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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Another Twin City


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  #31  
Old 11-14-2016, 12:24:56 PM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Went to pull the pan off last night, didn't drop the wishbone.
Reminds me of a 15-30 pan, weightwise. Debating on pulling the engine to clean out everything, inside the frame is mighty crusted over, antique lubricant.
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:13:57 PM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Pull the radiator off the bottom tank casting, remove the 4 bolts from the engine mounts, a fuel line and a couple of linkages and slide it ahead and lift it out. Easy job and doesn't take long. You might need a good chisel to get that antique lube mix off! If they paved roads with that stuff, it would last forever! I must have chiseled off about 100 lbs of that stuff cleaning up the 20-35 TC before Mark got it.
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:18:56 PM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

As Phil said it is one of the easiest motor setups to remove and reinstall.
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:29:46 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Johnson View Post
I must have chiseled off about 100 lbs of that stuff cleaning up the 20-35 TC before Mark got it.
When I stopped at Phil's to get the 20-35 I saw that I had come to soon. Another couple of weeks and the primer coat would have been ready to go on...
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Old 11-15-2016, 01:42:14 AM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

After seeing what you've been finding now that you've got it apart, primer would have been a little premature!!!

Anyway, on my tractors, in most cases, I usually leave the paint in the can on the store shelf!
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:43:07 AM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Thanks for all the info, its a great help. I'll have to think about pulling that engine, i am sure going to reseal the radiator anyway and it looks like we may have some front and rear oil leaks.
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Old 11-15-2016, 11:50:01 AM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

And while you have the engine out, you can have a look at the clutch and see how badly worn the drive peg holes are in the driven disc. Might want to re-locate and drill three new ones or ream and bush the originals if they are very sloppy. Gets rid off the "knocking" noise at idle.

I've seen them so badly worn they look like slots.
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:23:44 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Another Twin City

Russ...here is the pin drive hole issue on the clutch that Phil was referring to. The clutch is not attached to the flywheel. When the engine is slid into place the 3 drive pins on the flywheel slide through the three holes in the clutch assembly and that's it. My neighbor has 2 rough later 17-28's and is trying to assemble a runner. This picture is from one of his tractors. Phil was the supplier of a usable motor shortblock which was badly needed as both engines had sat full of water so long there was nothing left to work with.

While this clutch is the worst I've seen and it looks like total junk it is perfectly reusable simply by redrilling the 3 drive holes in the center disc.
On my 17-28 the holes had been redrilled once already. On a related note the 20-35 / 27-44's are a similar set up except 6 drive pins are used and the clutch unit uses 4 friction discs vs. the 2 used on the 12-20 / 17-28 / 21-32's.

One of the clutch and a couple of my neighbor's defunct engine.
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  #39  
Old 11-16-2016, 09:44:53 AM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

Haven't been able to work on the tractor, this weekend should allow some.
Noticed awhile ago how the front wheel skid rings had cut into the frame over the years, even into the engine mounting bolt nuts. On our McCormick Deering tractors most times they wore into the steering rod on the right side, sometimes into the hollow of the rod.
Also, i don't think the end of the steering gearbox arm should be bent back like this.
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Old 11-16-2016, 09:47:14 AM
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Default Re: Another Twin City

If driving plate holes are worn or plates is cracked on 17-28 or 12-20 a 21-32 plate is the same on early models.
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