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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

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Old 01-14-2017, 06:18:51 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Originally Posted by Phil Johnson View Post
I like your method of truing up the manifold surfaces.. Might be a little safer, but not as exciting as Tony Thompson's method of "manifold surfing" behind a vehicle!! LOL
I had that same thought as I was doing it Phil! Been a while since we seen Tony's sweet moves...
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:29:29 AM
lhacker lhacker is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Just wanted to ask you how did you get your sleeve and piston assemblies out?
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:13:57 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Originally Posted by lhacker View Post
Just wanted to ask you how did you get your sleeve and piston assemblies out?
We built a press big enough to put the entire engine block assembly in once we removed it from the tractor. We should have bought a press, but building one seemed like a good idea at the time, as we had most all the materials on hand, it took a lot of time to do though.
But I digress, we pressed the stuck piston and sleeve assemblies out of the block first. Make a thick and strong plate that presses down on the entire rim of the bottom of the sleeve so you don't break anything.
Then once that assemble is out, put that in the press and get the piston out of the sleeve. Again, have a thick disc to put on top of the piston to press on so you don't break the piston.

It all came hard, a 20 ton press really worked to get mine all apart.

If you are not saving the sleeves, they can be sacrificed and cut off the pistons, but I was keeping mine to get bored out.

If you look through my Photobucket account there should be some pics of the process.

What are you working on? I'd love to hear about your projects, start your own restoration tread for us to read

Hope this helps
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Old 03-25-2018, 05:59:37 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Well, I am trying to get my photo situation figured out since Photobucket turned dumb. For the foreseeable future I am going to try using Google Photos.
I am unable to go back in this thread and update the pics, but all of the old pics are now available on my Google Photos page.
This 1927 20-35 #8861 I have set up an album just for this project. I will add new photos to this album from now on.

As far as I can see, the only drawback is that I can not embed the pics directly in threads, but I can put in links to the pics.

As for an actual update, I really have not made any progress in a long time. I did end up taking the heads back off of the tractor to check that I had the valves in the correct places. The only difference between the new exhaust and intake valves is the Exhaust have a small S on the center of the head. After I had gotten the heads all back on I had realized I was not confident I had checked the valves were in the correct places. So after sleeping on it a long while, I decided to take them back off to be sure. Ends up, I did have them all right, all along!

I also wanted to rework the manifold holes and studs a bit too, as I was not 100% happy with how everything went together. It all probably would have been fine, but I wanted to be 100% sure about it. So I have drilled the manifold stud holes out a bit and tweaked some of the studs a touch to get everything to line up better with no stress on anything.

I also wanted to seal up where the rocker arm shafts go through the ends of the heads, to prevent oil leaks. This was recommended to me and I'd prefer as few leaks as possible. Next tractor I may have these machined to put an O ring on them to seal it up.

So once the rocker arm shafts get a finger full of sealant on them the heads and manifolds can go BACK on the tractor again. And then I'll be back to where I was. I swear, the next 20-35 will be much easier, this one is my learning curve

But bedsides that, I've been working on house remodel stuff, and barn addition stuff. Gotta have a place to put all these tractors, hopefully we'll get that wrapped up this spring/summer. Been picking away on it this last fall and through the winter. So the few times I've been home in the last year I've been working on that instead of tractors.
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Old 08-18-2018, 10:36:14 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Hi all,

Boy has it been a busy summer, with all the tractor shows to attend, and new rusty junk to run after and drag home. I have not had much tractor working time, but I did manage to get a few things done my last couple of trips home to WI.

Figured I should update this tread a bit.

Heads are back on the tractor and all buttoned up back to where I previously was.

I figured out a plan to clean out the oil tube that mounts along side the block, that feeds the oil lines for the tractor from the oil pump. Dad and I figured if we could get a brush down the length of the tube would be best, to make sure there was no rust, crust, gunk blocking oil passages. But there is no access for such a thing. So what we did was drill out the rear end of the tube, then tapped it for a pipe plug. We then got down the length of the tube with a gun cleaning kit and got it squeaky clean. When done, insert pipe plug and when on the tractor it is hidden by the clutch housing and tube mounting bracket.

