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Generators & Electric Motors General Discussion Antique Generators and Old Electric Motors: Questions and answers about restoring and showing old power generation systems.

Generators & Electric Motors General Discussion

Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)


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  #1  
Old 05-25-2019, 09:32:13 PM
Railroads Railroads is offline
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Default Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Hi everyone, This is my vlog of restoring the Homelite LR5000T Steve Dawkins was offering for "free to good home" here on the stak. No one else was interested in the generator. If no one was interested Steve was going to scrap it. I stepped up and saved the Homelite from becoming shredded scrap on a boat to China.

We were able to work out a method to get the thing halfway between Steve's and my place. ( Thank you to Steve Dawkins for hanging on to the generator and making the journey to Lawrenceville Va to drop it off. ) The generator ended up being stored at my sister's place for a while. I was in my dark place in my mind. Loosing mom really messed me up mentally. I ended up spending some time away from all my projects. My sister and her business were in the process of moving to a new location at the time of me finally going to get the Homelite and bringing it home April 1st 2019. The old generator had to be picked up or faced being scrapped once again. Sound familiar? Seems to be the way of things in the railroad preservation world right now. Look at CPR 5361 last year and BL&E #643 facing scrapping in July. How bout the train wreck in Noblesville In. That outfit had been at that location for 50 years. Anyway's, It's a good 8 1/2 hour trip to and from Lawrenceville Va for me. I was just not in the right frame of mind before April to go and get it. I honestly don't have a good relation with my sister sadly. She's a drama queen and I wasn't in the frame of mind to do battle with her mess. We can get crackling like crossed wires. Nuff of that though. Family feuds are for another discussion. Lets get to the fun stuff shall we.

First picture is of picking up the LR5000T in Lawrenceville. Sitting outside for me when I got there.



Second pic is safe and sound on the ground at my back door. Yay!



I had to build a makeshift fence out of the trash can, some crates and old paneling on the sides out of frame so my nosey neighbors couldn't see what I have. I need to build a wood fence outback and a large shed. (Might electrify the fence too) We've got a couple meth heads round here and they are always looking for something to steal. Enough about the problems round here though. Let's get started on the real fun.

First fault I come across is the rubber fuel tank grommet was broken and has turned to a sticky tar like mess. Yuck!



After removing from tank.





All the repair parts.



Fuel tank cleaned up with some carb cleaner spray. Nice and clean ready for new grommet and petcock.



Continued below. Picture limits per post dictate breaking up my vlog on the stak.

Last edited by Railroads; 05-26-2019 at 12:14:13 AM.
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:53:48 PM
Railroads Railroads is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

New grommet and petcock awaiting some Vaseline before being installed.



New petcock and grommet installed.



Covering the fuel tank with a white bath towel. Temperature was 95 degrees and the sun was beating down relentlessly. The black plastic of the tank was getting hot enough to cook an egg. I didn't want to warp the plastic or some such disaster.



Next in part 2. "Carburetor cleaning"
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Old 05-25-2019, 10:44:32 PM
Railroads Railroads is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Part 2,

Marking the governor linkage rod before removal.



Air filter and air cleaner cover after removal. If she runs I will order a new air filter and pre filter to protect the engine from the fine sand that is my entire yard.



Looks like old gas turned to varnish on the air cleaner bracket.



A heavy coating of varnish on the engine intake pipe.



First look into the throat of the carburetor. Looks like a bit of mess! Let's see if we can clean it up and make it work again.



The carburetor disassembled. It's a mess but nothing too awful.



This is a non adjustable type Tecumseh carb. Evil things. Thank you EPA.

Carburetor after cleaning.



float and pin after cleaning. The brass is tarnished but the float is not full of gas.



The float bowl nut. This little bugger was full of black like tar or varnish. I spent over an hour cleaning this little guy up.



Carb after cleaning and reassembly. Just cleaning the little passages in the side of the carb with a twist tie wire.



In part 3 we'll examine the old fuel line and filter and install the new gas line and filter.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:05:49 PM
Railroads Railroads is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

The old fuel line and filter. The hose was brittle and cracked in places.



