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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"


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  #51  
Old 07-26-2016, 12:20:53 AM
ajs2744TC ajs2744TC is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Looks like a workable pair of 2744 fenders. Hood does appear correct for a 20-35. I'm sure that those were the replacement option for your tractor back when. Last time I checked fenders were 500$ a set but they make a restoration look great.
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  #52  
Old 07-26-2016, 11:44:48 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Twin City fenders are fairly light gauge. There is a number of stress fractures on the fenders I have especially the LF one and I'm sure more would appear once the kinks were hammered out. These would have to be welded and at my current skill level would probably look pretty ragged upon completion. Maybe new would be the way to go.

Some more teardown pictures. When I removed the water pump I discovered a phenomenal amount of debris in the cooling system. The merry little field mice gained access to it either through the open drain plug hole and/or the rusted out lower radiator pipe and turned the water jackets and radiator into a regular little rodent "Taj Mahal". Lots of debris in the top radiator tank. The water pump will be getting a new shaft as this one is quite corroded.
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  #53  
Old 07-27-2016, 11:48:17 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

I knew with that amount of rust showing in the top radiator tank that the core would be full of the same. Getting the core and the lower tank cleaned out looked like a tough proposition so I opted to disassemble the radiator.
It turned out to be the thing to do. The crank tube in the lower radiator tank must have given problems in the past as it had been welded previously. Unfortunately for me the repair area had re-cracked. An inspection of the core itself showed numerous stress cracks in the upper and lower header plates so it looks like a new replacement radiator core will be necessary. How does one go about getting one of these made?
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Old 07-28-2016, 08:41:13 AM
Molinegb Molinegb is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

I had both my TC cores made in Winnipeg. Just gave them originals.Little pricey!
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:15:16 AM
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

I get mine made here locally also. Just give them the old core and they build you a new one just like it. As Gary said, it can be a little pricey due to the high cost of copper.
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:27:04 AM
Tony Thompson Tony Thompson is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Mark,
When you check around for a radiator core, price one from General Radiator in Chicago.
1-800-336-2444
They are an industrial radiator manufacturing facility that makes them for many other shops.
I have some helpful info on my "1927 allis 20-35 rescued from log sleep" thread about their radiator cores. Look on page five.
Have them fax you a core measuring chart so they can get it the right size by having both parties understand just how the cores are measured.
I have a chart here that I could e-mail you, but it will not load on the forum.
I order cores with oversize "trim to fit" top and bottom plate, drill the holes myself and solder in my own overflow pipe to save money and make sure they fit nice.
Tony
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:33:03 PM
Oilpulled Oilpulled is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Are those cracks in the header or just cracks in rust from the casting? We have a leaky radiator on a 20-35 also.
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Old 07-29-2016, 12:05:33 AM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Thanks Tony. Your well documented restoration threads have already proven useful to me and no doubt others as well. I see that General Radiator has a website also and it looks like inquiries can easily be made via email. I'll relay any information that I find out as others may be in the same radiator predicament as I am.

When I was contemplating buying this tractor I had Phil check three things out for me.
1. A visual check under the valve covers to see if water had gotten into the engine through the vents.
2. A visual check through the crankcase handholes to check for slung babbitt.
3. A bore scope check of each cylinder to see if the mice had gotten inside.

When I removed the exhaust manifold I found out just how close the mice were to getting inside the cylinders. The engine happened to stop at a point where the exhaust valve openings were too small to allow passage. Their residence did play havoc with some of the valves however.

Needed exhaust manifold work includes flange and crack repair plus probably resurfacing. Note that clever "Canadian" anti-theft device in the exhaust runner!
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Last edited by Mark Schneider; 07-29-2016 at 10:57:07 PM.
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  #59  
Old 07-29-2016, 10:11:26 AM
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Mark, when you have the manifold ready for resurfacing, you could try Tony's "manifold surfing technique" !!

That old TC has sure gone to the right guy now! I'm glad to see it under repair and will follow this thread with great interest.
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Old 07-29-2016, 05:05:06 PM
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Default Re: Twin City 20-35 "Canadian"

Mark, you may think about what I am going to do to repair the fenders on my 21-32 that have stress cracks also. I got a piece of I think 16 ga.x 4 in. wide that I'm going rivet on the bottom dside of the fenders. I want to save my fenders and this was the easiest way I could come up with and would also look like it was done yrs. ago. Jim
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