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Antique Farm Tractors Vintage farm tractors on rubber tires with various implements. Ford, John Deere, Oliver, McCormick and more.

Antique Farm Tractors


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Old 09-25-2006, 09:18:13 AM
kswavey kswavey is offline
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Default Alternator

I have a J.D. model B it has a 6 volt electrical system. I want to change to a 12 volt system. What alternator will work .

Tank you Keith
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:25:53 PM
CharlieBiler CharlieBiler is offline
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Default Re: Alternator

I would suggest you use a 10SI Delco alternator with the standard, and well proven, built in regulator. They can be asembled into a six, twelve, or twenty-four volt unit of either polarity. I suggest you just use the standard twelve volt unit from a Chevy from the seventies to the eighties. That way you can use SAE fasteners and not be bothered by metric nonsense. A long rod through the old generator bottom pivot is the easy way to go and use the existing generator top brace. Sometimes you may have to drill two new holes in the old generator base piviot to get everything far enough forward. The 10 DN and then 10SI were originally made as drop on replacements for GM's old Delco Generators. They are cheap, reliable, and a ten year old can rebuild one in ten minutes with the most basic of tools. They are still the industry standard for off road industrial alternators. GM no longer makes them but everyone else just copies the design right down to the last detail. Parts will be available for generations.

A regular unit without the needless 'one wire' setup is the best to get. To get a soft turn on and reliable spin up, excite the #1 terminal with twelve volts, through an oil sense relay. Just run a wire from the plus terminal to the relay and then use the other terminal of the oil switch to jolt the alternator. When the engine oil pressure gets above a pound, or so, the alternator turns on and will charge a twelve volt battery to 14.2 volts. The number two wire can be used as the 'idiot light' and should also be fed from the same oil pressure switch, through a small dash light. This way you still use the amp meter and have the modern idiot light, if you want one. The few bucks for the switch is more than made up by the savings in using a standard alternator and the reliability of consistant charging. This setup also guarantees no slow drain on the battery during long times of barn rest and storage. If you have an accessory terminal on an ignition switch, the pressure switch can be omitted. Just remember she is trying to charge when the engine is starting. Sometimes a little drag is a bad drag.

Keep the pulley as small as possible. I recommend a '1214P' Ace type pulley to drive the unit. It is the smallest pulley made for alternators, anywhere. It is so small that it includes a special small extended nut because there is no room for a full size pulley nut in that tiny pulley base bore. It will accept a 13/16" belt all the way down to a 3/8" belt. A 3/8" belt will make her sing like a chain saw, in Deere speed ratings, at moderate engine speeds.

Deeres are really low RPM engines and even at full governed speed; the alternator is barely able to notice anything. It is impossible to approach rated alternator RPMS even with a trick pulley and a jacked up Deere engine.

Good luck and have fun.
Charlie Biler
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