The old filter plugged solid. No fuel is getting through there at all.



New fuel line connected to carb and carb installed on engine. A look at the clean air filter bracket ready for reinstalling the filter.



The other end of the new fuel line connected to new fuel filter and connected to new fuel petcock.



In part 4 we will be wrapping up this project by tightening the spark plug and changing the oil and then starting the new generator for the first time after repairing it.

---------- Post added at 11:05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50:39 PM ----------

Part 4, Wrapping up with a tightening of the spark plug, changing oil, and the big moment of truth. The first test fire of the new generator.

The LR5000T came with a new spark plug but wasn't tightened.

Tightening supplied new spark plug. (Thanks Steve)



Changing the oil. What horror story will pulling the oil drain plug reveal? The oil drain trough was made by my dad 20 years ago for his home made DC generator. Without it the oil would have to just drain on the ground because of the way that machine was designed. It's a priceless piece of engineering that I will keep until I die. I will be cleaning up this little gem and painting it sometime this summer.



Oil as it pools in the drain pan. Not sure what the heck is all in it to be honest? Looks like rust and maybe a little water or fuel contamination.



New oil going in after re-installing the oil drain plug.



Oil showing on the full mark on the dip stick. 1 full quart of 10w-30 conventional oil.



In part 5 we will be starting the new generator for the first time. Will she run or blow up? Lets find out in the next installment.

Last edited by Railroads; 05-26-2019 at 11:30:00 AM.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:49:12 PM
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Part 5. Test run and conclusion.

On the first start the HM100 ran really rough and spit and backfired. I can only assume this was caused by unseen crap in the carburetor passages. I am no fan of these non adjustable carburetors. Basically they are meant to be thrown away and replaced once cruddy.

As I let the generator run and warm up the hunting/surging and backfiring finally settled down. Or so I thought.

Not quite up to speed at this point. Running really rough and crappy. Voltage reflects the poorly running engine at this point. ( I like to use a cheapo meter on generators of unknown condition) I don't want to blow up my good meters if something goes completely off the rails.



As I bent down to take this picture, I almost pee'd myself. The engine made one hell of a pop out the muffler. I thought for a second she blew up. I've heard the tales of the Tecumseh self destruct mode, but have never had one blow up. Scared the f'ing bejesus out of me. I guess only could be compared to a shotgun blast next to your ear.

Engine finally calming down and voltage going up a little. Light bulb finally steadied too.



At this point it's run maybe 5 minutes.

Time to connect my two load banks totaling 2500 watts.

Load Bank A.



Load Bank B.



After running for 20 minutes load bank B suddenly crapped out. I had to switch back to my handy 100 watt light bulb to steady the generator.

Both of these heaters have had their thermostats by-passed for load banking. I will have to dig into the failed load bank to see what popped.

I've noticed under light loading or loading on only one side of the winding set that these portable generators just run like crap. They hunt and surge a little and sometimes like to pop out the muffler. The Tecumseh engines never did run very smoothly to start with, but the two pole generator design seems to amplify the problem.

At this point I let the LR5000T run for a good hour under the 95 degree blazing heat of the day. With both windings loaded the generator seems to run as smoothly as can be expected for a Tecumseh two pole screamer.

I did notice the carburetor could use new bushings as they are brittle and cracked around the choke and throttle shafts. This could be causing the engine to run a bit rough as the mixture could be off just a little.

If I can't find replacement parts in the form of a rebuild kit, I might just opt to replace the carburetor. OEM carbs seem to be available for about $89 dollars. Probably can get aftermarket carburetors even cheaper off Amazon. I just don't know if they are any good???

I am going to replace the air filter cartridge and install the new pre filter to try and better protect the engine from the sandy environment. Sand will wear the cylinder and valve train fairly quickly.

I noticed the 120 volt 20 amp outlet is corroded inside and doesn't make a good connection. I believe I will be trying to get the rusted endbell bolts off and replacing the outlet. I might replace the L14-20 with a new one at the same time. While I have the endbell off, I will re grease the bearing and inspect the brushes/clean the slip rings.

