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Oilers, Lubricators and Grease Cups Discussion about collecting and restoring oilers, lubricators & grease cups.

Oilers, Lubricators and Grease Cups

Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine


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  #1  
Old 01-01-2017, 12:59:03 PM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hi all Happy New Year.
Starting to re build a F & J pump jack Engine and found that it has a grease cup or something similar missing of the Big End of the Connecting rod (Piston Rod). I have looked all over the place and seen cups or a plug arrangement. Can anyone help please. Or if someone has one or know where I can get one from. Regards Richard (UK)
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:19:58 PM
Mike Hole Mike Hole is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson pump jack Engine.

The connecting rod did not use a normal grease cup.

There was a flat "puck" with two holes drilled in it screwed into the threaded boss in the side of the connecting rod. The boss was filled with grease and the puck screwed in to push the grease into the bearing.

The two holes in the puck were to insert a pin spanner to turn the puck with.

Later models used a drilled crank shaft and a left hand threaded grease cup in the end of the crankshaft to grease the rod bearing.

In place of the puck I have seen several with a modern zerk fitting installed in the boss for greasing the con rod.

Good Luck with your project.

Mike Hole
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Old 01-02-2017, 12:22:34 AM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson pump jack Engine.

Thanks Mike I will look into it.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:09:07 AM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson pump jack Engine.

Hi Mike I hope all is well. I had quite a break from working on the engine and the more I took it apart the more needed fixing so I gave it a rest for a bit as work and life generally got in the way. Back onto it now and have taken the con rod off and find that it is fitted with one white metal half shell bearing and one brass half shell and a lot of wafer thin shims. The brass/copper tube is missing from the big end to the gudgeon (wrist) pin and as you pointed out the big end grease Puck is missing so as it turns out not to bad as it has a later grease cup on the Crankshaft. But of course when you push the grease down the Crankshaft it comes out of where the puck Gould be and also where the copper pipe should be fitted. Long story short do you know if the big end shells fitted where as standard or has someone just put them in as they had rotated and covered the grease hole ?.
Regards Richard
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Old 10-28-2017, 10:46:21 AM
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine





http://www.old-engine.com/fuller.htm
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Old 10-28-2017, 12:22:33 PM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hi There

Thanks for the pictures,

I think I will have to babbitt mine.

Regards
Richard
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:41:45 PM
Mike Hole Mike Hole is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hi Richard,

As the pictures show, that con rod should have a poured babbit bearing on both halves. I'll take a look and see if I have any photos of the last one i poured for a farm pump. If I do i'll post them for you.

Mike
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Old 10-30-2017, 06:48:26 AM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hi Mike

Thanks for that, as you can see from the picture attached someone has put shells in, also the copper or brass pipe from the main to the small end is missing. I am constructing something at the moment to get the Gib key out to get the flywheel off and so I can get the crank out and send it away to have the crank ground and new White metal bearings made for it along with the two crank bearings.

Regards

Richard
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:08:17 AM
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Pulling the flywheel was a heavy duty job. I used my big-ass bench vice and a chisel...

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Old 10-31-2017, 11:52:29 AM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hi Harry

I have one problem above all else, that is someone has broken the end of the key off flush with the crank, so it is just a piece of square rod with nothing to get hold off, I will have to see if I can fabricate something together and weld it up and see if I can use a slide hammer. I also have looked through your write up and am trying to copy your idea for the water pump, it is a Red Jacket and originally had a long shaft to a deep well, so I have honed it out to about 76mm and have bought a plunger for a 75mm pump, I have rebuilt everything else and made a new Stainless Steel shaft for it, I have just got to double check my measurements and try to see if it will work, that is after I have re built the engine, as the more I took it apart the more I found bodge jobs on it. Someone had put shell bearings in the big end and they had rotated and covered up the grease hole, the small end was shot as there was no pipe going to the small end, and a lot of other stuff in-between. It wouldn’t be fun if it was straight forward would it.

Regards

Richard
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:38:02 PM
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Elden DuRand Elden DuRand is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Oliver:

Broken off gib keys are fairly vommon. There are several ways to get them out.

- Carefully drill and tap the key so a piece of threaded rod can be screwed into the key. Slide a weight onto the rod and screw a nut on the end and use it as a slide hammer.

- Weld a bolt or threaded rod to the end of the key and pull it out.

- Drill the key with successively larger bits until it is thin enough to collapse.

I'm sure there are other ways of doing the job but the above should give you some ideas.
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:27:58 PM
Scotty 2 Scotty 2 is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hello all
I've just been through the stuck gib key with the broken off head in a farm pumper saga. It was a Southern Cross farm pumper.
What I did was cut a slot in some 50X5 (2x1/4) flat steel ribbon that lets the broken key fit snugly in the middle. I V'd the slot on each side just to get more penetration when I ran a run of weld down each side of the gib key. I should mention I extended the slot out past the end of the gib key and past the end of the crankshaft by about 1/2". I welded the steel ribbon in place and slipped a steel wedge through the slot I cut so it runs down the end of the crankshaft (placed a piece of copper on the end of the crankshaft for protection) and drove the wedge in. The gib key came out with no worries. I think the heat with the welding helped a lot.
If I remember I'll take some pictures as a picture tell a 1,000 words.

Cheers Scott
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:30:50 PM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Hi everyone, I finally got the old flywheel off, I made a metal plate up with a slot in it great minds think alike Scotty 2, and welded it onto the key, ended up stripping the stop nut off the slide hammer ? I ended up tapping the three holes in the flywheel and getting some long coach bolts and putting them through and slowly winding them against the engine with spacer’s in-between. It very very slowly slid off. There was no chance of ever getting the Gib key out as it was a mess inside and looks like someone had tried before or just rammed the flywheel on at some stage, the key in the slot was about 2 inches long and tapered at the far end which ran up against a slope at the end so someone had hit it in and when the two wedges met it just pushed up and locked it in place.
Anyone know what the main bearings are made off, are they cast white metal or are they white metal tubes pushed in then machined out to fit the crank.

Thanks to everyone for their help.
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:53:03 PM
Mike Hole Mike Hole is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

The last farm pumper we restored had the main bearings come out stuck to the crankshaft. They were indeed a white metal or babbit tube, but I figured they had been poured in place and then the crank fitted to them.

So that's how I replaced them. I made up a mandrel and bushings to center it.
I also had to take into consideration a way to seal the back side of the bearing in the crank case to stop the babbit from leaking out during the pour.

One end of the mandrel was drilled and threaded so I could bolt it right to the steel top on my welding table. It made aligning and holding the crank case for pouring much easier.

I hope you can make sense of what I'm trying to describe. I still can't find the pics of doing it, but it worked well.

Mike
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Old 11-05-2017, 04:58:40 AM
oliver70rc oliver70rc is offline
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Default Re: Fuller and Johnson Pump Jack Engine

Thanks Mike
That gives me some direction to start going.
I have finally found out how to link my photos of the machine as it is at the moment. You can see here someone has already tried to drill the Gib key out and gone into the crank.

Regards

Richard

http://s247.photobucket.com/user/lor...?sort=3&page=1
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