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Maytag Engine Collectibles Maytag engines, washing machines, mowers and other engine driven tools for the farm.

Maytag Engine Collectibles

Maytag Oil Mix


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  #21  
Old 07-20-2010, 06:48:03 PM
Mark Shulaw Mark Shulaw is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

While I am testing prototype coils running them for days. I am studying and testing oils as well. Started with 30 W non detergent. Its been the nastyest oil so far. Seemed to lubricate ok but it has serious yuckys compared to the other two cycles tested since. I am planning to try as many two cycles as I can. Will give a run down on all I test when done. Mark
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  #22  
Old 08-03-2010, 10:13:25 AM
cheddarhead cheddarhead is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I use the 2cycle mix 16:1 too. Because back in the day there was no such thing as 2cycle oil so they used 30 weight. BUT 30 WEIGHT DOES NOT MIX WITH GAS VERY GOOD AS 2 CYCLE OIL. since 30 weight doesnt mix well with gas the bears and cylinder isnt getting oiled as good as 2 cycle would.
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  #23  
Old 08-08-2010, 03:57:27 PM
Toolbender Toolbender is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Thought I had read here it was ok to run Coleman fuel? Am running 1 part generic 30w nondetergent to every 16 part of Coleman. I use a clear container for mixing and the oil appears to suspend well... is this a mistake?
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  #24  
Old 08-08-2010, 04:06:28 PM
smgussey smgussey is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I am running Coleman fuel in my 92 Maytag and haven't had a problem yet... So far a couple of tankfuls mixed 16:1 with SAE 30 non-detergent oil.
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2010, 05:28:37 PM
cheddarhead cheddarhead is offline
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Angry Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Quote:
Originally Posted by Connor Hofford View Post
Hi, what is the best amount of oil to add to one gallon of gas on a Maytag? It's been so long since I mixed the gas that I forgot the mix.
The best is regular 2 cycle oil with 16:1. NOT 30 WEIGHT! 30 weight doenst mix well with gas, 2 cylce oil does
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  #26  
Old 01-19-2011, 12:23:38 PM
wvsky wvsky is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I've been watching a series of entertaining and enlightening videos on YouTube that I'm sure most of you have already seen.

This comment caught my eye where the guy is putting a piston in the head and states that he only uses 30 w because he wants the rings to seat properly. He says that in the past when he used "expensive" oils, the rings wouldnt seat properly. In other words, 30 w allows much more wear than newer oils. So between Marks findings and this guys, I'd say you have your answer!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZowJE...eature=related
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:58:11 PM
hih0rse hih0rse is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Nice discussion. Can you say something about, what are best crankcase lubes to use? I was wondering if an oil cup could be put on the crankcase seal bolt, or whatever it is called. Maybe even pressurize it? Sort of like, pressurize the crankcase with lubricant. It doesnt look hard to do, but since havent seen it done, maybe there is something im missing.
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  #28  
Old 01-19-2011, 04:26:55 PM
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Forrest A Forrest A is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

I prefer modern two stroke oils over the straight weight stuff. The modern oils burn instead of slobbering all over and smoke less once the engine is up to temp (even when cold). I have used synthetic oils for many years in my old 92 without any adverse affects. Also, more oil in a two stroke mix means a leaner gas mixture, something to keep in mind.
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  #29  
Old 01-21-2011, 04:55:51 PM
Mark Shulaw Mark Shulaw is offline
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Default Re: Maytag Oil Mix

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Originally Posted by Forrest A View Post
I prefer modern two stroke oils over the straight weight stuff. The modern oils burn instead of slobbering all over and smoke less once the engine is up to temp (even when cold). I have used synthetic oils for many years in my old 92 without any adverse affects. Also, more oil in a two stroke mix means a leaner gas mixture, something to keep in mind.
Hi Forrest, More oil in the gas of older engines like a Maytag is not quite the issue as in a Modern two stroke. But you are so right, modern Engine oil mix ratios should be strictly adheared to for the best overall results. This mostly due to the very small dimensions of carburation orifaces by comparrison to the old engines. The smaller they are the more touchy to changes in fluid viscosity. Mark
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:51:41 AM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Maytag Oil Mix

Straight weight 30 oil will not mix well in gasoline at low temperatures. Neither will 50 wt! When using SAE 30 NON Detergent, you MUST put oil into the fuel, and shake the can well for at least 2 minutes to thoroughly mix the oil and gas. It is advisable to shake the can every time you go to refuel the engine, to make sure the fuel is mixed thoroughly. This goes for the modern stuff too! In colder weather, the mix time is longer, up to 5 minutes! I had a Sears Allstate - Puch motorcyle, that used straight 50 premix fuel. It was a bear to mix the fuel in the winter!
I have seen several saws and other 2 stroke engines burned up, because of fuel/oil settling. Just the other day, my son poured mixed fuel into a Toro power shovel. He looked at the fuel, and said it didn't look right. We found that the modern Toro oil had settled out on the bottom of the fuel can! We had to drain the fuel out of the machine, and flush out the oil in the bottom of the can, and re-mix a batch of fuel for the machine. The original fuel mix was only a week old.
SAE 30 has been used since the early 1920s, if not before. In the older engines, like Maytag, Johnson, Jacobsen and others, it was what was recommended, and is still usable today. I definately would NOT use it in todays engines, as they have a completely different lubrication requirement. As Mark said, the viscosity differences between 30 wt and todays lubes will have a definate effect on the modern engines. The modern lubes also have different additives to allow for different combustion characteristics, such as low ash residue, and high heat lubrication, things not nescessary for low speed engines. Lubrication needs of a high speed engine (16.000 RPM and better), with hardenned roller and needle bearings, chrome moly rings, are much different than an engine with plain bronze bearings, cast iron rings and cylinder, and operating at only around 1,200 RPM!
What is VERY important is the ratio of fuel to oil. Many of the older engines do not have seals on the crank bearings. They depended on the heavier oil/fuel mix to fill the spaces left by nescessary clearances, and lube the bearings. 12:1, 16:1 were common ratios for the old engines. Now days, 40:1, 50:1 and even 100:1 are common ratios used. Use these ratios in an old engine, and you will burn it up in short order! In modern engines, the use of seals and hardenned bearings, allowed for a thinner oil/fuel ratio to do the same job, as loss thru the bearings was minimized with the seals. Yes, Maytags slobber out the exhaust, as do any other engine using a miss cycle as they run, These engines need the miss cycle to allow liquid oil to lubricate the engine. If you load a model 92 engine to the point where it won't miss, using 30 wt oil, you will find it won't slobber, and will smoke very little, once warmed up. It won't foul plugs either! Even the 92 models wont smoke much, if run in a loaded condition. The largest problem is that most engines on display, are not run under load. They simply idle, and are more often than not are set up too rich as well. Engines are made to work. When idled for long periods, they will carbon up, will slobber oil, and will foul plugs, because they are not being worked as they would be when used in equipment for which they were designed. it's the trade off you get for not working the engine.
Andrew
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