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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee


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  #61  
Old 09-07-2015, 09:41:59 PM
Ric Murphy Ric Murphy is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Stuck valves are a common problem on these tractors. Just sitting during the off season I've had one stick although not bad. Dad told me grandpa always pulled the valve cover off at the end of the threshing season and oiled all the valve stems well. I use cork for the gasket and find it works well. Use adhesive on the head side so it stays put when you remove the cover (which you'll do often. I finished an engine overhaul on mine earlier this summer. Ran well the first few times then one cylinder started cutting out. When I rechecked the valve clearances one was almost 1/4". This caused the plug to foul eventually. I rechecked/reset all clearance and replaced the plugs. So far its been running well since but have only run it a couple hours. Going to plow with it this weekend. This will be its first workout since the rebuild. I've also had problems starting it by hand. Today it started on the 2nd crank. I concluded I've been flooding it. Today I cranked a double compression with full choke and mag off. I then turned on the mag and turned off the choke. Started on first half crank. I think your next run with valve clearance reset and all valves moving freely will make a world of difference!!
Ric
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  #62  
Old 09-07-2015, 09:44:12 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

After getting the valves in what looked to be working order,
filling the dripper trays,
filling up the cooling system (just to see the few minor leaks that need fixing),
installing new plugs,
learning how to adjust the timing (for starting),
Big Bertha got cranked over. Once getting it up on a compression stroke, and with valves seated like they should be, it felt a little tougher to pull on the crank handle. The video shows the large cubic inch four cylinder fire on the third pull. It kind of caught me off guard. But boy was I glad to hear it.

https://youtu.be/zpW3PXGOsSU
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:46:21 PM
Ric Murphy Ric Murphy is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

The other 2 cups are primer cups. You can squirt some gas in them to aid in starting cold. Most people don't use them from what I've heard. The manual is pretty vague on how much fuel you should actually use.
Ric
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  #64  
Old 09-07-2015, 09:51:38 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

Thanks for the info Rick. When I had the primer cups off and after cleaning them well, I sprayed carb cleaner in them both and let them sit upright. This is without the tubes under them. They never drained down. Don't know if the check valves in them are stuck. Matters not since I probably won't be using them. Although, you will find humor in the fact I put 3 or 4 squirts of oil down each hole before re-installing the primer cups. Guess that's why there was a little blue smoke when I got it started
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:59:11 PM
Ric Murphy Ric Murphy is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

You're welcome! Have you had a chance to drive the old girl yet? That's when the fun begins. Them steel wheels will mess up a yard or lane way pretty quick. It'll also shake the teeth out of your mouth on a hard hard gravel road. Dad always said to keep one wheel in grassy shoulder when you can to improve the ride. Really does help.
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  #66  
Old 09-07-2015, 10:27:37 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

After I shut the engine down on Bertha, I went in the house for lunch and take a short break. The next video is my first attempts in making this thing move. Try not to laugh too much, I didn't know shift pattern. Had to run through all positions and make sure I didn't run over my brush hog trying to find reverse.

Towards the end of the video I stopped the tractor and it decided it wanted to shut itself down. Couldn't tell if it was acting like it was starving for fuel or?
Took a few tries but got it cranked back up and put back under cover for the evening.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMWh...ature=youtu.be

---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 PM ----------

Tomorrows list of fixes includes repairing the stripped out hole right behind the radiator cap and getting a new bolt to hold the front of the hood in place.


Not mandatory right now but would like to get a new fan belt. This one's missing chunks on the inside.



Of course, recheck valve clearances and install a cover gasket.

I may try to change the oil. Who knows how old the oil is that's in there.
Suggestions on weights? Rotella straight weight oils?

Going to drain what little fuel I put in the tank back out, check fuel lines and shut off valve, then start with some fresh fuel again. I think I loosened a little sediment from the bottom of the fuel tank.

Will be removing the air cleaning assembly and cleaning it out thoroughly.

While I'm at the auto parts store I may as well pick up a few tubes of grease. Looks like a lot of grease zerts on this machine and the joints all need filling.


Can someone tell me what this little valve is for on the piping near the lower radiator hose?


Also, anything significant about the numbers on the casting right behind the radiator cap?
(726-D #1)


---------- Post added at 09:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 PM ----------

That's all I have for today. Will continue to take photos of any work/progress I'm making on this ole girl. Getting excited with it running. Hoping to put her in the vintage tractor pull this Friday night at Pioneer Days in Eagleville Tennessee.

http://www.eaglevilletvppa.com/


Thanks for all the help guys. I sure have needed the direction with this one.
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  #67  
Old 09-07-2015, 10:35:47 PM
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FWurth FWurth is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

That little valve is to use to drain the cooling system. Those numbers on the casting are simply the part numbers for that casting.
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:39:25 PM
HBurk HBurk is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

You DID learn how to adjust the timin fer startin. Now you need to learn how to adjust (advance) it fer runnin. Yur gittin there.
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:44:31 PM
Ric Murphy Ric Murphy is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

My water pump and plumbing is different than yours but I assume that's a drain plug to get water completely out.
I use SAE 30 low ash (non detergent) oil in all my IH tractors. I buy it from CaseIH but an equivelent may be available elsewhere. Change the filter also.
Looks like your air breather is not connected?? It's an oil bath cleaner. Remove the oil cup at the bottom, clean out any crap and refill with clean oil to the level marked. Get a piece of hose and reconnect it. It will effect your carb settings and the way it runs.
The number on the rad top is the part number. IH cast the part number into virtually every part on their tractors. Very helpful when looking for replacements.
Good idea to flush the fuel tank again also. Don't know how long the tractors been sitting but there's bound to be junk in there that may be causing problems.
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:58:48 PM
rwood64083 rwood64083 is offline
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Default Re: McCormick Deering 22-36 in Tennessee

You are correct Ric. Air filter is not connected to the carb. I kept having carb leaking issues when trying to start it. That and I wasn't convinced the choke flap was opening all the way when running and pushing the rod and lever all the way in. Gave me opportunity to check it while running.

You mentioned changing the filter. I'm guessing I'm not going to find a replacement anywhere local. Suggestions?

I think I know but would you explain the valves on the side of the oil pan?
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