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Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard


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  #11  
Old 03-17-2019, 10:56:45 PM
Photon939 Photon939 is offline
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Default Re: Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard

So I have great news and possibly some concerning news.

The great news is that after some cleaning of the points under the distributor cap I was able to get the engine to light off. She sounds good albeit loud. The fan really rips along on this thing and exerts significant force on you standing in front of it. The meters show the generator is producing voltage as well.

I let the engine run for about a minute to mix all the old oil around before dumping it out.

I had to drive about 20 minutes out to a local Autozone distribution hub to find an oil filter that fits this thing (Carquest 85006 was what was in it) along with some fresh coolant, oil, radiator flush and a new fan belt.

Once all the maintenance was done I let it run and really warm up. The engine continued to run fine but I saw some smoke coming off the intake manifold in the middle port. According to my thermal imaging camera this intake port was hitting about 350F while the other two intake ports were cool.

I am not too familiar with engines but this to me says there may be an issue with one or more intake valves allowing hot exhaust back into the intake?

The engine did not seem to reach a normal operating temperature, the main engine block only got up to about 130F with the top radiator hose being warm but not significantly hot. Not sure if this unit is supposed to have a thermostat or not.

Also with the engine running the battery voltage was 16.8v which seems high even for an equalization charge, possible the regulator in the alternator is bad?
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  #12  
Old 03-18-2019, 12:52:06 PM
Zephyr7 Zephyr7 is offline
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Default Re: Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard

Iím not sure about that intake, but it does seem like a problem that itís so much hotter than the other two. Are you SURE that cylinder is firing properly? Iím wondering if itís backfiring due to a timing or ignition issue.

Battery charging voltage is high. You want more around 14v. Youíll need to adjust that down or possible replace the regulator.

Iím not surprised the engine didnít reach operating temperature in that amount of time with no load. Thatís not a problem. And generator fans tend to be pretty powerful, so no surprise it tried to blow you away

Bill
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2019, 01:25:20 PM
Birken Vogt Birken Vogt is offline
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Default Re: Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard

On old car engines and such they had either water or exhaust gas to heat the intake near the area of the carburetor.

There is no way bad valves would cause this much heat. The minor back leakage could never overcome the hurricane of cool air coming into the cylinders.

This is some kind of intentional heating by some part of the engine.
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:54:37 PM
Vanman Vanman is offline
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Default Re: Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard

In fact, I'd say the center isn't an intake port at all. Forward two cylinders on the forward port, rear two on the rear. Center is likely tied to the exhaust for carb heat, as mentioned above.
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Old 03-18-2019, 11:00:39 PM
Photon939 Photon939 is offline
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Default Re: Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard

Thanks for the responses, I am glad that this is in fact a feature and not a problem with the engine.

So my next steps will be to investigate the thermostat and alternator regulator. Since this generator seems to be a barebones model I ordered some automotive gauges for the control panel. I also plan on doing a refurb on the voltage regulator board. I know there are a couple electrolytic capacitors in there as well as a selenium rectifier on the genend that could use replacement.

I would also like to see if I can either add a viscous fan clutch to the fan or replace it with an electric solution. The fan is very loud and I'm sure consumes some fuel unnecessarily.
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:15:37 PM
Zephyr7 Zephyr7 is offline
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Default Re: Kohler 30R82 saved from the scrap yard

Definitely replace any selenium rectifiers you find. Those things are time bombs.

If you want to refurb the control board, replace any electrolytic caps with new ones with the highest temperature rating you can get (which will mean longer life). I usually use Panasonic caps from digikey, I forget exactly which line but it’s not super critical. If there are any old open frame pots I’d replace those with new, sealed cermet pots too since they’re much more reliable. Replace any old carbon composition resistors with new carbon film or metal oxide for higher power ones. Semiconductor stuff is usually ok.

Bill
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