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Oil Field Engines A gathering place for OFES members otherwise known as "Oafs". Basically, if you like "BIG OLD GREASY RUSTY OIL FIELD ENGINES, you're in the right place. Founded by Russell Farmer.

Oil Field Engines

12 X15 Cm Ajax


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  #11  
Old 04-20-2007, 07:40:34 PM
Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

A few weeks ago I wanted to drain the water out of her, took out the drain plug and nothing. I opened the covers and the smell was awful. Dead crickets and rats. drained out about eight gallons of water and the slimy oil and smell got to me. I'll clean the rest out later.
Finally got a few days to play with Mother. The folks who moved her the first time broke several things, probably with cable & chains, namely the oiler and check valve on side of head, and some of the housing parts around the crankshaft on the off side. However it looks like they ran into it or dropped it some kind of way driving the crankshaft towards the off side, busting off the heads of the bolts on the main bearing thrust collar It is obvious that this did not occur while running. I was able to move the crankshaft over where it belongs. After about 6 hours of work was able to get one revolution out of her. Had been soaking and tweaking the sideshaft bushings and lubricator eccentric for a few weeks. Took it easy rotating flywheel to make sure everything was cooperating and wouldn't get broken.
So I am in need of a "main bearing thrust collar", # A-1839A it bolts to the bearing supports and holds the bearing races in. I sent an Email to Jimmy Bell, but haven't heard back. Can anyone sell me one of these? Please see pictures.

Thanks,
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2007, 07:59:04 PM
Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

Would some of you tell me what size dial cock (diamond valve) you are using with what horsepower engine?

Thanks,
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2007, 10:23:39 PM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

If you want to run it at its rated speed and load, you'll probably need a 1 3/4 to 2" valve with 8 to 10 ounces or more of propane pressure and a large volume tank and big regulators. However, if you run it unloaded or lightly loaded, a 1" valve is big enough. I have had no problem running large engines with no volume tank using a 1/4" ball valve on the propane line with a small adjustable regulator.
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  #14  
Old 05-01-2007, 09:58:42 AM
Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

I would like some more replies if you will share your experiences about the Diamond valve, (dial cock).
And more questions if you please. My manual says the oiler has 4 oil plungers, and indeed it does. The manual also states that it oils the "cylinders"? And the governor. Ok two lines go to the cylinder, and one to the governor, the fourth plunger on the oiler has no line and I would like to know where it should go
Also the oil level sight glass assembly is gone, and I need to know the oil level. Like maybe half way up from the drain to the bottom of the hand hole?
Thanks Patrick, was able to run it that way for a few licks yesterday till the tank froze up. Chuff.............Chuff...........Chuff.....CHUFF. ...Bang...Bang...Bang...Bang. SO much fun
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:02:36 PM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

The "cylinders" may refer to a twin cylinder engine, or it may be that your larger engine had 2 or more oil lines going to the cylinder. I have several Ajax DP 115s which are 13 1/4 X 16 bore & stroke, and they all have three 1/8" NPT oil inlets on the cylinder. They are located at 10, 12, and 2 o'clock positions when looking at the head end of the cylinder and located toward the rear about where the intake ports are. On the newer engines, there are three oil lines going to the cylinder, and on two of the older engines, there is only one line going to the oil hole at the 12 0'clock position, with the other two being plugged. All of these engines have a check valve at each location where the oil line is attached to the cylinder. The oil level in the pump oiler box can be from about 1/2 full to about 1" below the top. Many of these oilers were hooked to a larger oil tank and had a float to keep them full of oil at all times. The cam box on the sideshaft needs to be about half full of oil or a little less. On the DP 115 engines, the original factory gas inlet fitting, which also has a throttle valve in it that the governor operates, is 1 1/2" NPT. An RV-type propane bottle, which holds about 25 gallons, should run your engine with no load on it for a long time without freezing.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:48:13 PM
Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