My plan is to use a my 4 wire 20 amp SOOW L14-20 cable to run the generator into a transfer switch. Guess I need to find the time to install the new transfer switch. Hmm, I wonder when I will get around to doing that? It's not essential, but would simplify connecting the generator during a Hurricane.

Installing wheels is a must addon/upgrade. This thing is every bit the bear to move around. It's heavy as heck! I've got 6 heavy duty castor wheels and will be installing 4 of them shortly.

I'm contemplating installing the low tone muffler, but can't quite get past the ridiculous price they want for it considering how little it actually muffles the noise. Most of which is mechanical noise.

I'm also trying to decide if it would be better to convert this generator to propane since propane is easier to store and less likely to go bad? The economics of running on propane fuel vs gasoline doesn't really make propane all that attractive. On the side of fuel not going bad though propane has the edge. Tecumseh L head engines don't particularly like running on dry fuels like propane. They tend to destroy the valve seats since the top of the engine is not getting any lubrication from the fuel.

If I use small 30 lb tanks, I would have to store 30 propane tanks. Assuming I run the generator for 2 hours every 4 hours to keep the fridge and freezer cold I would still only have enough fuel for a week. But barely, assuming the generator runs 2 hours to a gallon. That would rule out running the generator for longer times to keep the 10,000 BTU A/C running which is part of the plan for this LR5000T.

Price around here would put filling those tanks at $300 dollars on top of the price of the conversion kit and ordering all the propane tanks. I think I would have the price of an Onan or diesel generator in short order. That money would be better spent on stock piling gasoline. The idea of running propane fuel has some merit, but the economics just don't work in the long run.

I want to extend my gratitude to Mr Dawkins for offering the Homelite to the stak and for going out of his way on his trip during the Thanksgiving holiday to drop it off in Lawrenceville Va. I want to apologize though for the ridiculous amount of time it has taken me to get this write up done. I did promise that I would do a write up on the repairs and I have finally gotten around to it through all the other distractions and nonsense.

I really enjoyed working on this project and had a lot of fun working on the generator and doing the write up for the stak.

Robert

Last edited by Railroads; 05-29-2019 at 03:54:00 PM.
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Old 05-26-2019, 01:03:10 AM
Vanman Vanman is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Pretty cool. There is something about seeing a bulb lit by a small, local generator that has pulled at me for most of my life.

To be fair, the engine cannot tell which generator winding is creating the load.

But, sounds like it's a little lean when cold, since it ran better when warmed up. The leaky throttle shaft and / or other vacuum leaks will make it hunt and run crappy, especially at light load, due to being lean.

If you can straighten that out, and it still isn't quite right, I suppose you could ever so slightly enlarge the main jet. Since we know they have it set on the ragged edge of too lean.

Keith

Last edited by Vanman; 05-26-2019 at 01:45:03 AM. Reason: Typos - n - stuff...
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:25:53 AM
Railroads Railroads is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Keith, I agree about seeing a bulb lit by a small, local generator.

The engine cannot tell which winding is under load per say. However, The changes in magnetic field might play a role? This is the conclusion I come to anyways.

The running like crap is no doubt because of the non adjustable type carburetor being on the lean side. Truth betold, I am going to keep an eye out for a fully adjustable carb for a 10hp Tecumseh generator engine.

Interestingly, I did try to remove the cover of this little adjustment screw to back out the screw one turn. The problem is though the screw unwinds it's self and falls out. There is nothing to stop it from unwinding? The drawing also doesn't show a spring, nor is there a spring present to stop the screw from backing out?



