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Wisconsin Engines

Removing valves from a Wisconsin VF4


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  #1  
Old 09-12-2019, 09:11:10 PM
q930 q930 is offline
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Default Removing valves from a Wisconsin VF4

I have a Massey-Harris hay baler with a very weak VF4. It has very little compression and is impossible to start with the hand crank. I bolted a pulley to the flat belt pulley and have to use an electric motor to start it. To make matters worse, I noticed it's only running on 3 cylinders now due to a stuck valve. I'd like to do a valve job on it. My question is, can I remove the valves without taking off the manifold? Will a valve spring compressor fit in there OK? I'm sure if I tried to remove the manifold it would be disastrous as it looks like it's rust-welded pretty tight and broken studs for sure. All responses or suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:36:29 PM
K-Tron K-Tron is online now
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Default Re: Removing valves from a VF4

You can pull the heads off of your VF4 without removing the intake and exhaust manifolds. You will have to remove the carburetor to make some room for your valve spring compressor. Be prepared to deal with broken head bolts. You will likely have to extract several from each head. Before you pull the engine down, run the engine as normal and spray the crud out of the head bolts with pblaster while the engine is hot, and as it cools down. You will have a much better chance of removing the heads without breaking any of the bolts. You are making the job more difficult for yourself by leaving the manifolds in place but it can be done. Re-installation is going to be fun. Load the valve keepers with grease and use some needle nose pliers to get them in place. I use a Sunnen valve spring compressor from the 1940s or so on my Wisconsin engines. You may need a Lisle 44300 or equivalent screw type compressor with the limited space you will have. While you are in there you should adjust the valve clearance on all of your valves. It is a simple procedure.

Chris
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Old 09-12-2019, 09:57:45 PM
q930 q930 is offline
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Default Re: Removing valves from a VF4

Thank you Chris for your common sense suggestions. I will certainly follow them. If I do bite the bullet and try removing the manifold, will I be surprised on how easy it will come off (ha ha), or am I in for a miserable time? Being 70 year cast pieces maybe even breaking them. Also, would a gasket set be hard to find?
Terry Q.
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Old 09-12-2019, 10:08:54 PM
K-Tron K-Tron is online now
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Default Re: Removing valves from a VF4

Terry, It would be best if you remove the eight nuts that secure the upper exhaust manifold and intake manifold to the upturned manifolds bolted to the cylinder jugs. All of these eight bolts are sitting perfectly level. Removing them would make your life a whole lot easier. You wouldnt have to remove the carburetor, just the linkage to the governor (one cotter pin). Removing the upper half of the manifold is usually trouble free. if it is stuck, you can tap it back and forth with a hammer to break the gasket bond. You may have to drill/extract/helicoil one or two studs but that is about it, and that is on a bad day. You can order all of the gaskets and parts for your VF4 from Tim Stine in Pennsylvania, 1-814-766-3675. If you remove the manifold this way you could get away with going to Napa and getting some exhaust gasket material to make the four oval shaped gaskets you need. Removing the manifolds at the cylinder jugs will require you to buy the appropriate factory gaskets from Tim. You will not find those crush gaskets at an auto parts store.

Chris
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Old 09-12-2019, 10:31:57 PM
q930 q930 is offline
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Default Re: Removing valves from a VF4

Thanks again Chris. Removing the upper manifold does sound like the way to go. I'll start it within the next couple days and break loose (not break) the head bolts, and loosen those eight stud nuts. Then I'll remove engine from the baler and bring it in my little heated workshop. An excellent winter project. Thanks again
TQ
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:45:04 AM
I like oldstuff I like oldstuff is offline
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Default Re: Removing valves from a VF4

You need access to the valve chambers so the manifolds have to come off. Those round gaskets are cheap. *Plug the holes that go down into the block with rags so you don't lose valve keepers into the depths.
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Old 09-13-2019, 10:16:29 AM
msellers msellers is offline
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Default Re: Removing valves from a Wisconsin VF4

I really like PB Blaster, but if you are afraid this is to tusted up. I would suggest using a penetrant made from half acetone and half atf or marvel mystery oil. The acetone will really draw it down into the theeads and work everything loose far quicker and completely. An old shop guy did some tests, will try and find his results again; but this mix worked something like 200% better than the best penetrating oil in his tests and analysis.
Mike
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Old 09-13-2019, 11:07:35 AM
Mitch Malcolm Mitch Malcolm is offline
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Default Re: Removing valves from a Wisconsin VF4

I did a lot of Wisconsin work back in the day For the head bolts I would take a 3/4 brass drift and put it on each head bolt and hit it with a 3 lb hammer and I mean hit it .Then spray penetrant on each and let it sit while we had coffee and then take them loose with a 3/8 impact wrench it worked the best of anything at that time .
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Old 09-13-2019, 03:37:33 PM
Ron Beddome Ron Beddome is offline
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Default Re: Removing valves from a Wisconsin VF4

Dont tap it ---- HIT it --- it isnt your mothers head!
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