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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

McCormick Deering 10-20 Project


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  #21  
Old 04-18-2018, 06:29:52 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

I date them by the manifold, governor, fuel tank, side curtains and wheels. Basically by the production changes that were made on them through the years. From 1929-1939 it gets a little tougher other than an air cleaner and manifold change.
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  #22  
Old 04-20-2018, 01:05:10 AM
FredB2 FredB2 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

thanks russ actually i guess i really wanted to know is how you fit year with item, change/date. is there a publication on this anywhere? iirc 1020 was built 1922-1938? i am aware of the color change. thanks again.
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Old 04-20-2018, 08:38:01 AM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

The best I have found so far is a late parts book and some research. Some books I have found in the past show some of the details but not all of them on the 10-20. But, I haven't really shopped around much because early on when I started collecting I bought original manuals and parts books. That's where the researchers get most of their info.
Its kind of funny, back then the older parts books were easy to sell and the late parts books were more economical in most cases, the later ones covering way more information on production changes.
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Old 08-12-2018, 02:26:11 PM
smcmanus smcmanus is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

Wow, another "one of those projects!" I finally got it all together and am trying to get it started. Looking for tips. What about the thing on top of the carburetor? How far in or out should it be set? What about the needle valve?? I wish there was a way to hook up a power starter because the blisters on my cranking hand are getting bad. I don't have a good place to tow it around. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:58:11 PM
Rick Gilder Rick Gilder is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

Do you have a belt and another tractor with a belt pulley? Belt it up to another tractor. That's how I got mine started.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:14:58 AM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

Like Rick says, belt starting initially is sometimes the only way other than pull starting. Maybe a local collector could help out, bring an H Farmall and a belt, maybe? Once you are all dialed in it should crank start easily.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:52:52 AM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

ON mine the brass knob is 1 1/2 turns open. make sure the points are clean and you have spark. retarding the spark all the way grounds out spark to stop eng. (not original mag). open throttle 1/3 way, ground spark, choke on full pull crank 2 or 3 times to prime. open choke advance timing to run. about 1/3 over. will usually start on second or third pull. Trying to start it with the choke on it will flood out before I can get around to release the choke. this is why I choke it with the spark off. mine is 1928 on steel. Tom
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:34:48 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

More stupid questions. Not even a pop, so I pulled the carburetor off and was surprised to see that the governor is holding the throttle fully closed. When the engine isn't running and the hand throttle is disconnected, shouldn't the throttle be held wide open by the governor?
Thanks
Steve
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:26:52 PM
Johnny R Johnny R is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

My brother picked up this old /38 10-20 at a tractor wreckers. Done a fair amount of work on it to get it in good shape. Was on steel before he got it, He ended up going with rubber. It didn't have fenders so I built a pair for the tractor. H e wants to take it to a few local fairs.
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Old 08-19-2018, 07:37:56 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

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Originally Posted by smcmanus View Post
More stupid questions. Not even a pop, so I pulled the carburetor off and was surprised to see that the governor is holding the throttle fully closed. When the engine isn't running and the hand throttle is disconnected, shouldn't the throttle be held wide open by the governor?
Thanks
Steve
Is your connection from the governor to the carb correct? I have gotten them meshed together wrong before and had either throttle open or closed.
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Old 08-19-2018, 10:58:55 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

When throttle lever is wide open and eng starts the gov. will keep it from over speeding. half way keeps it at half speed , the lever puts tension on throttle spring and the gov. works against the spring. hook up linkage ang advance throttle and the butterfly should open.
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:59:27 AM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

"another one of 'those' projects!" I finally had time to mess with it some more. I ordered $$ worth of carburetor parts only to find that nothing fit. I talked with the parts "House" and they offered to fix my carb for hundreds more. I called Robert Branson and explained my dilemna. It turns out my carburetor had an oddball fuel bowl which was leftover from earlier days and no new parts fit. He helped me find all the parts I needed to get my carb fixed with the larger fuel bowl at a reasonable price.

To set the float height, i put a cork in the bottom of the assembled fuel bowl, and leveled the bowl in a vise. I used a bottle to gravity feed gas into the strainer. After 2 adjustments of the float arm, the gas flowed in and stopped at the line inside the bowl. Hard to see in the picture, but the gas is right at the line.

I got a couple chuffs hand cranking it. Arm is shot. Will try to pull start it.
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  #33  
Old 03-21-2019, 11:10:54 AM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

The carburetor is back apart. It leaked fuel and it would drain right down the air tube and flood the engine. At the top of the air tube, the larger of the 2 small tubes, had cracks down to the top of that big brass assembly, and fuel was trickling through the cracks.

What will interchange? I purchased a carb on-line which appeared identical. Turns out it was larger in every dimension and was stamped 15-3O. Anyone need one?

Anyone have a good air tube nut for a 1O-2O?

Thanks
Steve
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  #34  
Old 03-21-2019, 02:31:33 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

I have one if you don't find any, but im short on the lower tube.
That smaller tube should be above your fuel level or else it will do the same thing, a friend is having similar trouble with an 8-16 carb.
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:39:05 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

3 carburetors later and I finally have one that works! The carb that came on the tractor had the oddball smaller fuel bowl. The fuel strainer is shorter and smaller, the float pin is smaller in diameter, the needle and seat has the same threads, but is smaller than the new ones available. It also appears that the fuel bowl is slightly shorter, and the new air tube was too long when using the original brass nut jet thingy. See first pic, smaller fuel bowl in front.

I had the carburetor apart at least twenty times trying to get it not to flood. The new float was apparently a little wonky and was not closing the needle completely. It turns out that the line in the bowl is way too high for the fuel level. Fortunately -?- the float fell off the arm due to poor solder job which gave me the opportunity to solder it back together in a more useful form and now it works. The float only moves about an eighth of an inch from bottom of bowl to needle closed.

Final result is original throttle base, parts carb gave up the swirl chamber which had a better choke, and fuel bowl strainer, needle and seat are all from vendors. Seems to work OK!
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Old 03-31-2019, 01:06:34 PM
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 10-20 Project

My buddy Ken come over with his truck which we used to back the tractor up, and my trusty rusty truck was used for pull start. I'm on top of a mountain so I have very little level space to play with. After 1 try it started and quit after about thirty seconds. We tried again with no luck, in fact the engine wouldn't spin. It was very stiff hand cranking. Perplexed I considered all the worst case scenarios.

I pulled the plugs thinking of hydro-lock but the plugs were dry. Without much thought I shot 3 bursts of oil into each cylinder and hank cranked and everything was right with the world! I guess sitting for a year during the wettest year in history here in KY had caused those nice clean cylinder walls and shiny new iron rings to rust up a bit.

A few more tries to get the mixture right and......! https://video.flex1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/...42&oe=5CA10E49
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