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Scale Model Engineering Steam, gas and hot air model engines, tractors, trains and accessories. Machining and milling castings.

Scale Model Engineering

1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model


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  #21  
Old 07-24-2019, 12:28:02 PM
Johann1 Johann1 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

Thank you for the advice B7100 I will take that into consideration.

I was taking a look at the engine today to remember what was done with it. The clutch mechanism is pretty far build the only thing left to be built on it is the shoes-arms to grip onto the Belt Drive. The eccentric to run the D-Valve is completed and so is part of the linkage for it. Then the engine frame itself is done so is the flywheel. The one problem with the engine frame though is that it is slightly crooked so that would need to be straightened. For the most part the original owner did a great job especially for what tools he had which were hand crank drills, angle grinders-chop saws, a torch, and later on a welder. So asking all of you should I just completely start the engine from scratch or continue building it as is.

Thanks Johann
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  #22  
Old 07-24-2019, 12:32:51 PM
Johann1 Johann1 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

Sorry I forgot to post photos of the engine.
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2019, 01:56:35 PM
Johann1 Johann1 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

Any thoughts on what to do with the engine part of the tractor?
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  #24  
Old 08-05-2019, 02:11:54 PM
Big Bird Big Bird is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

I would try to set it back in place to see if you can get it lined up first... then go from there...
If every thing line's up try to use what you have.
Otherwise drop some cash on a set of castings and start from scratch... It all depends on how much$$$ money you want to spend....
Spend the time or spend the dough....
But whatever you do.... keep on posting you progress....
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  #25  
Old 08-05-2019, 10:09:02 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

You might want to check the overall condition of the engine. How is the bore, bearings, slide valve and the like before making a decision. It takes a lot of machining and $$$ to start from scratch. Maybe salvage what you can from what you have. It's hard looking at the pictures to see what may be useable. To invest a lot in castings to have a nice engine on a marginal boiler might not be the best option.
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2019, 10:44:07 AM
Johann1 Johann1 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

Im not quite sure weather I want to spend a whole load of money on castings yet, or that I should continue current production on it. If I did buy castings though it would be like what you said a nice engine on a marginal boiler which I agree isn't the best option.

But by any means I don't have intentions for this to be a complete 100% replica though, but I would like it to resemble-look like a average 1/3 Case steam tractor and not a 10 minute cobble together.

Thanks Johann
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2019, 10:52:20 AM
Johann1 Johann1 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

I Just got back from the Forest City Threshing show and while I was their I was taking a look at the Case steam engine their and how the reversing gear works for the eccentric. It appears that all that changes the timing is a block that is on a pivot with a groove in it for the eccentric to run in then when they pull a lever it pivots that block and the engine runs in a different direction.

Which led me to take a look at my engine and It appears the original builder had already started building a bracket for the Reversing Gear. All that needs done is to make that pivot block for the reversing gear.

Thanks Johann
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  #28  
Old 08-19-2019, 12:17:09 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

You are correct in how the reversing mechanism works. The location of the pivot point of that block is very important in getting the correct timing. It needs to be exactly straight up from the krankshaft and at a height so that you have equal travel of the valve in both directions. Do some studying on valve adjustment.
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  #29  
Old 09-02-2019, 04:24:58 PM
Johann1 Johann1 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

Hey everybody I have just got back from Rollag today and it was great. While I was their I was taking notes on other model Case steam engines and I noticed what stuff still needs done on mine. One question I have is that the clamps on my engine that are holding down the crank shaft are just steel on cast iron so I will probably need to redo those clamps on my engine and put bronze-brass in them. But then when I got to the part on deciding lubrication for those clamps I was thinking couldn't I just use that little oil with with a cap on it and put a grease fitting in their instead?

Thanks Johann
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  #30  
Old 09-02-2019, 09:04:06 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case 65hp Steam Traction Model

I'm not sure what is meant by clamps. On my 3d scale Case the crank runs on babbit bearings. The crosshead and rod bearings are bronze (not brass). Cast iron on steel is OK for slow turning parts (like wheels). Any bearings need to be fitted. Babbit needs to be scraped. Bronze and cast iron need to be lapped in. Use only time saver lapping compound. Regular (like valve grinding compound ) might seize or embed causing damage. Any shaft turned in a lathe or bearing bored will not be perfectly round. Lapping a bearing in with time saver lapping compound will make a perfect fit with just enough clearance for oil. Wheels with cast iron on steel will turn like ball bearings. If you want a more maintenence free less authentic engine use ball bearings. They too need to have the right fit to prevent either spinning or overheating. I chose oil over grease for lube only because it is less messy. My oil/grease cups have either 1/4" 28 or 1/8" pipe threads so I can swap them out for grease zerts if I need to. Time saver is availiable in different grits. Yellow is for bronze/babbit. Green is for cast iron/steel. It breaks down and will not embed in the metal.
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