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1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe


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  #11  
Old 07-26-2017, 11:46:20 PM
Oldtech Oldtech is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

Yes. The pulley is on front of camshaft. So they could make a crank mechanism . They used this system on 4 and 6 cyl from 1916? To 1930.

---------- Post added at 09:46:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38:02 PM ----------

Steering lock? I think all ive seen had transmission lock. 28 or 29 for steering column lock. High tech engine for the time. Pressure lube. Roller lifters. Maybe dual springs on valves. . Probably best engines GM had which is why they used them in the trucks. Master series had a bigger one.
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Old 07-27-2017, 01:20:09 PM
oldsoldster oldsoldster is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

This one has a lock at the base of the transmission.My '29 has a locking steering column.

Spent some time yesterday cleaning and polishing.Apart from a few scratches,it still shines up nice.
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Old 07-28-2017, 01:24:01 AM
Oldtech Oldtech is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

Is this a U.S. Buick or a McLaughlin Buick?
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2017, 06:25:49 AM
oldsoldster oldsoldster is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

This one's a U.S. Buick.
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Old 08-19-2017, 08:55:50 PM
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldsoldster View Post
This one has a lock at the base of the transmission.My '29 has a locking steering column.

Spent some time yesterday cleaning and polishing.Apart from a few scratches,it still shines up nice.
Got the first running board finished and installed.After much discussion and research on the AACA forum.it was decided that 1925 was the last year Buick used battleship linoleum on it's running boards.
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:44:23 PM
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

IT RUNS !! After cleaning out the entire fuel system and resetting the timing several times to no avail, I decided to check the firing order in the manual.Having owned several Chevy sixes and also checking a couple of sites online,I assumed the firing order was 1-5-3-6-2-4. WRONG.On these models it'e 1-4-2-6-3-5 ! On correcting this,it fired right up and ran like a watch.It was nice to drive it out of the garage under it's own power for the first time.
Now if I can get the vacuum tank working--------
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Old 09-13-2017, 04:53:57 PM
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Craig A Craig A is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

Lordy that's a beautiful car!
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:04:14 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

There is a website for the Stuart vacuum fuel pumps. They don't have parts for the ones used on the old Kohler OHVs but do have ones for autos. If you try to dis-assemble the pump yourself - be VERY careful with the zinc top. Poor quality and VERY BRITTLE! You bust it, its done - no replacements. The float should be nickel plate, and internal pump parts are brass. If not worn, easy to clean with a good carb cleaner. Gaskets are cork, about 1/16" thick.
Andrew
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:07:27 PM
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

You should be able to find vacuum tank instructions on the web. The first thing it will say is that the problem almost certainly isn't the tank. First make certain all the lines including the one to the carb are clear and good luck. Do you have enough gas?
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:44:10 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: 1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

Yes, if you have drained the fuel pump, you MUST prime it or it won't work! There should be either a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe plug in the top. remove it and put in about a pint of gas. Once the engine starts, the pump should work from that point, unless is is gummed or worn.

Simple pump operation: Gas gravity feeds to the carb from the pump reservoir. Intake manifold provides vacuum to the top of the pump. The internal float keeps vacuum out of the reservoir. Once gas level drops, the float drops, allowing intake manifold vacuum into the reservoir, which in turn sucks gas from the tank. This fills the reservoir, the float rises, shuts off vacuum and allows air into the reservoir on the pump. Gas now gravity feeds the carb. Cycle repeats as necessary. If the reservoir is MT, there is no gas to feed the carb, and just cranking or idling the engine will not develop enough vacuum to fill the pump reservoir. If the float is stuck or the valving gummed up, vacuum and air cannot be regulated within the pump. There should be no or little resistance for gas flow to the pump.

You can test flow by doing the following: Remove fuel line from tank to pump. Now, removing the gas tank cap and blowing about 10 PSI of air into the tank, with a rag as a seal, you should see gas coming out of the pump supply, from the tank. No gas, then you have a blockage in the fuel pick up. Next, fill the reservoir on the pump as above. Disconnect fuel line from the carb, you should get gas, gravity fed, to the carb reservoir. No gas - switch or float damage or gummed up in the pump. DO NOT force gas thru the pump itself, it will not work that way, and you may damage the float! If you have gas, see if the needle and seat, as well as the float in the carb are working. If the Stuart pump is working, you will hear an audible click as the float valve assembly works look carefully at the connections on the top of the pump. Fuel in, Vacuum and fuel out should be plainly marked. I have seen pumps with the piping wrong! Check the vacuum piping from the intake. You need a minimum of 10 PSI vacuum at the pump connection, for the pump to work - bad valves will cause an issue
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