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Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine


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  #1  
Old 10-17-2016, 09:08:33 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

This spring I picked up what I thought was a innocent, unique engine from western PA. The 4HP Myrick project was my introduction to hot tube engines. I guess, you could say after I got it running on Labor Day, I needed a new project and had eyes on a big engine.

Flash forward to Saturday and my first visit to the Coolspring show. Woke my little dude up at 4AM and headed west. He approved and I guess you could say I got a "little" something to feed the addiction. Mostly all there, just missing a bearing cap. We welcomed home the 20HP Reid project, much to the head shake of my wife as I pulled into the driveway.

I'll try to keep this thread updated along the way as I am sure I may have a question here and there. Just like my first hot tube engine, this is definitely my first with something of this magnitude. Cant wait to get it going but it will take me some time. You can see the wagon running gear I plan on mounting it on in the back ground. So, follow along, offer suggestions, whatever you choose. Hopefully this is a fun ride.
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  #2  
Old 10-17-2016, 09:32:27 PM
W.P.Klein W.P.Klein is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Oh, it will be a fun ride for sure! It is a lefty and has the bolt flange for attaching the clutch which makes it what they called the Sisterville style - in case you didn't already know. I hope you got the main valve and mixing valve as well. There are a couple good fellas on this site that will fix you up with some dandy repro chimney parts. Your helper sure looks happy!
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  #3  
Old 10-17-2016, 09:48:10 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Thanks Bill. I did not know that. I had read something about that in the archives of G.E.M. but I will check into it for my reference.

From my initial discussions with the seller, all of the parts should be there except for a main crank bearing cap. There had been a few parts that had been reproduced but I am seeing everything, including hot tube parts in the pile. I'm not as particular about originality as I am about making it run. That's goal #1. We'll make it pretty later.
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:11:09 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is online now
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

If you plan to put it on that cart with the rubber tires, you had better think of some kind of support for the frame when you run it! These engines are not balanced well, and you will get a resonant bounce from the engine as it runs. This bounce will be accelerated by the rubber tires! These engines were designed to be mounted on a heavy solid surface. in your case, if mounted on rubber, you will need to support the frame on good solid jacks or support to prevent it from becoming a real hopper!
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Old 10-22-2016, 06:48:38 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

One area I may need some advice from you guys on is the Babbitt bearings on the crank. Initial inspection shows they aren't bad but the lips on the inside are a little rough and the were pressing out. I would probably get by just leaving well enough alone, but while its apart, I was thinking maybe a new Babbitt should be poured? I have no idea how to approach that so any advice would be welcome. Not urgent; I'll be reading up on this.
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:25:15 AM
Peter Holmander Peter Holmander is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Congrats on your new engine and welcome to a fun and interesting hobby. And I thought I was the only one who got the famous "Wife Headshake" lol. I have a 15 HP Reid that is a work in progress. I agree with Andrew about the rubber tired cart. I built one for my engine but if I had to do it all over again, I would not have wasted my time and effort. If you plan on taking her to a show or two when you get her running, then a 2 axle trailer is the way to go. Like Andrew said, these engines were not made to be portable at all. Most were mounted on concrete in a well house where they amazingly ran 24 hrs. a day, 365 days a year. Even mounted on a trailer, a running Reid will need to be blocked up so it doesn't shake the springs of the trailer to death. If it's strictly a stay at home engine, then find a place you like and mount it on some oak timbers with a nice wide base and you will be fine. My opinion, if there is no serious play in the flywheel bearings, and there is some wear left, I would not mess with the bearings. I'm sure other members will chime in and give you their opinions. Keep us all posted on your progress. You will find all the help you need here.
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Old 10-23-2016, 09:21:14 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Thanks Peter. I had discussed the bearing topic with others and it seems I may be over thinking the issue a little. With proper lubrication and the limited run time this engine will see, these could last a long time. I am just usually over cautious not to take any short cuts.

With Halloween coming up next weekend, I received the "get that engine off of the trailer" request from the wife because the trailer is needed to haul kids around the neighborhood. So, with some engineering, it is up on its wagon. For now, the wagon was the best option I had found available for the money so it will be on there at least through the winter as a way to move it around. I will need to maintain some form of mobile setup for my John Deere A to move it around. Space is limited so if its not easy to move, it usually creates issuesIf I decide to make that its permanent home, I'll definitely consider a way to block the trailer up for running it.

Appreciate all of the input. Its kind of the same as other engines, just on a much larger scale so details get magnified!
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2016, 08:43:53 PM
W.P.Klein W.P.Klein is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

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Originally Posted by StrikeForce View Post
From my initial discussions with the seller, all of the parts should be there except for a main crank bearing cap.
Have you found that bearing cap yet? I was working on my engine pavilion this weekend and happened to think of your post - checked around & found a pair. It appears that your pics show the one you have has the babbit indicator tabs which mine does not. Shoot me an e mail if you want to discuss it further. Bill Klein
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Old 10-26-2016, 07:23:22 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Was going out of town for a few days so I wanted to put some tension on the charge piston to see if that would help work it free. Started putting pressure on a I hear a small "pop". Guess it wanted to come out and I wasn't going to argue! Cylinder bore looks pretty good; once I clean out the critter's collection.

I guess my one question here is, do you hone the charge cylinder walls? With not much heat and load, you wouldn't get the same break in that a regular cylinder would, correct?
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2016, 05:32:46 AM
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Elden DuRand Elden DuRand is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

I would guess that the charge cylinder, because I think it doesn't have a lot of pressure on it, doesn't have to seal as perfectly as the power cylinder. Cylinder wall finish is probably not that important.

