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Twin City Small Tractors. "On a WHIM"
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Re: Twin City Small Tractors. "On a WHIM"
I don't use thermostats as we run them mostly in the summer and they warm up pretty quickly july/august in Kansas. If I ever need to its the ol cardboard on the rad method.
Re: Twin City Small Tractors. "On a WHIM"
10 hours wheel time yester. The ol’ Chevrolet pickup was a real trooper.
1st stop: Stopped and had breakfast in Hector. Just missed an old friend there at Pete’s Place. His pickup should be just down the street, the lady said. Twas.
Turned into a parking spot as I touched the window down and smiled at the old friend.
We Baloney’d for a good spell and got to see the shop after carrying the 2 parts inside. Haha! For Old 2.
Cooler than Lake Superior, his shop is... If he had any feathers in there, just one of them could’ve tipped me completely over! Very cool.
Next stop: Oop, finish your thing: The grinder was resurfacing a V-8 block head mount surface as I walked in his shop and I backed off after a short introduction.
Mr Cory is such a gentleman! Maw and I had a real nice conversation with that very busy man!
His son is a gentleman as well.
Mr Cory spent an hour with us!
2‘s replacement block, crank, rods, pistons and cylinders are in line for rebuild!
Hehehe. He’ll make that ol’ engine new again. Hehehe. Too cool. Short block!
Should have just brought 2‘s original heads and valve train too for a long block fix.
You will not believe the replacement clutch facings I’ve chosen. Never. Very simple when the gentleman lays out the catalog in front of ya.
IF I had my head on square, I would’ve ordered brake linings for Jay but didn’t think ahead.
Young fellows that may happen to read this: Do you have interest in resurrecting ancient engines for others?
Please keep a “dying art” alive. Please. Too much more to say.
Stopped in Willmar for a ball game on the way back. A grandson plays almost like he’s pro. He’s 8.
Great yet LONG day. Thank goodness Maw did most of the driving.
Have no cool pics at all yet the things I saw. At all.
Modine 21-32 radiator batches.
Fun stuff for me. I was just tickled out in the little shop tonight.
Glad I messed around with radiators again tonight in between Maw's fire. Maw sits in here with me right now. We had another good evening again, burning and lopping, lopping and burning a couple of trees cut down lately to clean up the mess.
Nice break from the TC madness since June 9th and the interludes last Wednesday and Friday.
All amped up last night until WAY too late. Lost extended babble typed out. Good.
A fan shroud screw actually came loose when putzing last night.
AC back in the little shop, recut the existing hole in the wall twice... 100% humidity, warm and horrible skeeto’s right now and then working on rad’s... cool.
I missed the TC’s bad. 2
Still wrapping my head around 2 being out here in the yard and the implications of his presence.
Yes, cover is coming for 2 and his cousins. Sheesh,
Messed around with radiators, working on pulling 2‘s FT-7C RH side frame to get it to welding for a couple of breaks.
Already up to the C series rad supports and parts since the 383 engine’s introduction in ‘26 or so, eh?
Back at it. Seems 11433 is a radiator series number for Modine.
1 The left pic. 2's radiator. We see 34 and 11433.
Richard grabbed a new Modine core out of the pile, the first of how many?? of this batch, assembled a heavy radiator assy for the new tractors and went about his business. Core number 34 went on 2.
2 The right pic. 1217's radiator. We see 1079 and 11433.
Here's #1079 rad core that ended up on #1217 in 1929 yet. 1079's cores are scaled so bloody full so still thinking of another grand opportunity offered.
Interesting notions for me.
Last edited by Duey C; 07-03-2019 at 01:42:46 AM.
21-32 transmission input shaft bits.
Corrections. Jump back to post 308 on page 16 if interested. I hinted about my affection for Fairbanks-Morse engines yet called them F-B engines.
Should’ve read F-M engines. Did that twice. Good engines.
ALSO! I hinted the little Jay is already a Visionline tractor. I thought I saw an advert but after saying that I rethought and decided I was incorrect since I could not find the advert...
Let’s try this: The last, smallest Twin City production tractor and ALMOST a Visionline series tractor! That would happen in just a couple of years with the Z.
Do I have that right?
That keeps me out of trouble with the Y twin too and I know just about zero about how he was badged.
Hahaha! Just realized this! I have a tiny little “tractor” powered by two, Y series Briggs and Stratton engines that I deemed the Twin Y years ago. I set the throws together so it runs like an IH Titan...
