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Generators & Electric Motors General Discussion Antique Generators and Old Electric Motors: Questions and answers about restoring and showing old power generation systems.

Generators & Electric Motors General Discussion

Homelite Textron 180HIE63


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  #1  
Old 07-22-2019, 05:58:52 PM
Sbouvia Sbouvia is offline
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Default Homelite Textron 180HIE63

I have a new to me Homelite Textron model number 180HIE63, serial number H00770032. Iím trying to find any information on it I can. It says 5900 watts on generator plate but then says 6300 watt on side. I assume that means 5900 watt continuous, 6300 surge? It has a nice Honda GX340 motor which I am rebuilding g the carb now as it had some nasty fuel in it. Pics attached.
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:50:30 PM
Wayne 440 Wayne 440 is offline
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Default Re: Homelite Textron 180HIE63

Nice looking generator. Pardon me for posting an opinion, not information-

IF it was my set, my assumptions regarding the various ratings would be different. I would assume (1) that the set is actually good for about 5500W intermittently and about 4500W continuously if the engine runs good, (2) that the generator is electrically capable of 5900W for an unknown period of time, (3) that someone in the Homelite sales department decided that a 6300 watt generator would sell better than a 5900 or 5500 watt generator.

If you want it to serve you well for a long time, use it as if it said "4500W" on the side instead.
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Old 09-11-2019, 02:01:33 AM
Warwagon Warwagon is offline
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Default Re: Homelite Textron 180HIE63

Owned a smaller flathead version forever. As long as the engine can keep it's speed up, well, mine has seen lots of extended high load abuse and even before I got it.

As you are doing carb work keep in mind specs I could find that Homelite calls for: No-load 3750 RPM and to hold 3600 RPM under full-load.

The "120V Only" 120V/240V Switch should be in the 120V Only position unless you need 240V as it switches windings around in the genset. You use both windings for 120V in the 120V Only switch position. In 120/240V only one winding gets used for 120V.

The Start or RUN "LoadAMatic" no load engine idler switch should be left in "Start".

"Run" idles the engine with no or extremely low load. Useful to save fuel when using on/off loads like a power tool with an on/off switch. Your powered off flatscreen TV won't like the low voltage and frequency of the lower RPM "idle" feature esp. if it's light load doesn't trip idle/LoadAMatic "off" back to ~3600 RPM. (Mine never worked due to physical damage before I got it so WAG on how sensitive it is to return to non-idle 60 HZ with flea power loads of say a powered off flatscreen.)

When the engine RPM falls off due to sudden load, overload, or the LoadAMatic Idle slows the engine down the regulator will reduce it's output (and genset AC voltage falls off) so the engine can "recover". Not said idle and lower field current is a good thing for fuel and heat savings.

Rather than a "breaker" on the 120v/240 outlets it uses a thermal overload on the field circuit. You can literally overload stall the engine to where frequency and voltage are way low until the thermal device trips a significant time later. Minor overload may take 10 min or more to trip.

I include some links to information like service manuals and the patent for the voltage regulator when I repaired mine here (IMO a heatsink on the VR power transistor would help as well as inspecting the thermal breaker for rusty connections as I did):

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=185562
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