Now, I open up the forum to someone who actually knows something about the subject.
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Old 10-27-2016, 08:52:33 AM
Bill Hazzard Bill Hazzard is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

I would just give it a light hone to clean off the surface rust and you will be fine.
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:56:05 AM
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by W.P.Klein View Post
Have you found that bearing cap yet? I was working on my engine pavilion this weekend and happened to think of your post - checked around & found a pair. It appears that your pics show the one you have has the babbit indicator tabs which mine does not. Shoot me an e mail if you want to discuss it further. Bill Klein
Bill, sent you a PM. Would be interested in exploring if the pair you have could work.
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Old 10-28-2016, 02:51:43 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is online now
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Exclamation Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

I would get a ball type glaze breaker and give it a quick once over, using plenty of WD-40 to flush out debris. Make sure to thoroughly flush out the cylinder and chambers to make sure all the debris is flushed out. You can flush out with kerosene or fuel oil too. Wipe dry with a good clean rag. Clean off the piston, and make sure all the rings are free and in good shape. Be sure the ring grooves are clean and free of carbon under the rings. Oil the piston and rings with SAE 30 oil to start, and install. These engines run with SAE 50 oil, but 30 WT will help get things 'wet' for first rollover. There is not much pressure on the charging cylinder - more vacuum for intake than pressure pushing the fuel/air mix into the power cylinder. You DO want to make sure the charge cylinder cross over valve is seating properly though! Firing pressure back feeding into the charge cylinder can pretzel the charge rod and or blow the charge piston clean out of the bore, if the valve does not hold! Is there an overpressure valve fitted to the charge cylinder? If not you might look into getting one! This valve blows off excess pressure, preventing this damage.

Where abouts is Kempton PA?
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:18:09 PM
Dustin D Ehli Dustin D Ehli is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

our 15 has a custom built rubber tired trailer that it is on, even under full load and speed on a brake it doesnt move much, for normal show speeds it just rocks a tiny bit, no big issue.
the tires are implement type though so high ply rating.

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Old 10-28-2016, 09:21:19 PM
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

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Originally Posted by Andrew Mackey View Post
I would get a ball type glaze breaker and give it a quick once over, using plenty of WD-40 to flush out debris. Make sure to thoroughly flush out the cylinder and chambers to make sure all the debris is flushed out. You can flush out with kerosene or fuel oil too. Wipe dry with a good clean rag. Clean off the piston, and make sure all the rings are free and in good shape. Be sure the ring grooves are clean and free of carbon under the rings. Oil the piston and rings with SAE 30 oil to start, and install. These engines run with SAE 50 oil, but 30 WT will help get things 'wet' for first rollover. There is not much pressure on the charging cylinder - more vacuum for intake than pressure pushing the fuel/air mix into the power cylinder. You DO want to make sure the charge cylinder cross over valve is seating properly though! Firing pressure back feeding into the charge cylinder can pretzel the charge rod and or blow the charge piston clean out of the bore, if the valve does not hold! Is there an overpressure valve fitted to the charge cylinder? If not you might look into getting one! This valve blows off excess pressure, preventing this damage.

Where abouts is Kempton PA?
Thanks for the notes; that sounds like a reasonable approach. The overpressure valve is on my list of items to put on as it has been highly recommended. Kempton is just a little west of Allentown, north of I78.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:28:55 AM
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Between waiting for the main cylinder to unstick itself and financing my free time at work, I have been looking into parts I'll need. The pressure relief valve on the charge cylinder. Do I need a Reid specific part or can I find a gas line pressure relief valve from a mechanical supplier? I saw in the archives something about a 100 psi valve needing to be set down to 10psi? That sounds a little low doesn't it? Anyone replaced this valve with a modern one?

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:57:11 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Looks like Christmas has come early. The big piston decided it wanted to move last weekend and I got it to come out today. Mounted up the flywheels last week so it is time to move the unit into the garage for the winter. So far, everything is looking good and I hope we can start piecing things together come the new year. I still need a bearing cap which is leaning towards getting a new casting but that also means new babbit bearings all around. I think the wrist pin bearing will also need some attention. Those are the biggest areas I have seen so far.
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Old 11-25-2016, 01:24:58 PM
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Updating this thread. Getting ready for a busy winter travel schedule so with the piston removed, I moved to the next step. Move to the garage for winter work/storage! Cant let this engine sit outside in the snow.

Almost like I planned for it to fit just inside the garage door and park it right next to the Farmall F14 that is in hibernation. Now the fun begins; its a little tight in there!
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:34:20 PM
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

If you have cleaned up the cylinders, give them a good coat of Lube oil on a good and wet rag, and seal off all openings with duck tape. This will help stop winter rusting from condensation, if your shop is not heated.

One quick note - if you run the engine, be sure to have water in it! A friend decided to run his 20 HP during the winter, with no water in it. The internal expansion stress between the hot power cylinder walls and the cold water jacket around it ended up breaking the water jacket free of the block! I got there after 1/2 an hour, and noted a 1/8" crack nearly all the way around the water jacket! When the engine cooled, the crack was nearly invisible Unfortunately, he ended up scrapping the engine, after it fell off his temporary mounts and busted a flywheel and bent the crank. Too bad, lots of still good parts lost He didn't know any better
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Old 12-10-2016, 04:29:50 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Andrew, appreciate the notes. Thankfully, I am a bit paranoid about running engines that are supposed to have water, without water. I haven't had a chance to clean up the cylinders yet, still need to find a hone tool that size! That's unfortunate about your friend, I may have become physically ill if that was my engine!

I need to make up some gaskets when I get back home from this trip, seal up the ports, and fill with water to check for leaks. Even though I got everything unstuck and out, I still haven't confirmed if I have an engine or a huge paperweight.
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