I ended up having to take the torch and heat up the tube and straighten it out some so it would line up with all three oil ports, as well as the main port from the oil pump in the oil pan. Nothing is ever easy with these old tractors, but that is part of the fun and games.

Note that the oil lines have different restrictions on the fittings for different locations. This may help someone down the road, so I made a little note for future reference.

Here are photos of this:

We then turned our attention to finishing up the oil filter canister conversion. This was mostly done, and I may have mentioned this in the past? Just had to drill some holes in the center tube, and make a new o-ring for the canister to seal up to the housing. We went to Napa and the great guy behind the counter (he knows we are old tractor guys, and likes the challenge of what we might ask for when we come in, LOL!) Found us a square O-ring *just* about the right size. It was a hair too big in OD. So we took it home and made up a quick jig on the disc sander and sanded it down a touch. One vintage metal coffee can to slip the O-ring around (already taken off can in pic) sand a bit, Perfect fit!

For future reference it is a 1125 Napa filter.

Here are some pics of this:

---------- Post added at 09:26:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24:10 PM ----------

We then worked on the air cleaner a bit more. Got the new paper filter that I got from Norm installed in the main housing, though it was a bit short so we put a layer of self sticking foam gasket material around the top and bottom side to seal against the rough cast housing better, and that solved the problem.

The ring that the glass jar screws into in the bottom tin canister was in poor shape. After studying it a bit, Dad and I came to the conclusion it is just a canning jar lid soldered into the tin housing. So we warmed it up with the propane torch to melt the solder, and pulled it out. We then put a new canning jar lid in and soldered it in place. Problem solved.

The inside of the tin housing is still dirty, so we put it in a pail of diesel to soak and clean, but once cleaned out, the air cleaner can go back together and back one the tractor.

pics of this:

---------- Post added at 09:30:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:26:45 PM ----------

I then cleaned up all the parts for the water pump. We got the big torch out and got the set screws loose from the new impeller I also got from Norm along with the new shaft. We don't know why they were so stuck, but they sure were.

I was going to just put the pump together with the worn out water packing bushings and fix it better down the road, but Dad convinced me to try to find some new bushings and do it now. So it is basically ready to final assemble, just waiting on new bushings. So that is on hold for the time being.

Pics of this:

---------- Post added at 09:36:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30:19 PM ----------

Then I wanted to get done the project I have been waiting to do. One I hoped would be fairly easy and straight forward. Take apart the radiator, clean and reassemble with new bolts and gaskets.

We had previously flushed the radiator, and tested to see how much it leaked. It was full of mouse habitat, and just for that reason I wanted to take it apart. I didn't want that crap getting in my brand new clean engine! It also has a couple very minor leaks at the seams of where the tanks meet the core, so I hope the new gaskets will fix that issue. The core itself looks great. I took a long little brush I got from one of the vendors at a tractor show, and went up each tube and cleaned them all out. All were free and clear, so there should be no over heating issues here. I then took about and hour and straightened the fins on the front side of the core, that made it look much better.

Had to make one new flat stock bar piece to clamp the core to the tanks, as the original was rotten beyond use.

I cleaned up all the parts, and then we put it all back together. I somehow forgot to order the 1 1/4" long square headed bolts needed along with the 1" ones, so we just have it temped together for now. But we put it back one the tractor, and once the bolts come in, it will just be a matter of putting them on and the radiator will be done!
Cross you fingers it don't leak.

Pics of this:

So the tractor is starting to look like a tractor again:

I think that is about it for this project for now. Slowly but surely I'll get it together. I have to round up some flexible brass tubing for the oil lines, and those bolts I mentioned for the radiator.