Stopped radiator bits for a few hours and sorted the input shaft.
Had the FT273A transmission input shaft and Gurney/SKF 310 bearing in a plastic coffee “can” of Rudolph Diesel since May with the gear down. (I ASSume A series input shaft as the B series starts at 150802) and I wish I knew the differences. Gee Duane, yank the engine on tractor #1217 (#151520), set that poor old water stopped engine aside, pull the clutch that you want to see anyway, pull the input shaft and compare Huh? For myself and the one guy that may be truly interested down the road.
I wish to grab an oil line from 1217 for 2 anyway. 15 for 2? NO, not Cribbage.
2‘s rad’s on the table in the little shop and have been breaking bolts for side frames.
Funky, the lower rad bolts mostly came apart whilst the uppers mostly twist off. Western ND or Montana tractor. Tony saw what he really was perhaps and grabbed him thankfully. 2 should be running late this year or next year. I need a Go-Pro or whatever the hell they are so I can post a video when the time comes.
For the upper rad tank bolts can we say Acid rain? Worked good to set things awful tight.
1217‘s rad bolts are easier going. MN tractor. Get the top tank off 1217 and see if the scale is stuck like 2‘s rad core next.
IMPORTANT: I’ve learned within the last few years that soaking in Diesel is no promise of a rust deterrent! Ask about Galion Motor Grader fuel tank suction strainer assemblies that stand in Diesel. Bad after 66 years. Don’t ask else I show. What a mess.
Rust will readily happen inside a Diesel bath!
Beneath The Surface (a great album from Balligomingo) of the Diesel in the can, the top of the FT97 bearing and retainer ring FT149, (the bearing cage cover) had a rusty layer on top when I looked! $#!+. Pulled it out, got me gloves on and started toothbrushing the rust off. It all came off readily. Thank goodness. WAY worse words were thought. So embarrassed about the surface rust, I took NO pics. Got it all brushed clean.
The Gurney 310 bearing is quite clean and smooth otherwise. The small hitch is gone.
OK, started laying grease in the bearing, pushed it down, repeated ad-nauseum until full.
1 4607 Cute little bolts: It all needs to slide apart a little when taking it apart to get the bolts OUT.
Same way putting these cute little bolts back IN when re-assembling the cover/FT149 retainer ring.
The old Gurney bearing is a slide fit in the cage (tight on the shaft) and is held fast by the cover/retainer ring and cute little bolts. The bearing never moved an inch in the cage. The name/numbers transferred to the cage. In mirror form in the cage, of course.
2 5525 All together, stuffed full of grease and wired up. Might re-do the .032 wires as they’re not as tight as I’d like. Techniques to re-learn.
See the slight gap straight ahead between the cover/retainer ring bolts? Just squashing the bearing into the cage and holding it fast. Should rip it all apart to file the head of one of the little bolts so a 7/16 works on it again. I'll say it again: Something went thru there at speed.
Skid loader is getting closer to perfect again. Need him always. The old Gehl 4510 has enough fuel again. Installed a new electric pump I had up on the piano to move fuel as I figured the ONLY 36 year old mechanical fuel pump was tired. Yep, sure was. Can hardly find the pump down in the engine compartment. That 36 year old loader loves to give me fits. I'll get you my pretty!
On to the distributor next, AGAIN. Good fire but misses. Loose upper bushing. Starts readily and runs tho.
I don’t like the Turkish genuine Bosch condensers. They suck and can fail right away...
3 4112 That big old Gurney 310 bearing has some clearance. About 10 inches from the center of the bearing.
I found about .128“ “wiggle’. Too much? Could not find any straight/true radial looseness/sagging.
I did loosen the felt in it’s seal bore also. That poor felt has been leaking grease since ‘29 or ‘30. Replacement is a 9/16“ X 9/16“ X 7-1/8“. Nope. The easiest escape for the grease is into the transmission case.
Oh! The soak in the Diesel took care of the soft hitch on a slow turn of the bearing! Used my prized dental tools, Mini Maglight flashlight in my pocket and closely inspected the bearing, removing a couple of hairs from the toothbrush plus a little schmutz. A few specs of rust in the outer race that are stuck but not any hindrance.
4 5248 Completely inconclusive. Can’t keep the built-in roll effect of the million turns big Gurney ball bearing in check.
Might yet test for longitudinal/backy-forthy movement inside the bearing. Bet there’s about none.
Nice bearing. Affordable enough for a replacement IF I have it right...
