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Maytag Engine Collectibles

Autolite 3095 Plug


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  #1  
Old 09-17-2017, 02:32:09 PM
shiftlessguy shiftlessguy is offline
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Default Autolite 3095 Plug

Ya I've had some issues with the auto plug.Spend a couple of hours trying to start my 92.Couldnt get it to fire more than 3 times.Ended up gettin a new one.Started first kick!Then cleaned up the old one and she piped rite off.So have a spare round.
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:46:33 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: autolite 3095 plug

Encountered the same thing, No rhyme or reason. Some engines will run forever on one, some seem to foul one quickly. Don't think it's plug related, just the natrue of some beast. Not a real problem as you can get those from most O'Rileys, and others, I'm sure. Which reminds me, I've got a troublesome 92, I may get a BRAND New one and try in it, rather than one I've bead blasted.
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:01:50 PM
shiftlessguy shiftlessguy is offline
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Default Re: autolite 3095 plug

Next up fer me is to run my Maytag 72,them my FBM Z.I would like Ta get a 4 stroke h/m not a big one though.Keep the smoke goin!
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:08:04 PM
DustyBar DustyBar is offline
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Default Re: autolite 3095 plug

I'm somewhat skeptical of the new spark plugs. I've noticed many of them no longer have a glazing coating on the center electrode insulator. They are glazed on the upper, external, portion but not the internal portion. I've seen bead blasting remove the glazing and in my opinion causing them to foul easier. I think the new plugs may have the same early fouling problem.
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:13:44 PM
shiftlessguy shiftlessguy is offline
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Default Re: autolite 3095 plug

I soak them in either carb clean or chem-dip.Blasting rounds the center tip.Just my .02
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:23:18 PM
Pat Barrett Pat Barrett is offline
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Default Re: autolite 3095 plug

Dusty, I think you are correct. Some of these engines don't have magnificent fire and the least bit of fowling will render the motor not running. I may even see if I've got an old Long Reach plug, like Maytag put in them originally, to make this one run.
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Old 09-17-2017, 10:33:22 PM
uglyblue66 uglyblue66 is offline
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Default Re: autolite 3095 plug

I was getting my 3095's from the local Advance Auto years back. No problems. I was going to drive the Model T ton truck in a local parade and wanted to make sure I had good plugs so for 1.95 each I got 4 new 1's and put them in. I ran the parade and had a issue I wanted to tend to so I put the truck in the shop. Left it idling and I watched liquid squirt out between the porcelain and metal and wondered what the heck was wrong. I mean 50 pounds or so of compression on a 20 hp engine,it should not be able to blow stuff out the plugs.
I looked at the box and the country of manufacturer was no longer the US, it is Mexico.
I still have 4 US 1's in boxes for my speedster once I get it ready.
I took those 4 plugs back and have not bought any more.

Maytags run kinda rich on oil. It might be best to look around for you a take apart plug from the time period and use it.

And yes, the lack of glazing is a major issue that causes fouling. But hey, they get to sell more plugs that way.
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Old 09-19-2017, 06:39:15 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: Autolite 3095 Plug

Crap E-10 gas will cause a short undr compression. The plug companies know that glazing costs money. Non-glazed plugs will foul faster, thus you sell more plugs! DUH Yes your best bet is to buy ate older take apart plugs. Easier to clean and re-usable. With Champion, on the uprughts and 82 and 92 versions, the #34 Gas Engine Special or the Maytag plug actually made for them by Champion work best. You can get away with the champion X if you have to. Stay away from the A-25, especially the later one piece - they foul in a hurry. As for these engines, if you are just idling (no load) the plug will not get hot enough to self clean. They will foul eventually. In this case, when I am near the end of s days running, I put a load on the engine to the point where it is hitting nearly all the time. I rurn the fuel needle in so that the engine just begins to slow a bit, and hold the load for about 2 or 3 minutes. Then the fuel is shut off. This causes the plug to get real hot and burn off the carbon. You might even get red hot carbon sparks out the exhaust! You will have clean plugs though.

As for the 72 twins, if run unloaded, set the carb for best running, then loosen the air cap until the engine JUST begins to slow. If loaded, set for best running and leave it at that. I use either the original Maytag plug or the older J-8. If I use new plugs, the J-17 or 19 LM will work as well. Do not use the new J-8 or resister plugs - you will damage the coils.

Uglyblue66, I too have had the autolites with sealing problems, and not just the 3095s! My son had a ford bronco, and he told me he blew out a spark plug. Turns out it was just the insulator blowing out of the base! Put in a replacement, no more problem. Yes, the one that blew out was Mexican. The insulator has a copper gasket between it and the base. The insulator is placed within the base and then the base is crimped with a press to seal the assembly. If the operator is not paying attention, or if the machine gets out of calibration, you get leaks. No quality control either! Costs too much
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