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1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration


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  #71  
Old 01-19-2019, 04:45:28 PM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Everyone

Today I finished the grill for the new hood. When I bought the car there was a hood included that did not fit. The story I got was that the original hood was missing and a collector that owns one of the other cars still in existence loaned his hood to have a new front casting made. The front of the hood was originally an aluminum casting. Well a new casting was made, but no allowance was made for the shrinkage of the aluminum. So the new hood was about 3/8" to small all the way around and on top of that the casting was all warped. So I drew the front up in CAD and cut a new front out of 1/4" Thick Aluminum plate on CNC router. The grill it's self is fabricated out of 98 pieces of 30 ga. sheet steel carefully fit together and tig welded to form the grid. The IHC Logo is a bronze casting copied from an Auto Buggy. Even this was not cast from an original part, I made a wood pattern to maintain the correct size.

To all that have posted comments about this project THANK YOU. Keep the comments coming.

LeRoy
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  #72  
Old 01-23-2019, 08:14:35 AM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Everyone

Yesterday I finished work on the oil pan. This engine was never provided with any way to check the oil level in the crankcase. The instruction manual just tells you to drain the oil out and refill every 500 miles. It doesn't even tell you how much oil to put in. While Wendell has the engine torn down he measured the oil level when the pan had enough oil for the rods to dip into the oil. It takes 1 quart of oil in each compartment for the rods to dip in the oil. So I decided to add a petcock with a standpipe in each compartment of the oil pan. As long as you can open the petcock that has the standpipe and get some oil to come out you know there is enough oil in the motor. I talked to a number of old car restorers and this is something some manufacture's did. So right or wrong for what it cost to restore things today I decided to modify the oil pan so the oil level can be checked. The red paint in the pictures is a product I learned about on Harry's. It is sold by Eastwood and it's used to seal engine blocks and smoothen out the internal surfaces to give better oil flow. On the outside of the pan we just blasted it and applied a PPG Clear Coat to preserve the natural aluminum color.

Enjoy the pictures

LeRoy
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  #73  
Old 01-23-2019, 08:25:49 AM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Again

In these pictures you can see the standpipes inside the pan and also the pan is marked showing which petcocks to use to check the oil and which ones to use to drain the oil. The petcocks for draining the oil are original and they are shown in the operator's manual.

LeRoy
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  #74  
Old 01-23-2019, 11:29:34 PM
LCJudge LCJudge is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Leroy, won't the standpipes fill with the slinging out in the crankcase causing you to have to drain a rather significant amount to know if the level it low? I don't know how else you could do it though.
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  #75  
Old 01-25-2019, 06:09:52 PM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Tommy

Believe me that very same thought has been kicked around quite a bit. The standpipes will fill as you suggested. They hold about 2 thimble full of oil. The main goal of these standpipes is to allow draining off the excess oil that will accumulate in the crankcase from the mechanical lubricator. You need a way to know how much oil remains in the pan as you drain off the excess oil. If you completely empty the oil pan it takes a quart of oil in each compartment to get it up to operating level. However as soon as you start the motor the mechanical lubricator starts pumping more oil into each compartment of the oil pan. The lubricator does not pump oil to the bearings it only pumps oil to the compartments in the oil pan.The lubricator holds just over a quart of oil. The instruction book says if the lubricator is adjusted properly the lubricator will need refilled at 500 mile intervals. This is where the standpipes come in all oil above the height of the standpipes will drain out, when the oil stops flowing you know you still have enough oil in the pan to safely run the motor.
It's the best plan we could all agree on to at least have some idea how much oil is in the pan.
LeRoy
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  #76  
Old 01-25-2019, 07:31:46 PM
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OTTO-Sawyer OTTO-Sawyer is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

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Originally Posted by LeRoy IHC View Post

The lubricator holds just over a quart of oil. The instruction book says if the lubricator is adjusted properly the lubricator will need refilled at 500 mile intervals. This is where the standpipes come in all oil above the height of the standpipes will drain out, when the oil stops flowing you know you still have enough oil in the pan to safely run the motor.
It's the best plan we could all agree on to at least have some idea how much oil is in the pan.
LeRoy
Sounds like an Excellent Modification. If the Factory Didn't eventually do it, They Should Have.

Might also drain each compartment into a separate container just see if the Lubricator is pumping the same amount into each of them.
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  #77  
Old 01-26-2019, 10:14:39 AM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Everyone

Just got back from delivering the oil pan and timing chain tensioner brackets to Wendell and snapped a couple of pictures.

This engine has a lot of brass on it and there is still more to be added. evidently they wanted this thing to stand out, because I don't recall any other IHC built engines from the time having this much Brass

Enjoy the pictures

LeRoy
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  #78  
Old 01-31-2019, 04:09:25 AM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Everyone

I have attached pictures of the new casting for the pulley and the old pulley which was badly broken. Seems like the Brass material used to make the original pulley might have been a poor choice, so the new castings was made from Silicon Bronze which is pretty tough stuff and miserable to machine.

Enjoy

LeRoy
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  #79  
Old 01-31-2019, 04:13:05 AM
LeRoy IHC LeRoy IHC is offline
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Default Re: 1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

Hi Again

Wendell just got the Fan Drive Pulley back from having the Friction material bonded on. The next step will be to balance the pulley.

LeRoy
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