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Antique Engine Archives All archived posts from 1999 to 2004 when SmokStak was on EnginAds. This is a read-only board.

Antique Engine Archives

head gaskets


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  #1  
Old 11-09-2002, 09:14:36 PM
smootz
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Default head gaskets

I currently have the heads removed from two different engines for various repair work. One is an 8 hp Stover, the other a Bessemer. While researching the vendors for gasket material I find that several have 1/16" Asbestos . Some vendors offer 1/16 Asbestos that is "metal" reinforced. Is there an advantage to using the reinforced ones on these engines or is it "overkill"? SCOTT
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  #2  
Old 11-09-2002, 09:45:38 PM
allen lapage
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Default Re: head gaskets

The metal reinforced is defenatly harder to work with, but will be more resistant to blowing out. If your not presently having any head gasket trouble, then I think the regular will be just fine. just my opnion.
  #3  
Old 11-09-2002, 10:38:31 PM
Kevin Beitz
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Default Re: head gaskets

The reinforced gaskets are much harder to seat than the softer stuf... So it will leak easyer and faster...
  #4  
Old 11-09-2002, 10:57:27 PM
Randy Hart
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Default Re: head gaskets

Scott, I had an Economy 9hp E and it would eat head gaskets! I finally bought a sheet of material from NAPA that was somewhat soft on the outside and had a thin metal sheet inside.. This was ok to work with and it had enough give to seal.. No problems after that was installed ! I have the box with some left in it.. I'll try to remember to look at the box for a number and I'll post it.. Randy Hart Ohio
  #5  
Old 11-10-2002, 12:24:01 AM
Richard W.
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Default Re: head gaskets

Clinger 1,000 is good for pressure up to 4,000 PSI and can be used on diesels. I used the stuff with the metal in it and I didn't like it.
  #6  
Old 11-10-2002, 12:38:51 AM
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Paul Spence Paul Spence is offline
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Default Re: head gaskets

I just use the 1/16" gasket material from Lee. Never tried the metal core material, seems to me, it would be difficult to work with. Paul
  #7  
Old 11-10-2002, 02:29:59 AM
Patrick M Livingstone
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Default Re: head gaskets

I use the metal re-enforeced material on all my engines. It is a little harder to work with but I never have any problems with head gaskets... no matter how many times I have had to pull heads off again.




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  #8  
Old 11-10-2002, 09:33:03 AM
George Vaughan
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Default Re: head gaskets

Patrick..How do you manage to make clean cuts on the head gasket material that has the metal sandwich?
  #9  
Old 11-10-2002, 09:48:08 AM
Randy Hart
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Default Re: head gaskets

George, I use an Allpax gasket cutter for the circles and a scroll saw for the water ports.. The Napa material cuts fine with the razor blade on the Allpax.. I sometimes cover the gasket with a thin sheet of plexiglass if a fuzzy edge might cause a problem .. Randy Hart Ohio
  #10  
Old 11-10-2002, 10:37:43 AM
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Harry Harry is offline
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Default Re: head gaskets

Coming from the electrical/electronics background, I use Greenlee Chassis Punches to cut the bolt holes in tough gaskets. They come in 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 on up, just right for bolt holes. Not for mass production, but good enough for one gasket at a time.
  #11  
Old 11-10-2002, 03:08:38 PM
Jim Tremble
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Default Re: head gaskets

Harry

I too have a Greenlee set, up to 2-1/2". Hydrolic.

Are the 1/2" and 3/4" punches that you refer to, a true 1/2" or 3/4" or are they the 7/8" hole for 1/2" emt couplers etc.?

If they are smaller and close to the rated size, ie: 1/2" hole, I would like to find those.

Thanks,

Jim
  #12  
Old 11-10-2002, 03:49:03 PM
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Harry Harry is offline
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Default Re: head gaskets

The electronics punches are true sizes.

The electrician punches are truly O.D. sizes for pipe identified by I.D. and labeled by I.D.
  #13  
Old 11-10-2002, 04:33:40 PM
smootz
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Default Re: head gaskets

Thanks for the tips. Since neither engine has a history of blowing gaskets I guess I will stay with the plain stuff. My little "ball peen" gasket cutter makes short work of it. SCOTT
  #14  
Old 11-10-2002, 08:22:48 PM
Patrick M Livingstone
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Default Re: head gaskets

George, I use really sharp scissors for the outside and the inside edges. I then use my set of hole punches for the head-stud holes and for the water jacket holes. It takes a little time but I end up with a good, long-lasting, head-gasket




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  #15  
Old 11-10-2002, 11:30:45 PM
Craig
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Default Re: head gaskets

If you decide to use the metal laminated stuff make a cardboard pattern, sandwich the gasket between thin plywood sheets and drill the bolt and water holes. That metal is really hard on arch gasket punches! you can cut the cylinder opening with a tin-snips.
  #16  
Old 11-11-2002, 02:15:33 PM
Jim Tremble
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Default Re: head gaskets

Thanks Harry

I have to look for a set of those punches. I have had a need for them for years and did not know they existed.

Jim
  #17  
Old 11-13-2002, 08:43:44 AM
George Vaughan
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Default Re: head gaskets

Thanks Guys...I have a large Witte that blows a gasket on start up if I get just a bit too much prime gas in it initially (starting on compression). Mag will ignite the surplus gas on the off stroke when the valve is open and the gasket on the air intake/valve head gets ruined. I think that the tougher material will hold up to the occasional back-fire better. Hard to get the exact amount of prime gas EVERY time so I know that this will occur once in a while regardless...Appreciate the info...GV
 


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