old 05-14-2016, 08:24:32 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

So we were now in better shape with the wheels, but we had other problems: if you think through the brackets visible in the first picture, we had two right hand wheels and no left. We had a third wheel with a different cleat pattern.

In early pictures, extension rims have either the 45 degree cleats or horizontal cleats.

We decided we would have to reverse one wheel and use the real early one for extension rims.

We picked the rougher of the two 45 degree wheels to reverse, as we would have to drill new holes and countersink them anyway.

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  #29  
Old 05-15-2016, 10:57:00 AM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

One rim had to have the holes re-drilled through the welded plates. The countersinks were okay. Its cleats were in good shape.

The rim that had to be reversed also had a lot of rotten cleats on it. In the later style rims, the cleats were held on by 2 bolts. The early cleats were held on by 4 rivets each. We cut off the brackets on this wheel, then cut off the rotten cleats. Of course all of the rivets then had to be drilled out. This resulted in many days with my dad and I manning a mag drill and making holes.

Given the offsets of the spokes, one extension had to have it's holes reversed as well.

In this picture you can see what they were looking like after all of this was done.

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  #30  
Old 05-15-2016, 06:16:20 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

As Mike stated there are some differences in the extension rims used on the early round spoked rear wheels. Here are a couple of pictures to illustrate the 2 extension rim lug patterns available on the early 40's. The horizontal lugs were the first pattern and were matched with the early 30 degree wheels. The 45 degree wheel bands are of heavier construction with reinforced edges. The extensions for these wheels have the lugs placed at 45 degree angles to match. I'm sure some mixing and matching of parts happened as the years went by.

Mike...What kind of guide did you use when you split the wheel band? Use a plasma cutter?
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  #31  
Old 05-15-2016, 09:33:33 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Mark... thanks for the great pictures.

Yes, we used a plasma cutter with guide fabricated to fit the inside of the wheel to keep it true.

Mike
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  #32  
Old 05-17-2016, 06:33:08 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

These are close-ups of the wheels and new holes, counterbores.

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  #33  
Old 05-17-2016, 06:36:22 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Given that the extension rims have the different cleat angle, the cleat itself is different than those on the main rims. We cut off a couple good ones to use as patterns, built them up, and had new ones cast out of ductile. They were jigged up and drilled to the holes on the rims. We then riveted them to the rims. Fortunately there weren't many of these needed.

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  #34  
Old 05-17-2016, 06:41:24 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

As Jeff mentioned earlier, we both needed some new cleats to replace bad ones or non-existant ones. I cut off a couple for patterns and got them to him. Through some of his contacts, he was able to create a die and have them pressed out.

They were a perfect fit. That was no small feat, given the compound curve of the cleats.

We then had to drill the holes and rivet them to the rims. On our main rims we replaced approximately 35 out of 80 cleats. We were really wishing they were the later style not requiring 4 rivets a piece.

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  #35  
Old 05-17-2016, 07:36:22 PM
Bryan Donaldson Bryan Donaldson is online now
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Default Re: Twin City 40

This is a very impressive project! Do you have pictures of the die set-up for pressing the new cleats? I would be interested in hearing more about how you formed the dies and got the curvature correct.
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  #36  
Old 05-18-2016, 08:26:07 PM
Jeff Blaney Jeff Blaney is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

After looking at the picture in Post 34 of the completed wheel, I was curious... are you planning plugging all of the left over holes?
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  #37  
Old 05-19-2016, 09:37:07 AM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Bryan... I don't have any pictures of the process. Jeff had made a template of the wheels on his tractor to get the curves accurate. He had contacts that were able to create the dies. I don't know the rest of the details, other than they were very good at their craft.

Jeff...we are going to leave the holes there as beauty marks.

Mike
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  #38  
Old 05-19-2016, 02:45:15 PM
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Default Re: Twin City 40

Mike,

I understand that Rudy Rathert, who has many of his tractors on display in a museum at Forman, ND, is restoring a very early Twin City 40(?) - possibly the type with the enclosed cab. Have you heard anything about this?

All the best

David
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  #39  
Old 05-20-2016, 07:17:31 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

The spokes on these wheels are threaded on one end with the lock nut holding them in place as discussed earlier. The other end is swedged out to a 60 degree cone. To make these we made jigs with countersunk dies on the top. We would cut round stock to fit the jig. Then we would heat the end, drop it in the die, then use a rivet hammer to flatten the end into the countersunk hole.

It took some adjusting to get the distances right, but in the end it worked well. We made separate jigs for the front and rear spokes.

After this we would run the other end through a threading machine.

This job was all done 2 winters ago. We had extra heaters in the shop, as several days it was well below zero outside. Between that and the heating of the round stock, not to mention btu's generated using the rivet hammer, we stayed nice and warm.

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  #40  
Old 05-20-2016, 07:22:12 PM
Mike Harmeling Mike Harmeling is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 40

After we had all of the spokes made, we centered the hub in the rim and put it all together like a bicycle wheel.

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