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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Case 18-32 K Project


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  #41  
Old 01-15-2019, 09:42:11 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Quote:
Originally Posted by G Willikers View Post
Russ?
Will you coat that cork with anything?
Thanx.
Im not sure yet, im still reading up on it. Hopefully someone will chime in with experience.
I talked to a fellow collector this morning and he says he seals his even though they say you don't have to, just in case.
He uses the red gas tank sealer thinned with lacquer thinner, brushed on.

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Old 01-16-2019, 07:24:05 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I would ask Joe B about sealing it. It seems to me he made some for a couple of his tractors about 4 or 5 years ago, not sure if he sealed them or not. I made one for my 18-32K about 4 years ago that I didn't seal. Trouble is I sold the tractor 2 years ago so I'm not sure how its holding up.
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  #43  
Old 01-26-2019, 09:28:50 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Some pics of transmission gearing in case anybody was curious about how these crossmotor tractors were set up.
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  #44  
Old 01-26-2019, 11:49:23 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Oh yeah. Interesting! Keep 'em coming if you would.
Plain bearings on/in those transmission shafts?
Oh. I have one of those floats in a Holley G carb for a T, sitting right in front of me so I haven't tested it yet.
I'm gonna leave it bare with no coating. We'll see.
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:00:58 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Case was one of the early users of SKF Ball bearings. So their either ball bearings or Timken tapered roller bearings. That's the reason those were very long lived tractors.
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  #46  
Old 01-31-2019, 12:04:56 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

The throttle butterfly plate was rusted out on the Kingston L, needed replaced. I looked around awhile for a replacement, while I was waiting for a source I decided these cold winter evenings may afford me some fabrication time, see if I could actually make one. I thought I could rough one out on the bandsaw then file it round and smooth. Looked through some carburetors in the pile to see if anything was close. The diameter is 1.58 on the long end and 1.55 at the shaft, I was going to find a washer or ANYTHING close for the final filing, clamping the roughed out plate to the pattern for filing. Found a Holley or Motorcraft two barrel base that had the EXACT plate size I needed but the plate was .063 thick and for the 1/4" shaft I needed the thickness of a box knife blade about .022. So this plate made a clamp and file pattern. Found a steel shelf castoff that .030 and filed for a couple of hours last night. Made two plates just in case as I tend to have to do things twice now and then. The throttle shaft is worn a little, BUT, I think with a new shaft bushing on the linkage end I can get by fine.

Probably should have machined a new shaft or went for a 5/16" shaft but I may just look through my parts for a 1/4" shaft yet. I could have made the Holley plate work with a 5/16" shaft, for those that want to know the Holley or Motorcraft plate has a number 112 on it, fits the carb perfectly.
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Old 01-31-2019, 01:41:07 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I have a question about the crankshaft gear. Mine is worn some and I managed to remove another one that is pretty nice. Both of these gears had a set screw threaded half into the crankshaft and half into the gear, plus the key. It looks like these were drilled clocked in different positions, so these threaded holes will not line up at all if I replace the gear, also drilling and threading the new gear for the exhisting crankshaft hole doesn't look like a good option. I suppose these were installed to keep the gear from moving end to end on the crankshaft.
Anybody run into this ? My crank gear is not completely unuseable, but it would be REALLY nice with the second gear.
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Old 02-05-2019, 10:48:12 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

It was a wonderful weekend, I was waiting for a nice day to roll the block out side, pull the sleeves and clean the mouse nests out. Anybody missing some carpet? Pictured pile was just from pulling one sleeve, they really had it packed full. Was able to use the McCormick- Deering sleeve puller off the tool board.
Cooked the block clean last night and examined the freeze crack a little further. This crack looks like it NEVER leaked but im going to wire brush the inner wall clean and lay some JB weld over it just for peace of mind. Imagine there could be some other tractors out there with such minor freeze push that the owners never even suspected it back in the day.
Sleeves all look really good, I may have to check out getting four of the piston ring grooves turned and wider rings made. Cam is looking good and all the lifters are fine. Found one extra lifter insert that the pushrod connects to in the lifter valley. I imagine at one time someone was looking for that.
Almost ready for some re-assembly.
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  #49  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:54:55 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