Then I'd like to get some original looking radiator hose. I did a quick look on line and found some here:

But I'm not ready to spend the 100$ to get the three feet of hand wrapped, unmarked original looking stuff shipped to me. If anyone has other sources, I'd like to know. Otherwise I'll just get some regular old stuff from the auto store locally.

But you know, the devil is in the details.
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Old 08-19-2018, 10:51:05 AM
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Phil Johnson Phil Johnson is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Looking good, Jacob. Nice to see some more progress.
It'll be done in good time---impossible might take a little longer!
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Old 08-19-2018, 01:09:51 PM
OldThresherM OldThresherM is online now
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Looking good Jacob!I've used Gates Vulco hose with good success.I see it on a lot of older machines.My local O'Reilly carries it.

It has that "wrapped" look you might be wanting.

Last edited by OldThresherM; 08-19-2018 at 01:10:59 PM. Reason: Left out info
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Old 01-12-2019, 05:30:53 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Hi all!

It has been several months since I last updated this thread, so it is time I guess. Trying to remember where I was with this thread.

I was home in Ashland WI over both the Thanksgiving and Christmas/New years holidays. I made some tractor wrenching time between the family get togethers.

Dad and I got the front axle assembly off of the Hybrid tractor it was temporarily on, and put it back on this '27 that it belongs on. The barn expansion project is nearly complete (few trim pieces to put on yet, and need to finish up the loft) so once the front axle was back under the tractor we could pull it back a bit in the barn, since the tractors that were previously behind it were moved. This located it in a better spot to be able to work on it, not quite so crammed up against the wall.

Since I had previously gotten the oil supply tube back on the block, this trip I spent the time bending up new oil lines, and getting everything hooked up. I had sourced the BENDABLE brass line from MSC.

This was the only place I was able to find that had bendable brass line. Other places it was rigid and not bendable. And the lines were originally brass. Many people use copper to replace them, but I wanted to keep things as original as possible.
Here are a few pics of the new lines bent up and installed.

I also got the reproduction oil gauge installed in the dash and plumbed up. I want to get the original style piston gauge remade and installed someday, but for now this gauge will work.

I ended up getting some radiator hose from NAPA for the radiator connections, and from the carb to the air cleaner. It has the kinda hand wrapped look, and the lettering on it I hid where it can't be seen much. I'll have to get original hose clamps on it someday as well, but for now modern clamps will do the job. The radiator will have to come back off to put the fan shroud on once I can check that there are no leaks in the radiator.
I also had rounded up the correct bolts for the radiator, so I finished bolting that all together.

Let's see, then I got the bottom canister for the air cleaner cleaned out. We had that soaking in diesel since the last time I was home, and that softened up all the junk that was caked inside of it. Still took a while to clean it all out, but when I had it clean I put it back on the air cleaner with a glass jar. Then I put it back on the tractor and hooked up the hose to the carb.

So, I think that was about it. There was a lot of little piddly things, adjusting linkages and lines, putting in cotter keys, bolts, and getting correct fittings where they needed to be. You know, all the fussy stuff to get things done.

So this is where it sits as of now:

The hold up now is getting Dads new (used) metal lathe up and running so we can make a few parts. He got it from an auction all disconnected and unwired, but was told it ran when they brought it to the auction. Of course there is no wiring diagram, and between the motor and reversing switch he hasn't been able to figure out the correct way to wire it up. So any advice there is appreciated.
But once it is going, we need to make some bushings for the water pump, and then that can go back together and then back on the tractor. Then need to time up the mag, run some plug wires.
Polish up the push rods, and adjust the valves.
Figure out how to clean out the gas tank and get that patched yet.
And a few other minor things and we can try to get this thing to run!

So I usually don't make them, but that is my New Years resolution: To get this blasted tractor running this summer. Preferably soon enough in the year to be able to bring it to a tractor show or two!
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:08:09 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Nice job on the brass lines! Once you guys get onto that engine lathe you will wonder how how you managed to get along without it.
There are some knowledgeable machinist fellows on the board here. Start a thread and post some pictures of your wiring dilemma and maybe they can sort it out.
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