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Repouring crosshead babbitts?


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  #21  
Old 01-05-2017, 12:54:13 AM
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Skidmore Skidmore is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

I have poured the Rod bearing both ways. We have shafts made up for several different size cranks with collars that you can push up to the rod bearing and a set screw to hold it in place. That way you can pour it on the work bench. In your case I would melt the babbitt out of both halves. Repair the one half, make two 1/4" shims out of wood , brass, belting , copper Etc. and bolt it back up to the crank . Getting it centered on the throw is the tricky part and held in place. For the damming part I use rawhide boot laces and wrap them around the bearing and crank at the gap then put damtite clay over that, Almost forgot blacken the throw with a torch so the Babbitt wont stick to it. Grease on the throw melts and runs to the bottom and makes you pour look bad. My Grand Dad showed me that. Heat everything up good make sure to get the moisture out of the crank throw and the bearing. Very important. You can pour down through the oil hole where the licker bolts on. Another thing a good way to tell if your babbitt is ready to pour. Stick a pine stir stick in the Babbitt count to 5 and pull it out if it turns caramel color it's ready.
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2017, 12:09:42 PM
Kirk Taylor Kirk Taylor is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

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Originally Posted by con-rad View Post
So here's another babbitt bearing question, thought i'd ask here rather than make another thread.

As you can see in the photo, one of my bearing caps is broken so the babbitt needs to be melted out so it can be brazed together again. My question is what is the best way to pour that bearing half? it is best to use a dummy mandrel or use the crankshaft itself? I'd like to use the crank but it seems like damming it would be a challenge. any other wisdom?

Thanks!

connor
As Skidmore said, bolt everything together and pour it right on the shaft. Since you have a good half already, this will be an easy pour. Fill any oil grooves in the good half with damming compound and make the shims so they contact the journal. Put a clamp across the good half to hold it tight to the shaft. This will position the bearing in proper alignment. I usually fill the oil hole with aluminum foil or damming compound, make a funnel out of aluminum flashing, and pour the babbitt in one edge of the bearing with a vent on the other edge. Pouring down the oil hole works okay, too.
Dam everything well. If it blows out during the pour, you'll have to rip everything apart and start from scratch. You'll also have a big mess to clean up. The crankshaft and bearing don't have to be all that hot; warm to the touch is okay. Once you start to pour the babbitt, pour it very quickly. Don't trickle it in and don't stop in the middle......and don't spill it on your nylon tennis shoes or down your boot top.
I have an original thermocouple for checking babbitt temperature and usually pour ~750°F. The pine stick works just fine, too. Once the babbitt is melted and near pouring temperature, stir it well. Right before the pour, I throw a small piece of beeswax in, stir it around and skim the dirt off. When you're stirring, scrape the inside of the ladle to release any dirt that might be sticking to it beneath the surface of the babbitt.
The whole process isn't difficult; it's just common sense. Success is all about planning and preparation. It takes a couple of hours to set up and five seconds to actually pour the metal.
Things to keep in mind: Molten babbitt will run into and out of the tiniest of holes. When the babbit is flowing into a space, the air has to get out. Babbitt is dense and puts significant pressure on the dammed areas during the pour. Moisture and oil are NOT your friends. Babbitt doesn't normally stick to cool surfaces, but it will wrap around them and not let go. If it doesn't work the first, second, or third time, melt it out, clean up the mess, and have another go at it. Regardless of what you do, someone else has already done it.
Remember to have fun at some point along the way.