Robert
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Old 05-26-2019, 11:45:58 AM
Wayne 440 Wayne 440 is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Railroads View Post
...I did try to remove the cover of this little adjustment screw to back out the screw one turn. The problem is though the screw unwinds it's self and falls out. There is nothing to stop it from unwinding?...
Get it set where you want it and then apply a dollop of silicone to it. After it sets up, it won't back out, but can be broken loose if need be.
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:05:10 PM
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

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Originally Posted by Wayne 440 View Post
Get it set where you want it and then apply a dollop of silicone to it. After it sets up, it won't back out, but can be broken loose if need be.
Wayne, Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about some thread locker or super glue, but didn't want to use something that would prevent removing the adjustment screw later. Silicone sounds like the best choice.

Engine model number is HM100 159423P (c)
Family WTPX5.3582BA

Carburetor #640152A

Supposedly rebuild kit #632760B fits. Still researching the proper rebuild kit for this model carburetor.

Robert

Last edited by Railroads; 05-26-2019 at 12:44:39 PM.
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:19:32 PM
Steve Dawkins Steve Dawkins is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Robert, I'm glad to see that you were able to resurrect the old Homelite, and can put it to good use. You did a great job of documenting the repairs.

That generator was given to me by my ex-wife and her husband. It had been in their storage shed for years, and wouldn't start when they needed it. They bought a new one. Remembering all the generators I got, bought, fixed, and sold while we were married, my ex called and asked if I would be interested in that one. When I arrived to pick it up, her hubby had it standing on its end, wth the recoil starter facing the ground. He told me that it would leak gas if he turned it upright. (as noted in your photos of the disintegrated grommet in the bottom of the fuel tank.) I remember the gas smelled extremely stale, and figured extensive fuel system work would be needed.

Originally, I intended to fix the Homelite and give it to my daughter. After moving it around a bit by myself and knowing how loud it would be once it got running, I decided that generator wasn't a good fit for her. As you mentioned, it is heavy enough that it needs wheels or casters to move it around. Also, her yard backs up to three other lots and the houses are close together. Her neighbors would not be happy listening to the noise for an extended time. I will try to find a generator that she can move around relatively easy, and will have a quiet muffler. Maybe I will run across something like a 2500-3500 watt Honda or Honda clone.

Although the trip to Lawrenceville took me on a different path than the one we normally take between Va. Beach and Roanoke, it was a nice change of scenery and really didn't take much longer than the usual route. I remember passing by the Lawrenceville exit on Rt 58 years ago when we used to go camping at Kerr Dam/Lake Gaston. I always enjoyed camping there. Kerr Dam is a hydroelectric plant that is owned and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers. They also own and operate the campground that is adjacent to the dam. Years ago, the ACOE used to give free tours of the hydroelectric plant. An elevator would take you from ground level to below where the penstocks came through the wall of the dam. You could walk under the penstocks that were (1) 7 ft. and (2or3) 20 ft. diameter IIRC, and then go up to the various levels that had the turbines, governors, drive shafts, and eventually the main generator floor. The 7 ft. penstock fed a small generator that only provided power for the dam, and the 20 ft. penstocks fed the main generators. I don't know if that tour is still offered, but it sure was interesting. I also toured Hoover Dam before and after the 9-11 attacks. The pre 9-11 tour was much more interesting, as they would allow you into most of the areas. The post 9-11 tour is much more restrictive, only allowing you to view the generator room from an observation deck at the end of the room. Much of the tour is done at a visitor center, with photos and mock-ups.

Sorry for my digression on the dams. While writing this post on Memorial Day, it made me think of the number of years that I camped at Kerr Dam over the Memorial Day weekend, and all the good times we used to have.

Robert, I hope the Homelite serves you well. On the other hand, I hope you only use it for tinkering and brief power interruptions. I sincerely hope you never need it for extended power outages caused by severe storms or hurricanes. Regardless, it will be comforting to you to know that it's there and ready if needed.

Steve
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Old 05-27-2019, 02:49:28 PM
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Hey Railroads, I will look later for a part number for the adjustable version of your carburetor for your hm100 Tecumseh engine, also double check on the main jet / carb bowl nut, right next to one of the threads there is a very small angled hole/jet hole, that is very difficult to see, and can be cleaned out with a single wire strand from 12 or 14 gauge stranded THHN type wire, that jet hole is very hard to see for most people, when they clean Tecumseh carburetors unless they know about that hole, on the side of the "bowl nut" threads.

