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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers


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  #51  
Old 04-16-2016, 11:24:42 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

My buddy Kyle has also been making good progress on my governor. He got the shaft all disassembled so the worn pins could be replaced, and a new bearing can be installed.

Note the worn pins were blind pinned in place, so they had to be drilled out before they could be removed.



New pins in


Keep up the great work Kyle! Once he's done this governor will be good for another 90 years
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  #52  
Old 04-16-2016, 11:36:08 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

So here is my next step, to fix the clutch fork shaft. The ends are some kind of messed up on both ends. I still haven't figured out WHAT happened to them, or what someone did to them to get like this?
Any ideas???
I assume there should be a grease zerk in both ends?

right end. There are some threads about a 1/4" in from the boogered up end.


Left end appears to have a piece of steel hammered into the hole?


They obviously were set up for grease originally, as the passages are there on both ends.



I plan to drill both ends out bigger, tap and plug. Then drill and tap the plug for a grease zerk. Unless you all have a better idea?
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  #53  
Old 04-17-2016, 12:55:28 AM
Brasherman Brasherman is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Maybe I am missing something, but why would you need a hole on both ends? I would think that if the rod is bored all the way through, one grease hole is enough to force to the other end as well? I obviously haven't seen this part, so just blue skying a question. Progress looks good.
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  #54  
Old 04-17-2016, 09:32:12 AM
maceymadness maceymadness is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

So you could Grease from what ever side you where on, without walking around to the other.
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  #55  
Old 04-17-2016, 11:20:32 AM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Maceymadness and Brasherman, let me clarify my previous post. The grease hole does NOT go all the way through the length of the shaft. Only in the 3" or so from each end to the perpendicular hole. But that was one of our first thoughts too, that it may go all the way from the one side.

But good thoughts! Any other ideas why they would have plugged the one hole?
OR how they buggered up the other?
If only these old beauties could talk. We may never know.
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  #56  
Old 05-01-2016, 05:08:04 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Hi all!

Well I got the clutch fork shaft all fixed up! I drilled out the bad end and tapped it for a 5/8" bolt. Put a bolt in with a little locktite, cut it off flush, and ground it smooth. Then drilled through the bolt and tapped for the grease zerk, wallah, good as new!



The other end I was lucky. Once I got (what I figured out to be) the old mashed up grease zerk out, the threads were ok. I chased them with a tap and they are good to go! I guy gets lucky once in a while.
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  #57  
Old 05-01-2016, 05:15:34 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Now on to the clutch.

I brought that back to ND with me the last trip home, and this weekend I took to cleaning it up and getting it disassembled.


This shows how the clutch break works. When you pull the clutch handle back it engages the clutch. handle in the middle is clutch disengaged. And if you push the handle all the way forward it engages the break, which stops the transmission from turning, so the tractor stops.


Gear taken off.
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  #58  
Old 05-01-2016, 05:20:04 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Then the rest of the assembly could be taken off of the clutch shaft.



Then the snap ring could be removed and the bearing could come out.


And the rest of the pins and linkages could be taken apart.
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  #59  
Old 05-01-2016, 05:36:26 PM
Jacob WI Jacob WI is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Now we get to the questions portion of my postings, LOL!

The collar and shifter assembly are quite worn.
good side.


bad worn side.


and a look at how much play there is between the collar and shifter.


The collar itself doesn't appear to be worn too bad actually. Which is surprising, being bronze it should wear faster than the shifter. I suspect it has been replaced in the past?



What is the best course of action here to fix this? Have it welded up and turned back down to size? Turn true and install a spacer? There is like 1/4" of slop front to back on these parts, and I suspect it should be about none, correct?

Craig, did Mark have to address this issue when he was in the clutch of his 20-35? By the way, the pics of that project with the clutch out are what convinced me to pull the clutch on mine too! Might as well whilst the engine is out right?.....

Thanks in advance for any advice!
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  #60  
Old 05-01-2016, 06:04:38 PM
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RustyRelics UK RustyRelics UK is offline
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Default Re: 1927 20-35 Allis Chalmers

Thanks for posting the pictures of your progress, they will come in handy as a reference when I pull the clutch out of my 20-35
Keep up the good work
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