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1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia


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  #21  
Old 08-22-2016, 09:56:19 AM
Casemaker Casemaker is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

So is your dog !
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:16:21 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

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So is your dog !
Making a little progress , will slow up again shortly . Work some and travel . Hope to have some steam picks from travels . I used mill drill 3phase again like I did for the throat . I cut the frequency to 25 hertz on the vfd, but it was to much motor heated up very fast , at that slow speed . I went back to 30 hertz and spent the better part of a day trimming the stack ,taking a lot of breaks but I'm not a production shop, and if I didn't have a ton of other things to do on the case , my other stuff could keep me busy in between. My first casting done for the case! that was last week today I got the boiler ends in the mill/drill , ( I couldn't get them in the R8 belt drive visible in the background , like I could the fire box , because of height . The mill/drill had height to spare, and it was a lot happier running the carbide cutter at 50/60 hertz. somtime when I get my courage up I'll try going above rated frequency! Looking ahead I have been marking the shell and reading Ralphs book he says to bore the exhaust hole 6" from the end (same as stack) and 11/16 above c.l.. When I scaled the reduction plans I have it scales 11/16 which would be 1-3/8" inches above c.l. . I took a quick look at reduction sht 10 , pre-heater but didn't resolve it quickly . Any help?
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  #23  
Old 08-26-2016, 08:25:21 AM
chrsbrbnk chrsbrbnk is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

the reduction plans are not real good the preheater needs to be level and the distance from the bottom of the engine vlv body ( mounted on the engine ) and the avaliable iron on the casting for the end caps of th epreheqater determine the hole location . that said on mine with a 10 in pipe they didn't work out at all so I fabed up my own end caps
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  #24  
Old 09-14-2016, 08:16:55 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

My wife and I have been visiting our son and his wife in Oz (Australia) . Last year during Fleet Week,in San Francisco I met a " Bloke" named Bruce in the engine room of SS Jeremiah Obrien ( a World War II Victory ship with triple exp recip which was where James Camerons Titanic engine room scene was filmed ) Bruce travels every year to help with the cruise. I asked him about other functioning steam vessesl, they have a few in Oz at Sydney Heritage Fleet . Pics are Waratah tug heads, looking down waratah valve gear , Lady hopetoun Valve gear ( very cramped engine room ,only about 4 foot high,hard to get at good pic)and heads of Lady Hopetoun , which has the high pressure cylinder in the middle an apparently unusual configuration
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  #25  
Old 09-14-2016, 08:28:06 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

Some more pics from my trip. A San Francisco Standard hit and miss marine engine the blokes from Sydney Heritage Museum had to make patterns for and re-cast both the cylinder and the head. A visit to my my sons lab at UNSW .this is an STM which allows the placement of a single atom of phosphorus in a block of silicon in his research to try and build a quantum computer . Pretty big leap in technology between these pics.
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:01:09 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

I just got done installing my heat exchanger. The hole drilled for the exhaust was a little high. I had to die grind about 1/4" on the bittom of the hole to get it level. (My barrell od is 9 5/8) The flange on the front heat exchanber casting covered the hole ok. I would suggest that you drill a smaller hole at the print location and enlarge it when you install the heat exchanger. That would give you a little extra room to play with.
One other thing I ran into is that there in no inlet on the right side of the boiler that the injector would feed into on the print or in the book. I have noticed this on the full sizs engines and a lot of scale models. I am going to have to plumb into a cross fitting on the back heat exchanger outlet, i don't know if that will cause any problems down the road.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:07:00 AM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

Its going to be a few days before I get back to the case , I have a few fires to put out that happened while we were in Oz. I am going to wait until I have the assembled heat exchanger in hand to bore a hole . I can do a good job with a Milwaukee hole saw ,relief holes and a cool mist sprayer. I wonder though about adding a bushing on the right side , that won't be easy later . What location " What size threads?
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  #28  
Old 09-16-2016, 09:33:52 AM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

The exhaust from the heat exchanger has to be centered on the stack. It might be easier while you are laying out everything to at least make a reference point to go by when you go to install the heat exchanger.
As for the inlet on the right side the print shows 1/4 npt on the inlet from the heat exchanger. I would assume that would be adequate. Location i don't see as being critical. Google pictures of the full size engines for general location. You just have to be able to get the plumbing from the injector to it. Again this my thoughts. If anyone can make a contribution here feel free to do so.
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  #29  
Old 09-17-2016, 06:37:34 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