Thanks Patrick, I think that solves the mystery. Although my manual is for a CM it is for a larger engine than mine 13 1/4 bore probably 50 HP. Guess I have a 45 horse. Although my oiler appears to a novice to have 4 pumps, I think the last one is a float device with a murphy switch that probably went to the mag. What about the oil level in the crankcase, I'm thinking even with, or a little below the bottom of the crankshaft support castings on each side? The book shows a sight glass there but mine is gone. The air damper is missing from the air cleaner, so I removed the whole thing and bolted a piece of plywood to the air intake flange and left only about 5% open. Brazed a 1/2 in pipe to a home made flange, 1/2" ball valve, bolted it to the throttle valve port that goes to the mixer valve. Turned on the gas about one third, rocked the flywheel back and forth twice like the book says, turned on the mag, pulled the flywheel back and she starts every time. She wants to run fast up to about 120 rpm till the gas won't keep up, mixture goes lean and backfires. Now all the neighbors know about Mother.
Was able to cut gas back a little and get pretty good running about 60 rpm she would hit once then not two or three revolutions, the hit again. She would backfire every now and then, I guess from lean mixture. I think I'll close off the air intake some more.
Discovered something terrible though The crankshaft is bent, has 3/4" run-out at end, makes flywheel wobble 2 3/16" at rim. Flywheel is not bent or cracked. But they must have bent the crank by pulling, hitting, or dropping the flywheel, only way they could have got the leverage. It looks horrible but doesn't shake till about 120 rpm or more.
Well, guess I've talked everyones arms off by now.
Thanks,

Last edited by Bill Geyer; 05-01-2007 at 08:57:59 PM. Reason: forgot to ask about crankcase level
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  #17  
Old 05-01-2007, 10:33:51 PM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

The backfiring could be a lean mixture or late timing. It could also be related to the intake valve, which I assume is a reed valve, sticking, leaking, or having a weak spring or two. The piston rod packing could be leaking, too. I'd experiment with the mixture first before worrying about anything else. I would want to rig up a valve of some kind on the air intake to help with adjusting the mixture/speed. I'm not sure about the crankcase oil level, but too much won't hurt. The connecting rod should dip into the oil around 3" when the rod is at its lowest point with the engine stopped. A DP 115 crankcase takes about 13 gallons of oil, and your engine probably needs about the same. The DP 115s have a dipstick located in the round cover plate at the rear of the crankcase to the right of the breather cap. It has a little round cap that I think is made from a 3/4 pipe cap. That is bad news about the crank being bent. I was worried about that when you mentioned that the bearing retainer was busted. That much damage to the crank may destroy the main bearings and the bearing supports too. It really needs to be straightened or replaced.
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2007, 09:58:33 AM
Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

Thanks Patrick, any ideas on how to straighten it
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2007, 01:56:09 PM
Patrick McNallen Patrick McNallen is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

I'm surprised anyone managed to bend it. I would think it would have to come out of the engine and be put in a supersized press run by someone who knows what they're doing. Heat can be used to straighten cranks, but I don't know if heat alone would be enough to fix that one. Does your engine have sleeve-type main bearings or the double row roller type? Also, what is the diameter of the crankshaft?
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:25:20 PM
Bill Geyer Bill Geyer is offline
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Default Re: 12 X15 Cm Ajax

Yeh, when I first saw all the damage, was worried about the crank or flywheel being bent. But after seeing how big and well everything is made, compared to a farm engine, then with each job I began to tackle, I just forgot about it till it was running and looked up at the flywheel. It's the one with the roller bearings. The crank is very soft on the PTO end, as I found out when dressing the high spots and nicks prior to removing the pulleys and clutch. I haven't put an indicator on it yet but the PTO side appears straight. It sticks out 3' on that side if there were any run out I think it would be obvious. Therefore I believe the crank journal area is true. (That's where farm engines often fail when lifted or handled improperly). Also the gear on the crankshaft that drives the side shaft appears to run true, will eventually check it with a dial indicator. So that is a whole lot of bend right between the gear and the flywheel. I went out and measured the crank OD 2 hours ago now I don't know what it was 4.5" I think.
The oiler was easy enough to remove since they sheared it right off its mounts. It's a McCord. The first sight assembly was bent over about 30 degrees. Managed to straighten the big brass nipple without breaking anything. The oiler works It'll need 2 oil level glasses, and two of those screw on clear plastic covers for the drippers.
It ran a lot better today, I think all that backfiring was debris going through the mixer/one way air valve. The water jacket holds water

Thanks for the help, and listening,
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