Kirk
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  #23  
Old 01-05-2017, 07:05:20 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

excellent advice, thank you again! I think i'll be saving the good half rather than melting it out like Skidmore suggested, it's the cap side so there's very little wear since it was just "along for the ride". It should make alignment a lot easier! Glad to know I can pour on the crank without too much issue. Hopefully i'll get to this bearing soon! Then i'll tackle the x-head next.

connor
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2017, 07:58:43 AM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Poured the cross head the other day. I poured them in the engine rather than in a fixture for a number of reasons, mainly ease of set up and alignment. bottoms came out great, tops would have been awesome as well if the damming hadn't failed. It was real hard to get damming in place on the uppers, but i think theyre still servicable. The bottoms will see most of the load anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6IiM1qlzXw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaeEQ_i6hSA

Now i'll clean it all up, scrape high spots, assemble rings, piston, rod, x head, connecting rod and then pour rod bearing.

connor
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  #25  
Old 04-23-2017, 11:52:52 AM
Kirk Taylor Kirk Taylor is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by con-rad View Post
Poured the cross head the other day. I poured them in the engine rather than in a fixture for a number of reasons, mainly ease of set up and alignment. bottoms came out great, tops would have been awesome as well if the damming hadn't failed. It was real hard to get damming in place on the uppers, but i think theyre still servicable. The bottoms will see most of the load anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6IiM1qlzXw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaeEQ_i6hSA

Now i'll clean it all up, scrape high spots, assemble rings, piston, rod, x head, connecting rod and then pour rod bearing.

connor
Hey, Connor,

Not bad. I just skimmed through your videos (w/o sound), and it looks like you had a great experience. You also seem to be very teachable. In one comment that I read, you mentioned using a stickier damming compound to help prevent blowouts. Babbitt-rite and similar oil-based compounds are prone to release when the casting is preheated. Even the heat from the pour alone can be enough to loosen the bond if the casting is thin or small. The solution is to use more damming compound. For instance, where your pour blew out on the side, you needed to pile up the damming compound to nearly the level of the pour hole and extend it out onto the adjacent bed plate. Using pieces of aluminum flashing in the dam, especially between the damming compound and the molten babbitt, will add to the integrity of the dam (and keep the compound from squeezing into places you don't want it).
The pour was well thought out and well executed. The rod bearing should be easy. Remember that the vertical depth of the molten babbitt will be much greater on the rod bearing than it was on the crosshead slide. This will create a significant amount of pressure on the dam. Pack and support it accordingly.

Kirk
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  #26  
Old 04-25-2017, 10:16:44 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Thanks!

Definitely could use some more damming... i used plumbers putty, i wasn't totally thrilled with it so i'll try something else next time.

good point on the pressure of the liquid babbitt with the rod bearing. You can see that's what did in the upper slide bearing, the babbitt filled the well all the way up, then it let go a moment later.

stay tuned for rod bearings!

connor
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  #27  
Old 06-05-2017, 09:15:04 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Poured the rod bearing last weekend and it came out GREAT! I'm super happy about it, and i credit skidmore's rawhide lace idea for the damming not blowing out. Thank you! Here's a video I made of the process:

prep:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4o9XTwGMHM

pour:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfQ2FJagST0

Thanks to all for your help. I feel like an expert now!

connor
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  #28  
Old 06-06-2017, 12:07:50 PM
Dirk Hochstetler Dirk Hochstetler is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

I use playdo for daming compound it doesn't melt when it's heated seems to stay where it supposed to works well and it's cheap. Can be reused also.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:40:04 PM
Kirk Taylor Kirk Taylor is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by con-rad View Post
Poured the rod bearing last weekend and it came out GREAT! I'm super happy about it, and i credit skidmore's rawhide lace idea for the damming not blowing out. Thank you! Here's a video I made of the process:

prep:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4o9XTwGMHM

pour:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfQ2FJagST0

Thanks to all for your help. I feel like an expert now!

connor
Very nice, Connor.
It looks as though you are well on your way to having a running engine.

Kirk
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  #30  
Old 06-07-2017, 06:14:19 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

I'll have to try pla-doh next time... i also feel that flour/water would work pretty well. However, I am starting to understand the effectiveness of more mechanical means of damming, such as the leather lace, wood bushings or washers, etc. As a beginner you don't expect such materials to hold up against molten metal, but they do!

connor
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