Also one tip, that I have about marking the throttle linkage hole in the carburetor, is Market with a diamond scribe or a electric engraver, or some other indelible/solvent proof way, she don't accidentally remove your permanent marker mark, when you spray the carb down with carb cleaner or dip it, in a bowl of carb cleaner. Just my two cents.

Also double-check that the generator "end bell" bearing (needle/roller type) has enough grease in it, it's under the little rectangular cover for the brushes are, while you're at it you might as well take the end bell cover off, and flush out the old, grease and pack it with good grease, because if that bearing ever gets warm / hot, it will melt the plastic end cover of the generator head, and let the rotor fall into the stator, trashing the whole thing, and even if it doesn't melt that much, those end bell covers are in NLA, also FYI, your home light is basically just a rebadged coleman Powermate generator.

Also Railroads, Thanks for sharing your posts!
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Old 05-27-2019, 03:17:01 PM
Railroads Railroads is offline
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Dawkins View Post
Robert, I'm glad to see that you were able to resurrect the old Homelite, and can put it to good use. You did a great job of documenting the repairs.

That generator was given to me by my ex-wife and her husband. It had been in their storage shed for years, and wouldn't start when they needed it. They bought a new one. Remembering all the generators I got, bought, fixed, and sold while we were married, my ex called and asked if I would be interested in that one. When I arrived to pick it up, her hubby had it standing on its end, wth the recoil starter facing the ground. He told me that it would leak gas if he turned it upright. (as noted in your photos of the disintegrated grommet in the bottom of the fuel tank.) I remember the gas smelled extremely stale, and figured extensive fuel system work would be needed.

Originally, I intended to fix the Homelite and give it to my daughter. After moving it around a bit by myself and knowing how loud it would be once it got running, I decided that generator wasn't a good fit for her. As you mentioned, it is heavy enough that it needs wheels or casters to move it around. Also, her yard backs up to three other lots and the houses are close together. Her neighbors would not be happy listening to the noise for an extended time. I will try to find a generator that she can move around relatively easy, and will have a quiet muffler. Maybe I will run across something like a 2500-3500 watt Honda or Honda clone.

Although the trip to Lawrenceville took me on a different path than the one we normally take between Va. Beach and Roanoke, it was a nice change of scenery and really didn't take much longer than the usual route. I remember passing by the Lawrenceville exit on Rt 58 years ago when we used to go camping at Kerr Dam/Lake Gaston. I always enjoyed camping there. Kerr Dam is a hydroelectric plant that is owned and operated by the Army Corps of Engineers. They also own and operate the campground that is adjacent to the dam. Years ago, the ACOE used to give free tours of the hydroelectric plant. An elevator would take you from ground level to below where the penstocks came through the wall of the dam. You could walk under the penstocks that were (1) 7 ft. and (2or3) 20 ft. diameter IIRC, and then go up to the various levels that had the turbines, governors, drive shafts, and eventually the main generator floor. The 7 ft. penstock fed a small generator that only provided power for the dam, and the 20 ft. penstocks fed the main generators. I don't know if that tour is still offered, but it sure was interesting. I also toured Hoover Dam before and after the 9-11 attacks. The pre 9-11 tour was much more interesting, as they would allow you into most of the areas. The post 9-11 tour is much more restrictive, only allowing you to view the generator room from an observation deck at the end of the room. Much of the tour is done at a visitor center, with photos and mock-ups.

Sorry for my digression on the dams. While writing this post on Memorial Day, it made me think of the number of years that I camped at Kerr Dam over the Memorial Day weekend, and all the good times we used to have.

Robert, I hope the Homelite serves you well. On the other hand, I hope you only use it for tinkering and brief power interruptions. I sincerely hope you never need it for extended power outages caused by severe storms or hurricanes. Regardless, it will be comforting to you to know that it's there and ready if needed.