One thing about changing the crankshaft timing gear on these is that you cant get decent puller jaws behind them with the crank in the lower block. I needed to pull the crank anyway and do some cleaning so that happened this weekend.
The main bearings look really good and everything sees to be okay, I decided to install the second gear and braze the hole shut for the set screw. The gear pressed on well but I may still drill a new set screw yet in the area where the second gear was drilled. I can do that with the crank in the lower block, so, on we go. The primary drive cast housing had a crack in it I found after cleanup, got that welded up also. With the bent right hand wheel I think this tractor took some kind of hit in the right side.
Got the right wheel pulled in the process and dollied it out of the shop. Pulled the transmission cover to clean and reseal, looks like the transmission gears are in good shape. Later on we can pull the left wheel and check pinion, differential and reseal the final drive.
Need to check the steering box out before the primary drive cast housing goes back on. Also noticed before I took the flywheel off I found the timing mark on it and it was one bolt hole off, one lock washer missing on the mounting bolts so this engine had been apart extensively at some point.
By the way, has anyone pulled the extension shaft from the crank before? I couldn't get it to budge so I left it whole, couldn't get the whole length in the wash cabinet so I cleaned it by hand. No big thing at this point, just curious. That whole crank was some kinda heavy to handle.
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Old 02-11-2019, 11:07:34 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Transmission gears. By the way, anyone suggest a radiator core supplier?
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:18:22 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

With the thread search I found General Radiator out of Chicago, called them and they were very helpful. Sounds like I can give them some dimentions over the phone for a quote, go from there.
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:20:54 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Advanced Radiator
106 Washington Rd.
West Burlington IA 52655
319-752-5615
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  #53  
Old 02-13-2019, 11:39:54 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Last night I cleaned up the transmission cover, forks and shift linkage for re-assembly. The flatbar spring was broken on the forward lever, these keep the linkage from slipping out of gear instead of using detent balls or such. This tractor must have been inside a lot as the rod and tube weren't rusted together badly and everything came apart easily for cleaning. The parts tractor shift linkage was rusted up pretty good as it sat outside a while.
Called Kevin at Advanced Radiator as Joe suggested, very friendly guy, I think we found a core supplier.
My core isn't all that bad, I think four tubes would be closed off and some soldering possibly, but I am a firm believer in a good cooling system in our summer show months. And I am going
with a flat tube core as I really think they cool better than the original round tube style. Plus, it sounds like the flat tube option may be at least half the cost if not more. I have a flat tube core
in my 8-16 International and I cant get that tractor to run hot at all.
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Old 02-14-2019, 11:23:45 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Last night I welded some teeth on two of the cam gears, started on the worst worn gear first, then graduated to the second. Machined down the end on the one with a cracked outer hub end and brazed a washer to it to re-inforce it.
I think they will be alright, got em pretty hot and flowed well, next comes machining and filing. I plan to make a profile template or gauges on the other teeth as a filing reference.
Most broken teeth I have seen brazed in were completely gone, I still had half of a tooth left on one and a third on the other, I THINK these will turn out really well.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:28:02 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

