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Generators & Electric Motors General Discussion

John Deere Starter/Generator


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  #1  
Old 08-18-2019, 06:59:06 PM
labans labans is offline
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Default John Deere Starter/Generator

Hoping I am not too far off-brand here as I am Onan owner.
But I have a stumping problem with a John Deere starter/generator that is driving me nuts. I bought this S/G new and when it arrived I bench tested it and it motored just fine. But when I install it, it will start the engine but nothing I do will get it to charge. Also installed new electronic voltage regulator. I tried to see if I could get it to give full charging output but am not sure what to do to achieve that because I don't really understand the wiring on the unit.
I would appreciate help with proving that this new unit will charge with the engine running---or not. I need a foolproof test.
Photos attached.
All help appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 08-24-2019, 10:55:34 PM
dkamp dkamp is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Starter/Generator

John Deere builds many things, they've also bought and rebranded many things, everything from big construction machines down to chain saws.

Perhaps you'd find more response if you were to identify the type of machine, and it's model number and vintage, as the information you've provided is clearly insufficient.

Starter Generators came on a whole lotta stuff, and while they all have certain characteristics, making them operate in the motoring circumstance is easy, making them generate requires external circuitry... a regulation system which provides a field supply, and requires a ground return, and depending on wether that regulator is in the source or sink side, will work entirely opposite. Clearly, if your starter-generator motors, then the lack of output is a result of incomplete operation or misconnection of the external controls.
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:47:29 PM
labans labans is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Starter/Generator

Thank you for the reply. I was nervous about any more information about the unit so as not to get knocked off the forum or have people ignore the posting.
The starter\generator is off of a John Deere 2003 Turf Gator TX.
It is a single cylinder engine and uses a sliding-cone and pulley transmission. It has a solid state 3 wire regulator with red\green\black. The red\green come from the generator through a two-wire plug that is labeled DF. There is the large red wire coming from the starter solenoid to post F2 on the starter. A2 with black wire is ground. Then a wire connects F1 and A1 together. When running I have battery voltage at the F1 post and solid ground at A2. I don't know what the F1 and A1 being connected are all about. The red and green wires, when running are at 0 voltage. I am just stumped at how to make this generator generate. It seems that I should be able to run the engine and then manually force the generator to generate, but I don't know the correct procedure. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 08-25-2019, 11:45:31 PM
Ken Karrow Ken Karrow is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Starter/Generator

If no one comes up with definite answer you might check with JD for service manual. JD sometimes can furnish manuals on quite old equipment. A few years ago I bought service manuals on a 1966 garden tractor.
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Old 08-26-2019, 01:03:57 PM
landreo landreo is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Starter/Generator

I do not have one of these gators so take anything I say with a grain of salt.

These SG have separate outputs for the armature, starter or series field, and one set for the regulator or shunt field. That is why there are terminals A1 and A2 for each side of the armature and F1, F2 for each side of the starter field. The red and green wires should be for the shunt field. These can be wired up to reverse the rotation which is the reason for all the separate terminals. The output is typically through the starter solenoid and it must stay closed to feed current to the battery. If the starter solenoid does not stay closed while running then it will not charge. The regulator has to have 12 volts going to it to energize the shunt field. The red wire should have some amount of voltage when the engine is running.

F1 and A1 normally would be connected internally on most SG but they are just externalized to allow for reversing the direction.

The best way to test is while installed in the gator. The F2 post should be at battery voltage when running.

A photo of the starter solenoid and regulator would help.
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:35:45 PM
dkamp dkamp is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Starter/Generator

That looks pretty darned similar to the Kawasaki FE290 found in a Club Car golf cart a couple weeks ago.

I would not be surprised if that's the same starter-generator setup found in 2-stroke golf carts that use direct-reversing (meaning, it starts the engine in forward, and when you flip the reversing lever, it starts the engine in the OTHER direction).

JD is really good about dissolving as much information that would cross-reference supplier's product and parts with their own, so that they retain the single-source for parts for their machinery. End result is that you pay very Deere'ly for that green paint.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:55:45 PM
landreo landreo is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Starter/Generator

If this is the type of gator that starts when you step on the pedal and stops when you release the pedal then the rest of my post may help.

Since your SG will start the engine most of the SG has to be in good working order. The part that is not involved in starting is the red/green wire setup. That is the charging field. Without being connected to the regulator, that field should have a resistance of around a few ohms. If so, then it is likely just fine.

That field will be connected to a 3 wire regulator. The green wire is the low potential of the field and should go to a green wire on the regulator. That regulator wire may be labeled DF. The red wire should go to the red or red striped wire on the regulator and may be labeled D+. That wire should also go eventually to the battery. It may go through the pedal switch or relay but somehow needs to be connected to 12 volts +.

The last wire on the regulator may be labeled D- and should go eventually to the ground. It may go through a fuse but should be grounded somehow.

There is no cutout relay in this type of setup. The starter solenoid acts as a cutout and needs to be closed both while starting the engine and while running or it will not charge.

You can check the resistance of the field coil, check the continuity of the rest of the regulator circuit, look for a blown fuse, check the battery voltage while running, etc...

I expect the SG and regulator are fine but the problem is with a bad or disconnected wire.
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