Steve
Hi Steve, I'm glad you enjoyed my write up. I had a lot of fun working on this project. I just wish it didn't take me so long to get around to doing the write up.

I believe your daughter would be quite happy with a Honda EU series as they are quiet and easy to maneuver. This LR5000T is very heavy and very loud. After tinkering with the engine, I was deaf for a while from the noise. It amazes me how loud these portable generators can be. certainly can get on your nerves after a while if the power was out for a couple days!

I got to see a 4hp diesel portable unit running a while ago, it is just as loud as the gas powered generators. I would have thought the little Yanmar would be quieter than a Tecumseh 8 or 10HP. Nope! Just as loud and annoying to be around for any length of time.

The HM100 seems to be in near perfect condition and should run for a long time if taken care of. The generator end I want to service, the 120v outlet is bad and the plastic end bell is similar to the Coleman generators. It's important to make sure the bearing is clean and properly greased.

I'm lucky in that I only loose power maybe once a year outside of Hurricane season. Disruptions are very rare events thankfully.

I'm glad you enjoyed the change of scenery on your trip to Lawrenceville. It's always nice to take a different route once in while.

I've got no issues with the dams. I find them very interesting subjects. I've always been interested in hydro power and have wanted to have a place with good flowing water to experiment with micro hydro. I will be looking into the dam on Kerr Lake as it sounds like a neat place to visit. If it's still open to the public.

turtmaster, Thank you for looking up the part numbers for the carburetor. I am probably going to leave the stock one and just replace the cracked bushings around the throttle and choke shafts. I've never been one to change things if not necessary.

I do want to make one change though, I want to replace the brass float with the plastic version. Solves the ethanol fuel problem of the solder being eaten and the float flooding with fuel.

Looks like plastic float is part #632816

I am quite aware of that little hole in the bowl nut. I made sure it was clean and then checked it three more times. It's very easy to miss that little hole if you've never worked on a Tecumseh carburetor though.

Yes, The bearing is going to get checked out when I get the end bell off. This generator doesn't have the rectangular cover over the brushes. The brushes are inside the end bell requiring the removal of the end bell to get at them. They are like the Delco Remy alternator style configuration. The bearing has a little protrusion with a plastic cover, but the cover doesn't want to come off. I am not sure if they are supposed to pop off or not?

I can't seem to find any Homelite documentation on the web for this specific machine in the form of a parts break down or owners manual? The generator portion though is in my Clymer Generators Vol 2 and is a complete break down drawing.

I am always reluctant to remove them end bells as they are easy to break if you over tighten the bolts. I don't like plastic parts on machinery of this caliber. It's fine for things like electronics, TV, computers and in cars to a certain degree. I never understood the concept of using the plastic ends? I guess Coleman was looking to save a few dollars.

Robert

Last edited by Railroads; 05-27-2019 at 03:47:10 PM.
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:07:16 PM
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

Railroads, your Homelite generator is essentially "identical" to a Coleman Powermate maxa 5000er, model number PM0525202.0X, "X" meaning could be a "1, 2, or a 3" depending on the model revision.

it's no trouble for me to look it up, as I had the above-listed Coleman Powermate generator, and for some reason the model number still sticks in my head

"If" I am correct, for an adjustable carb for your hm100, in a generator application, should be a part number, 632697., Look on Amazon or Ebay for a carburetor, some of the other hm100 carburetors available on the internet, have a different choke lever arrangement, for use on snow blowers and Etc.
It took a little looking around to be able to find, because I was having a hard time finding the Tecumseh engine spec number, for the older model hm100 engines, with adjustable carbs, used on generators.

Also on the chinese-made aftermarket Tecumseh carburetors, with the adjustable Main and idle Jets, at least in my case of one of the carburetors that I had ordered, was almost at the correct mixture with the main and idle jets fully closed, I just had to open them maybe an 1/8 to a 1/4 of a turn, don't ask me how they manufactured it like that, but "if" they did it on purpose, my only thinking would be so somebody couldn't lean out the engine too much / makeing the engine not start/run, with someone not knowing what a mixture adjustment screw is.

