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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Another Twin City


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  #41  
Old 11-16-2016, 10:34:32 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Russ...the front wheels shouldn't rub on the tractor frame. There are adjustable stops on the front axle that limit the travel of each spindle.
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  #42  
Old 11-17-2016, 09:48:17 AM
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Russ Hamm Russ Hamm is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Mark, Phil and Moline, without you guys i would probably be headed the wrong direction completely as the TC brand is COMPLETELY different in many areas than anything i have worked on so far, much appreciated.
Pulled the radiator off last night, took me two hours without a torch. That center bolt above the starting crank was a challenge as the shrouds would not come off and my bolt cutting options were at the shop 10 miles away. The steel side supports on the core fell right off, i suppose it can be used without them similarly to the McCormick Deerings i have done. Core looks good, uncle Dan must have resealed the top tank as it had later bolts in it and longer. Meanwhile the mice had gotten in it with the inlet and outlet open, not too bad, needs core cleaned.
Removing the starting crank was interesting, for anyone doing this for the first time in the future this is what i found. In the picture the pin is out but you can see the smaller pin started in the center, this went through the front and was bent over a little in the hole throough the center of the shaft forward. The Deerings have a set screw to hold these in.
Hopefully the engine will slide forward this weekend, i did hear a clunk when the pulley is turned, in gear, with the clutch engaged, maybe looking into redrilling three pilot holes like mentioned earlier.
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  #43  
Old 11-17-2016, 03:14:42 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Russ...before you slide the motor ahead remove the gas tank saddle and see if you can isolate the cause of the clunk. The top of the clutch housing and the primary bevel gear set can be seen once it's off. My 17-28 had a clunk also. The clutch pins were OK however the input shaft was clunking back and forth because of a bad bearing. Once the motor is slid ahead the weight of the clutch assembly hangs on the end if the input shaft and can make diagnosis difficult if your problem is in the transmission.

I hadn't really thought of it before but perhaps the reason Twin City used that diagonal drag link on the steering was to keep it out of the reach of the front wheels. I had a McDeering 15-30 and the right front wheel rubbed on the drag link also.
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:54:01 AM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

The engine is out, it was as easy as said. Looks like the clutch disc has already been drilled once and worn out holes again. I found that Adolph must have been plowing in high gear all those years as the high gear pinion is worn more than the low. Uncle Dan said he told him the last years of use were only on the silage blower, Adolph said that tractor could really do a good job on that.
I need to address the governor, tried to get the pin out of the weight bracket with no success yet.
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  #45  
Old 11-23-2016, 02:16:44 PM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Any advice on removing the clutch? I was thinking about
working over the long weekend, haven't checked out the
owners manual for any info just yet, hadn't looked at it much
yet.
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Old 11-23-2016, 03:47:46 PM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

There is a round snap ring on the input shaft just in front of the disc. Pry this out with a screwdriver and the whole assembly should slide off the shaft. You may have to pull out the lock pin and back off the adjusting ring a bit if it is set up fairly tight.
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Old 11-24-2016, 12:36:21 AM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Hi Russ
A couple of what ifs...

If the adjusting ring is stuck the clutch can still be removed after taking out the clutch cross shaft and throw out fork.

If the clutch assembly is stuck on the input shaft the four bolts can be removed from the input shaft bearing retainer and the clutch /input shaft can be removed from the front of the transmission as an assembly. The clutch cross shaft and fork will have to be removed first. Probably a good idea to renew the felt washer oil seal/wiper in the bearing cage and check the condition of the clutch brake lining at this time.
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  #48  
Old 11-24-2016, 09:21:23 AM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Another thing to check is the pedal brake. Makes it hard to speed shift!
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  #49  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:56:55 PM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

We had a long weekend so i was able to build an engine stand, i wanted to leave it out of the frame to work over this winter as i have some front axle and input shaft work ahead. Everything except the mounting bolts i had laying around. After it was up on the stand i was able to really clean out the block well, especially the water passages which had pounds of rust and mouse nests in it.
The input shaft bearing definately needs replaced, i'm going to research all my options but may resort to Mike's repair on his TC thread.
The clutch facings are about 1/8" thick, the splice stapels are long gone and the clutch brake disc is there but a little thinner than 1/8".
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  #50  
Old 11-28-2016, 12:42:29 AM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Russ...Nice job on the engine stand. You'll be glad you took the time to put it together.

That input shaft bearing and primary bevel gear set catch a lot of grief when the tractor is used for extended belt work. They rely solely on external lube being applied by the operator in this mode through the drip oiler on the transmission cover and the grease cup that feeds the bearing cage.
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