85 bucks but then The Gurney is destroyed getting it off.
Nope. He’ll roll some more until he needs... I’ll listen to him.
No appreciable sag at the rear of the transmission input shaft nor the bushing in the flywheel to help wear out the Bell Ringing slots in the clutch drive plate. Remember those pics? Just a million turns or more under load. It is nice the new, clean holes are already in the clutch drive from the factory.
On purpose? AT 6 hole parts? Study...
Radiator weights. 21-32 plus
All this mindless babble for 3 lousy pics at the end? Yep. It is what it is.
Thought what the hey, I’m gonna babble this trivial bit. It’s been odd man-handling 1217‘s or MeAndMaw-handling 2‘s rad out in the little shop. No wonder, the dang things weigh about 130 lbs.
15 for side frames, 35 for the lower tank, 29 for the top tank, 46 for the core plus 5 for the three flats, hardware and scale inside 1217. Give or take 10 for rust loss, rusty-scale weight inaccuracies and Grandma Mabel’s old “bathroom” scale. It’s quite reliable each time yet may be 2 lbs over.
Perhaps the computer scale at work is 2 lbs under.
Next: Hose and pressure washer were out for the cores and the old pickup. Blew 7 bucks on the best car wash in town and he looked like a damned Zebra! Pickup was very dirty with caked on from road construction and gravel roads. More to do as he should look respectable.
Have two cores out in the yard leaning up against 2‘s rear tires still on 2. Hang on with that business...
Washed the cores off/out best I could at the moment. More to come there.
Gear change: Son was here and nabbed the skid loader to level his new swimming pool. He hung the “new” ‘68 Catalina rag-top replacement frame from Ohio down in the trees to liberate his trailer whilst I washed things up here. Had the frame blasted and polyester coated satin black at my work for a paltry sum overall compared to out east. Beautiful. Just beautiful. The painter was tickled to work on something different! No, don’t grind off the weld spatter. It’s original to a ‘67 Bonneville if I remember.
Anyhow: Skid loader is NOT in the building! Son was snooping and suggested an old piece of chromed pump/hydraulic cylinder shaft out in the shop for a pounding extension for 2‘s new rear duals to try to drive the axles out as they stand around and wait for SOMETHING to happen.
I guess we think alike... Smart man. Always outside the box and I was having a long term brain fart. Shoot, he cuts his grass with an early 70‘s Wheel Horse! Loves it!
I can simply raise the garage door and walk right to the lathe and sit down with the stool I just transplanted there and cut with the loader missing.
Turned the existing 1-1/4“ part on one end down to 1“ and will thread it 1“- 8 in the coming days so the pounding extension can be screwed into the axle shaft and I can pound on it until I wreck the extension, the hubs and/or start to move the shafts. Think good thoughts, would you? I need a bigger sledge hammer.
Godson sent a video (they suck over the phones) of 4014 down in Owatonna, MN! He went down there to see!
I gotta pay more attention to the Big Boy’s movements. Too dang busy right now with old tractors and what-not under this rock but wish to see with my own eyes!
Even playing again with the round oil filter base for 2 as heat and time permits. Quite warm here and suffer. Gotta check/clean/touch up/regrind (gently) the ball seat for the overall pressure ball inside the round filter assy. That ball dumps oil back to the regular flow to the engine if the filter gets plugged. That ball, seat and spring are very important for a lot of years of TC/MM engines. Darned thing looks to have a Tri-Point seat for the ball! More to that too. Find the correct size and order a diamond impregnated touch-up/grinding ball from precisionballs dot com? Thinking hard on that.
Cozy little shop has AC after all. Let’s play with something. Much to do. Obviously the two rads are all apart for inspection.
Any clue whether I really have the last remaining NOS FE7066 overall filter assy pressure ball spring in the US? I’ll look back to see IF I posted enough details about that very important spring I got out of Nebraska at Foland’s.
1. 2104 The cores as they wait more cleaning and further inspection. 2's has cracked headers and a couple of owees. 1217's has a minor owee. We'll see.
2. 1105 Sure looks like that 1911 South Bend lathe is movin’ fast! It isn’t. A couple hundred rpm’s at the very best.
3. 4139 Even slower rpm’s here. I tried to file them off on a reverse or a during a cut: See the light marks that seem to run opposite the real threads? Oh yeah, I tried to make the axle pounder left hand threads first...
C.B.S. Cooked Brain Syndrome. A bit warm up here, cooked it hard last year at the show and again this week.
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