When you change the 120-volt outlet, make sure you break off the "dual circuit" "break off" tab, on the side of the outlet, on the "hot side", so you don't toast your generator by shorting out the 240-volt line.

Also make DARN sure to keep oil level checked especially on these tecumseh's, more so than normal, "oil problems" are the main reasons why tecumseh engines have a bad reputation for throwing the rod.

My two cents is, to use 10w30 (synthetic if you feel), or a 5w30 full synthetic (I would say if you want to use a 5w30 in the summertime, make sure it is a "FULL synthetic oil") or 15w40 the summertime, or if you really want, straight 30W oil, in the summertime, just please make REALLY DARN SURE, that you change it out to a lighter weight oil in the winter time, way before the weather gets cooler, just whatever you do, do not use straight SAE30 (30W), in cold weather ("in my opinion", cold weather for generator is anything under around-ish ~40,45° degrees f.) Cold weather, according to Tecumseh, is 32° degrees f.
Owner's manual recommends 25 hour oci's.

If you want, in my opinion, I wouldn't have problems (feelings, type, not talking about engine problems) running for longer oil change intervals, somewhere like in the neighborhood of, maybe ~50-75, maybe 100 hour oci's, with a good high quality full synthetic oil, during long power outages (but that may be pushing it too much, but maybe not too bad, as in some people don't seem to have too many problems after running their generators for days at a time, AS LONG as they keep the oil topped up, because, how many people are actually changing the oil in there older Tecumseh and Briggs engines, EVERY SINGLE DAY? In a power outage situation, let alone every year, And they "seem" to "last" okay-ish.) But it's up to you, on the oil you use, and when you decide to change it, and the "risks" that you take when pushing the oci's.

If you do plan on doing longer oci intervals, ONLY, after the sludge is very WELL flushed out, after several short oci's (meaning coming out, something like very dark honey-colored, "standard of clean".

I would say another decent oil, is Mobil1 0w-40,
At least in a Honda screamer generator,
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1493643

Sorry for the excessively long, information overload, post , just trying to be helpful, if you want me to shut my mouth more, I can, just tell me in a PM .
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Old 05-27-2019, 07:51:36 PM
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Default Re: Homelite LR5000T (Steve Dawkins)

turtmaster, I got to the point of memorizing the numbers of my Coleman 4000 Maxa. PM0524000. I still have the generator, I have to get the valve seats cut and do a lapping/clearance job on it. Seen a lot of use in the construction industry before I got it. A figure it was someone's "everyday" use generator.

Thanks for the part numbers. I will look into the availability of the carburetors. Not a fan of the Chinese crap. I like to try and find OEM Tecumseh parts when working on them. Getting harder though, since Tecumseh is out of the business.

I'm familiar with breaking off the tab on the hot side. It's always good to offer a reminder though.

Oil change intervals, That is a interesting subject matter along with what type of oils to use. I like to use 10w-30 we get very hot and humid weather during the summer months. Upper 90's and humid as hell is the norm. I'm just an hour from the ocean. I had heard 40 weight oil is too heavy for a Tecumseh engine? Everyone seems to recommend the 10w-30 oil. I think the reason might be 10w-30 is fine for our summers and winters. I don't really read into a lot of stuff about oil and what to use. I just use what I like to use for summer and winter.

If there is a storm coming, I go and get a case of oil. Usually Super Tech (Walmart) 10w-30. If I need to run on generator power during a hurricane, I plan on having to change the oil 40 hours of run time. I figure 6 quarts is enough since, I will likely run out of fuel before oil. Briggs recommends something like 50 hour intervals. I just don't trust Tecumseh engines enough to run longer than 40/45 hours.

I don't have a problem with long posts, I feel it's putting information out there for the next guy who comes along in the future. I might already know the material we're discussing, but the next fellow probably doesn't know any of this information at all. For me, Its about helping those who come after me, by leaving behind enough bread crumbs for them to figure out what they really need to know.

Robert
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