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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee


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  #31  
Old 05-30-2015, 08:08:33 AM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Thanks Kirk. I kinda figured that would be the repair. It's just nice to hear from someone that's done it on one of these old tractors.
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  #32  
Old 08-18-2015, 01:34:21 AM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

It's been awhile since my last post. I've been terribly busy on every thing except the 22-36.

The 28th Annual Pioneer Days Antique Tractor Pull & Gas Engine Show. Friday, September 11 in Eagleville TN is coming up quick. I'm hoping to enter the 22-36 in the pull.

I haven't worked on the tractor at all. Up until today I had not started looking for a carburetor. I was in luck. I found a replacement Robin S45 carburetor from a gentleman in Canada. It has been bought, packaged and was shipped today.
Maybe there's hope I will have this thing running and checked out before the pull.

Color me optimistic and excited.
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  #33  
Old 08-26-2015, 08:25:00 AM
R Pope R Pope is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

It's my understanding that the grey tractors were painted red when they got traded in to an IHC dealer. Lots of them around here with traces of a quick red paint job still visible.
I have my Dad's 22-36 that he bought new. Due to the Robin intake and upward pointing exhaust, it's stuck solid. I acquired a running one on rubber and am going to put the steel wheels off Dad's old girl on it.
Dad's old tractor with the Robin conversion and more RPM wasn't far behind our 1940 W9 in the field. Lots more power than a W6, but the steel wheels made it a rough ride.
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  #34  
Old 08-27-2015, 04:13:14 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

The Robin S45 carburetor was delivered. Looks to be in good shape with exception to the throttle shaft/plate. I'm headed to the shop to do some parts swapping and installing on tractor.

I've gone back and read everyone's suggestions on preliminary checks before trying to fire the big 4 cylinder. Appreciate all the advice. Will be back soon to post any updates

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Old 08-29-2015, 01:37:03 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Yesterday I had some time to spend on Bertha. Instead of swapping the entire carburetor I removed the bowl cover and float assembly, installed them on the old carb.

I'm not surprised at home made gaskets. I used to do the same thing when I was younger.


The old cork float is looking a little rough. But seems to be working. Having a tough time getting it adjusted though. Will look for a suitable replacement in the future. May try to find a carb from a Massey 44, as was suggested to me on here.


Oiled up a few moving parts. And moved the Impulse lever into what I believe is the position used to start the engine.


Didn't realize how large the spark plugs are on this big 4 cyl. Takes a 15/16 socket to remove them.
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:47:52 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Pulled a couple plugs to give a look at the condition.
Found out someone has installed different brands of plugs in 3 of the 4 holes.

This is what's in #4 cyl.



#3 cyl spark plug has no identification on it. Also has a different porcelain design than the others.


#1 and #2 cylinders have the same plugs.



---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------

Here's where I'm a bit confused. There are two levers mounted to a bracket attached to the steering column. Lever closest to the operator is timing. The other lever... I don't know. It doesn't seem to go to anything and is frozen to the timing lever. Meaning... both levers work simultaneously and don't separate. Did this use to operate something different?



Also, there is a handle that is part a bar just below the timing lever(s). That handle can be pulled out and locked in place but I haven't figured out what it is yet.
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Old 08-29-2015, 02:07:53 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Did the best I could last night. Tried making timing and carb adjustments.
Cranked it over for the first time. Spent 30 minutes cranking and adjusting. After the first couple of minutes the engine backfired and residual fuel/fumes were burning in the top of the exhaust manifold. Put the stack on it to help but didn't tighten it up. You'll see in the video I take the stack off to check and make sure on flame is burning in the exhaust manifold.

After about 15 minutes of cranking the engine fired for a couple of revolutions. Was exciting even if it was 2 seconds worth. Going back out this afternoon and giving it another shot.

The video is cut down from 23 minutes to 1min 45sec. Just wanted to show you guys when the engine started to sound like it was going to fire (about the 1min 10sec mark.

Also made sure my thumbs weren't wrapped around the handle when cranking. Sure did give me a workout. Quite positive my posture isn't the best when doing this. Been deaing with many internal injuries from a roadside bomb in Iraq 10 years ago, not to mention I turn 50 next week. Regardless, this old iron will be running again.

Suggestions and advice are openly welcome.

Click center of picture below.
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:27:27 PM
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Russ Hamm Russ Hamm is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Did you remove the valve cover to see if you had any stuck valves? A tight or sticking exhaust valve will sure make you backfire, possibly fire on only one or two.
Do you have an opertors manual? I or someone else could fix you up with a copy or you can buy copies, these would help you out a lot on timing and such.
The two levers are for the original governor and spark adjustments, yours has been converted to the push/pull throttle lever and variable speed governor like many were. Sometimes a questionable float can flood you out, in the meantime sometimes we will fill the carb and then shut the gas off for atarting until we get the float replced or sealed, then if it takes off we turn the gas on to run it in as long as it will.
You may not have another tractor to belt start with, thats what we do first off many times, then we can adjust and run in, after that they often crank start a lot easier. If you pull start, make sure your clutch is disengaging, i can tell you firsthand how important that is.
Or, make sure you can kill the spark when you need to, those big carbs can run a long time on a bowl of gas after shutdown.
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Old 08-29-2015, 04:39:30 PM
Titan1020 Titan1020 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Do yourself a big favor and go to NAPA and get a set of Autolite 3076 plugs. They are the correct ones for this tractor. Old plugs can give you a very hard time starting.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:43:57 PM
Ric Murphy Ric Murphy is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

As Russ said the second lever was originally throttle. Mine also has been converted to a push/pull throttle which I have not seen before. I've been wondering how to convert mine back. Did the governor have to be changed also. Unfortunately when someone changed mine they drilled a hole right thru the center of the serial number plate to allow the linkage to pass thru the tank support. I've always used Champion W14 plugs in the older IH tractors. Seem to work ok but not cheap
Ric
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