I am finding out that im not much of a Case mechanic when it comes to transmissions.
I think its mainly because I got in a hurry. Been working steady on the tractor since last post, a bit here and a bit there. But I wanted to finish the transmission before I installed the engine block and as I was looking over the intermediate shaft I found the right side bearing was pretty bad. After messing with that for a while I decided the left side was bad enough to replace also so weather permitting I removed these from the parts tractor. Found everything to be different except for the two gears so I finally decided to install the entire earlier bearings, shaft and quills in my tractor, they were in great condition.
I thought about it awhile and decided the gears and bearing races needed to go onto the shaft first as the races had to be pressed on, then I would install the left side bearing assembly and install the shaft assembly from above.
That turned out to be a HORRIBLE plan. Couldn't get the shafts and bearings in, decided to pull the left side bearing back out, broke one of the set screws off in the frame and had to destroy the quill to get it all out, then tried the shaft again. Turns out I could have left the bearing assy in and just pressed one of the inner races off the shaft.
So...……...I had to machine parts for the larger id quill to accept the earlier small bearing. Meanwhile every time I press an inner bearing race on or off the shaft I have to emery cloth the race to fit the bearing. A friend told me to use hot oil to install the races instead of torch heat, so we will try that next. Looks like to me at least one of the inner races as to be installed with the shaft in the transmission and then I would be fine, as the gears wont go on the shaft with the races pressed on each end.
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  #56  
Old 03-25-2019, 01:14:37 PM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Back to damage control, as I was loading up parts the other day to take to the local machine shop I remembered the dad on "a Christmas story" gathering up the broken remains of his major award to bury them beside the garage while his son thought he heard "taps" faintly played.
Anyway, I had to have a spacer turned to fit the smaller bearing race into the later model casting for the left side bearing and I couldn't find anything I could make work. Then it was on to see if I could drill out the broken set screw. A 27/64 drill bit fit the bore so I used it to pilot for a smaller bit but every time the smaller bit would wander off center. I borrowed a magna base drill from work to try it, and the smaller bit would wander off also.
Finally gave in and after sharpening that 27/64 drill bit 5 times I finally managed to drill all the way through. Threaded the hole for 1/2" and decided to turn a bigger set screw to make work.
Also meanwhile, while I was drilling out I would remove shavings/cuttings as I went with a telescoping magnet that just fit in the hole. Sure enough, as I was almost through the dang end of the magnet came off and was stuck down in the hole. Needle nose wouldn't reach it. Thought about JB weld overnight and pull it out but as the drill was on loan I couldn't wait, had to get it out then. Used an easy out to get it to the top of the hole, then out with pliers. I truly think that prayer of desperation and sadness worked the most for removing that magnet. One of those; "dear Lord, I could sure use some help right now."
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:07:29 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Finally got the left side first reduction shaft bearing retainer machined, drilled the inner bearing retainer washer for #8 countersunk screws and assembled into the tractor, seems to roll pretty smooth but a hair tight right now, you can roll it by hand but it sure doesn't spin freely like it did out of the tractor. I suppose some break-in and time will give those bearings a new path in life.
NOW I could install the upper block, something I had been waiting for months on. Without the flywheel side gearcase on and the cam gear off its going to be a little easier installing the inner oil lines, I think. And the right side gearcase seal should be really good.
I noticed when I removed the upper block sometime someone used string to seal the upper to lower block, so I decided to see how that worked, but I also used silicone to finish the seal as we sure don't want to remove the upper block again later. If I would have just taken a little more time in assembly or waited until warmer weather I think all of this could have been done with a lot less machining and aggravation.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:17:07 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Something else I noticed when installing the main bearing caps, I marked the cotter pin holes in the studs and when I got near tight the hole moved. I had to start over tightening the studs completely in the lower block and THEN install the nuts, every one of them was at least one turn loose. Another pic or two, the right side and left side first reduction shaft bearings and retainers in thier happy place, the timing gear side fitting access to install the oil lines.
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Old 04-02-2019, 09:21:48 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Turned a new bolt for the enlarged bearing retainer set screw hole. Half inch bolt thread with a 27/64 bore below, the threads are usually at the very bottom of these holes, I made the threads at the top and anti-seized them.
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Old 04-04-2019, 09:02:49 AM
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Default Re: Case 18-32 K Project

Oil lines in as of last night, these have a horizontal tube running through the block with the inlet from the pump up inside. Three lines go from there to each main bearing cap, drilled crank oils the rod bearings from there. To the left outside the block at the end of the tube oil can go to the timing gears and pressure gauge.
Next to decide on the timing gears, and as the timing marks are different on them, timing by valve position and crank position as per the manual.
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