I talked to Oldiesteam today. He reminded me about the importance of cleanouts. The print does not have enough in the right places. He mentioned that when he retubed his boiler the bottom tubes were covered with gunk rendering them useless. So at least one in the bottom of the barrell. Maybe someone with some more experience could advise you as to the locations. I have one on each corner of the firebox and toward the front of the boiler. Some of the ones in the firebox may be hard to get at when the bunkers go on.
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  #30  
Old 09-17-2016, 06:55:27 PM
butch vollmar butch vollmar is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

It would be nice if the cleanout in the barrel front is big enough to get the tubes out if retubeing is ever required. This also gives you room to get a hose or power washer in there to clean out the barrel.
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  #31  
Old 09-18-2016, 01:09:36 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

I put a copper ring around one of the bottom boilertubes in the smokebox end. Wnen the tubes need replaced they can be cut and slid out this larger opening. There is no way to put a cleanout in where you can slide the tubes through that I know of.
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Old 10-20-2016, 01:06:35 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

I upgraded my lathe to Jet 1340 with 18" gap that is a huge improvement over what I had . I built a carriage stop out of some aluminum stock and a threaded scale that I had that I have no idea what it came off of. I need to add a pointer. I would like to add a carriage shut off switch if anyone knows of a make/model of switch . I finally got back to boring the flue holes in my mill/drill which had been sitting since before going to oz. ( yes there are 2 holes that don't belong in the flue sheet due to faulty bolt down layout for the flanging die!) The cross travel on the mill/drill ( I believe that's the Z axis) is not big enough so I had to drill/bore half and then flip over and do the rest .
I am getting used to the cheap dro set I have and it very helpful changing back and forth with drill bits and boring head! I bought a cheap mister (like $20) on ebay . The only source here for fluid only has 5 gallons and I am trying to avoid hazmat shipping . I made up my own fluid 1 cup soluble oil and 1qt propelyne glycol / gal . Anybody have other formulas ?
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  #33  
Old 10-20-2016, 06:45:35 PM
b7100 b7100 is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

Just as a belated sugestioun - I stacked the smokbox and firebox fluesheets and drilled and bored them together. Anytime you can do that it is faster, more apt to be accurate and requires less layout time. Noticed your lathe has t-slots on the cross slide. That will come in handy when you line bore the engine frame and cylinder. With your lathe capacity you should be able to do all the lathe work on thes project. A bridgeport type mill would be a nice addition to your shop.
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  #34  
Old 10-21-2016, 09:46:15 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

Absolutely got the idea to stack them from your(b7100) photos, the large pins are in holes to hold the two parts together partly because of the limited room on the table of the mill/drill for hold downs. the record you left is invaluable to me thanks I should have posted a little wider view .
Last night my wife and I traveled to Sacramento Ca to see Jimmy Buffet concert at the brand new Golden 1 Center. We got up early this morning to head home and to avoid the commute on I80/680 we let Google Map take us around . AS we passed 8900 Grant Line Rd in Elk Grove ( cor of Aleilani ln) I noticed what appeared to be a private collection including this case. The property is for sale and I don't know how long this one may stay at this site , but It is easy place for me to visit and look at the real deal.
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  #35  
Old 10-23-2016, 10:07:13 AM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

.[/QUOTE]

I have been thinking about the discussion of drains in the shell/tube and I wonder if putting a small plug between the two lowest flues , to allow a pressure washer nozzle to flush the bottom back towards the fire box would help. I placed a washer in the picture . Thoughts ?

I'm probably not the first guy to come up with this soft hammer idea. When I was pouring flanging hammers , I spotted some left over "Tees" from a still project that I had done a while ago . ( check out " How to build a world class still.com") I clamped a couple of small plates over copper t and poured lead down the middle hole and epoxied broom handles on .
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  #36  
Old 10-23-2016, 10:51:37 AM
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

It would be ideal if you could put a cleanout there but I don't think there would be enough room. Remember that you need room to flange the flues. There is just barely enough room to flange the outside flues where they are next to the flange. I put a cleanout just behind the front axle bracket in the bottom of the barrel. After the flues are installed then see if there is enough room to put a small plug in that spot. Hammar idea looks good but with the lead I am using they tend to get mushed over real fast and have to be repoured. McMasters car has a real good system for lead hammers. They have the molds, handles, and the right metal alloy for the job if you have the $.
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Old 11-13-2016, 10:24:43 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

