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Will this work?


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  #1  
Old 08-22-2019, 02:13:42 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Question Will this work?

Not sure where to put this, so here goes: My I-R 3R-36 met with an accident when a stupid woman driver decided to fit her small car between my Suburban and another truck, in a line of trafic. Only problem - my trailer with the radial compressor on it already was in the space she tried to fit in. Result: bent wheel and folded fender on the right side of the trailer and the impact sent the compressor partially over the left side trailer rail. The rail JUST fit between the compressor fuel tank and the compressor side intake manifold, flattening one of the nearly 1" diameter copper intake runners.

My question is - How do I unflatten the runner? It cannot be replaced, parts for the 3R-36 are NLA. My idea is to plug the runner, fill it with water and wrap dry ice around the flatenned area and hope the ice will expand the tube open. I know, if it works, it will take quite a few freeze and melt cycles to open it, but do you guys and gals here on the Stak think it will work, or am I just wasting my time on the idea? Any other thoughts on how to repair this? The flattened area is on a curve in the tube, and the ends are not round to set a ball down the tube to open it back up. Thanks for your help,
Andrew
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:24:19 PM
uglyblue66 uglyblue66 is offline
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Default Re: Will this work?

In the past I have saw where people brazed copper with copper wire and ground it down smooth and never see the joints. What I am wondering is could you use the stud welding method? Braze some copper wire to the tube and then pull the "stud" with a dent puller? It will never be perfect but you may be to open up the tube so air can flow.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:30:35 PM
mcostello mcostello is offline
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Default Re: Will this work?

On the show "How it's Made" they show a ball bearing being pushed through a brass tube from a musical instrument. Might look it up for hints.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:49:38 PM
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Default Re: Will this work?

Any Pictures Of It ???

Just wondering what kind of pressure it needs to hold and how much it may already be weakened, not to mention how much weaker it will be by reworking it.

Can you cut out the flattened area and solder in a splice replacing it ?

Or Fabricate a Whole New Manifold using the original mounting flanges ?

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Old 08-22-2019, 03:26:33 PM
Greg Mosley Greg Mosley is offline
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Default Re: Will this work?

Greetings AM, Anneal the damaged area so it becomes more malleable. I don't like to assume anything, is the manifold made up of many sections? If so take it apart and work out the mashed area from the inside. Then sweat it back together. You may have to use a bit of ingenuity and fab some tools to get the job done. Enuf Said
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Old 08-22-2019, 03:50:21 PM
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Default Re: Will this work?

I agree with Greg. Anneal first to reduce possibility of cracking. Repair should be OK since it is intake manifold. Only atmospheric pressure to slight negative pressure.

What about driver's insurance? They are responsible for restoring everything to "pre- accident condition". Since it is not your dime, maybe you farm out the trailer to a body shop and the manifold to an antique restoration shop.

Hopefully the hitch on your old 'burb did not get misaligned.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:39:16 PM
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Default Re: Will this work?

Do a test first. I've done it with good results.

Get a piece of similar tubing and smash it to resemble whacha have that's damaged. Cap it and pressurize it with air to whatever 100+ psi you have. Now gently heat a damaged area and let the pressure push it back out. The key is to heat it juuust enough to weaken it to the point that it'll expand then get the torch out fast.

As it's copper you'll probably have to get it red to soften it enough to move. It's worth a try and kinda fun flirtin with disaster on it. If it works, go to the real part.

edit:
waiting for the safety nazi's to chime in.
of course they have never done it.
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Old 08-23-2019, 01:45:02 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: Will this work?

Thanks for the replies. The tubing on the manifold seems to be a heavy grade - perhaps equal to plumbers K tubing. It is not 1" nor 11/2" OD, although air conditioning tubing may be close. Seems to be propietary to IR. One end is round (the end that attaches to the engine), the other is oval and is within the engie/compressor intake assembly. All connections are brazed, so it cannot be taken apart. The 3 branch manifold assembly also is the fuel tank mount and support. As only one end of the runner is round, getting a ball in to open the runner may be OK, but geting it back out will definately be problematic, as the flattened section id on about a 45 degree radiused curve in the tubing. There is no straight shot, either going in or coming out. Where the runner meets the air filter mount, there is an openning about 21/2" in diameter, with ate air filter mount cross bar across the bore. The runners are brazed into this mount from the side - no way to get a direct shot at the tube interior, nor a way to seal it. (BOO-HISS). i suppose I could try and cut in a window, but that will structurally compromise the fuel tank support if i cant match the diameter of the runner.
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Old 08-23-2019, 04:17:43 PM
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Default Re: Will this work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Power View Post
.... Repair should be OK since it is intake manifold. Only atmospheric pressure to slight negative pressure.
Duh.

How Did I MISS THAT ^ part.

Good Catch Power.

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Old 08-23-2019, 05:43:15 PM
Pete Spaco Pete Spaco is offline
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Default Re: Will this work?

I like the ball bearing idea. The first one doesn't have to be the exact size of the bore. Followed up by enough of them to act as pushers. Maybe just a bit bigger than the smallest dimension of smashed area. Then a slightly bigger one followed by the same or slightly larger pushers. Yes, as mentioned, anneal first. A dim glow should be enough. It would be good to use a pretty good heat source so you don't spend a lot of time in the area to anneal.

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