My long time neighbor Roy has been getting down to my shop a little this week in a power chair that I was able to obtain for him . Roy spent over 20 years here in the SC mountains at Lockheeds facility and many of the satellites Roy's finger prints are on are still functioning in space, including the Hubble telescope. Roy has been helping with pointers from his living room but its great to have him in the shop.
I am working on the steam dome and I am following b7100 making the entire top long enough to be welded on the tube . Certainly a lot of steel chips from all this boring!
I am also working on building a radius attachment to turn the radius on the dome and later to get the weights for the governor . that will use the hole for the compound rest on the lathe. Multiple holes will allow rough adjustment of radius. The vertical piece needs to be drilled and tapped to bolt to the base, then when the dome is out of the lathe I can bolt the radius attachment onto the lathe and bore a 3/4" hole that will hold boring bars with set screws . I haven't gotten far enough to figure out how I can do a really slick job of fine adjusting the radius . The aluminum was from my scrap pile which accounts for some of the extra holes and the radius on the vertical.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:10:34 AM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

Here's a pic of my homemade radius attachment in action. It probably won't make the cut for something where real accuracy is needed but it worked great for me . I need to grind a cutter specifically for it , here i'm using a carbide boring bar and I'm running it upside down with the lathe turning in reverse to get closer to the shoulder on the steam dome.
The other pic I took so I could send to b7100 for his input .It is a practice piece for the 11/24 needed on the boiler drains. I haven't turned a thread on a lathe for over 50years when I was in Ivan Buckners SCHS shop .What an incredible guy he was !
I am thinking about what an incredible machine the I phone is. Most of my life I like my dad have taken pictures with a quality 35mm camera . My dad was in the Army Air Corp from the time the earliest vacuum tube radios took flight and lived long enough to see the first solid state micro circuits. He couldn't have imagined that my I phone could auto-focus this close ,which at its best a 35 would need help from an add on close up attachment to do. ( I keep the phone in my back pocket and haven't cleaned that little lens since it was new 2 years ago)and instantly send it anywhere ! I'm sure I could find some 35mm film for my camera , but I would have to go and Look!
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:09:49 AM
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

I decided to try Milwaukee 4" hole saw ( with the mister) for the steam dome. I had used them for the smaller holes in the shell using a variable speed hand drill, but I decided that might be a good way to a broken wrist using something as big as this. Again I used the VFD on the drill/mill and slowed to 30htz (1/2 rated speed)took a couple of minutes so heating of the motor was not an issue. there were some terrible noises coming out midway through the pass ,but it worked great .I was so intent on getting the center drill lined up that I failed to notice that the wrapper was still on the saw and it stayed on all the way through . The paint barely came off , the teeth look like new ,got a very clean hole and a nice tight fit. I am going to try a 5" soon to make the 2-1/2" radius on the engine mount . I wonder if anyone has input on the layout of that radius . I plan to lay it out once before flanging in the throat die, and re check and cut the radius after . Thoughts ? That's a B&D cinch clamp from years ago that I used to help hold the shell in the middle slot of the mill/drill . The shell hangs way over and I only allowed room for one hold down one the very front end of the table.
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Last edited by sjkhouse; 12-22-2016 at 10:17:00 AM. Reason: added content
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Old 03-18-2017, 09:47:00 PM
sjkhouse sjkhouse is offline
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Default Re: 1/3 Case-Reduction Engineering Begining in Califonia

Matt was home from oz on his way to a physics conference . Instead of fooling around with one or two atoms I thought I would let him get involved with the torch and some serious numbers of atoms while I was flanging the engine mount for the case.. I wasn't sure how to do the layout for the mount considering the issue of the steel stretching around the die. I just went for it and took the best shot I could. Because the mill/drill has a mt3 taper I was able to preset the boring bar and the boring head to use as a fly cutter with the cross feed (using my lathe) scale to the outer diameter of tube(9.5") .I set up the center of the boiler by backing down the distance between the boiler center line and the engine center line which I computed (10.875") on a line I had scribed on the steel between the 2 centers. To get a clean cut on the flange I had to advance back toward the engine .050", then when I was done cutting the tube radius I used my dro the move the center of the engine ahead the .050" . I cut the radius for the engine mount(around the tube) with the same technique that I used to bore the hole in the throat sheet , slowing the drill/mill down with the vfd to 40 hz.
I don't know what the limit is on Milwaukee brand hole saws for boring through steel plate but score another one for them . These saws are incredible ! I used a 5" to get the 2-1/2" radius for the engine end of the frame ,slowed with the vfd to 30hz (probably 140rpm) used the mister and some relief holes (4ea only on the metal that will be trimmed away might be 2/3 of the total hole) I deliberately left the rapper on this time and it stayed, and the saw is just fine ,ready to make a finish hole in a cabinet if needed. The biggest of these saws available at my home depot is a 6" which I wouldn't hesitate to try on steel. more to follow
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