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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors.

Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats

McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower


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  #81  
Old 02-03-2015, 12:16:26 AM
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Craig A Craig A is offline
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Thumbs up Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

× 1,000,000 on the corn head grease (Type O).
I've also used it in Rumely first reduction covers and in the transmission of my '25 Dodge car.
There is also a Type OO which is slightly thinner.
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  #82  
Old 02-03-2015, 12:18:43 AM
TSeaberg TSeaberg is offline
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

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Originally Posted by Mark Schneider View Post
I'll be the first to admit that I was not excited about pulling out the transmission to clean the bottom of the gear housing but it worked out for the best. When I removed the input shaft I found there was nothing left of the seal except the spring bouncing around. Remember the discussion about the transmission "reduction shaft" and "constant mesh shaft" back in posts #27,#33, and #37? I had no idea as to the novelty of what was being discussed as I thought all transmissions contained these components more or less. Upon the removal of the gear box it became apparent to me what had been discussed. The 6 cylinder WK-W-40 tractors have a third transmission shaft installed making it a "double" reduction gearbox. This nifty set up allowed IHC to make use of the 22-36 transmission design with an engine that was running 50% faster. The gear whine that was mentioned must have come from the fact that the front set of gears are an overdrive set which drives an underdrive set on the rear of the box.
Here's how the numbers come out on the 3 spd I have:
Front gear set----.806 overdrive
Rear gear set----1.947 underdrive for a net primary gear reduction of 1.57 to 1.....that is 1.57 engine revolutions to 1 of the trans. top shaft.
More interesting math....W-40 1600 rpm divided by 22-36 1050 rpm = 1.52
So it is fairly easy to see that IHC was trying to match the ground speed of the 22-36's. In researching the parts book there are no less than four 3 spd transmission configurations...1 each for the 1600 and 1750 rpm ratings and 1 each for their respective High Speed (7.5 mph) options. The 1750 rpm transmissions use a primary reduction of 1.72 to 1 which undoubtedly helped increase the drawbar pull in the second Nebraska test along with the bump of 150 engine rpms.
After seeing the wretched condition of the tranny seal I decided to replace all the chassis oil seals. This lead to a disastrous attempt to remove a rear wheel which did not end well. So have been replacing seals and cleaning the chassis with more disassembly(!) in preparation for some paint.


If you don't mind sharing what is your process to cleaning up the cast parts in your fourth picture?

Thanks for posting the progress updates!
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  #83  
Old 02-04-2015, 12:50:05 AM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

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Originally Posted by TSeaberg View Post
If you don't mind sharing what is your process to cleaning up the cast parts in your fourth picture? (Post #63)
Nothing complicated...just monotonous and dirty. I use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 2 3/4" twisted wire cup wheel for the vast majority of the buffing. For the larger smooth surfaces I use the larger wire cup wheel. For the tighter corners I use the 3/8" drill with the smaller wire brush attachments. As I came to a bolt head I would remove the bolt, buff the area, and reinstall it. Almost all the old oil leaks were hard and dry and were quite easy to chip away and buff off.

I scrubbed the tub with a wheel brush and mineral spirits and let it air dry in preparation for the paint. I then painted the tractor frame and this is how it turned out.
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  #84  
Old 02-04-2015, 08:42:49 AM
TSeaberg TSeaberg is offline
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

I thought that's what it looked like, but it takes some serious time to cover all that area with a buffing wheel! Thought I could learn a new process.

Thanks!
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  #85  
Old 02-04-2015, 05:19:25 PM
J Ware J Ware is offline
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

Mark, if your interested in keeping the tractor on steel, I have a set of road wheels off a 22-36 that I would be interested in getting rid of. PM me if interested. Jim
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  #86  
Old 02-04-2015, 09:22:08 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

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Originally Posted by TSeaberg View Post
it takes some serious time to cover all that area with a buffing wheel!
Thankfully it is not the size of a Rumely E.

I was in the market for some 7.50 x 20 tri-rib tires and found out they are not popular or cheap. Found this web site and ended up ordering a set from them. The tires were 1/2 the price of the local quotes here. This outfit also has a listing for vintage tractor tires and thought others here would be interested in checking them out.

www.nebraskatire.com
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  #87  
Old 02-06-2015, 04:40:18 PM
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

Mark, Give me a call in the first part of April re a RD engine. I remember Dad pulling one out of an old IH truck a long time ago and it is still in the corner of one of the old storage buildings on the farm. It just may be salvagable. Also, there is what I think is a WK40 sitting around Middle Lake , Sask. Keep in touch if you are interested. I will be returning from sunny Mexico in the latter part of March, Regards, Wayne
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  #88  
Old 02-07-2015, 12:26:49 PM
Mark Schneider Mark Schneider is offline
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

Another progress/problem report here. I was able to get the shortblock painted and attached the rear mounting plate. There was no redrilling necessary to make it fit the RD motor. The stepped FBB alignment dowels (5/8 x 9/16) need to be replaced with the straight 5/8" pins from the RD application. My rear engine mounting plate has been broke in half at some point in the distant past and had been brazed back together. When I cleaned it up and painted it I thought it looked like the pieces had been reattached slightly out of alignment. When I set the assembly in the tub I found out indeed that things are not square. The break also went through the starter hole which is bad because we plan on installing a starter on it since we are too lazy to crank. The best mounting plate is getting saved for the future W-40 project and our extra one has been beat on and has chunks missing. So it's either make this one work or I have to locate another. Time will tell.
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Last edited by Mark Schneider; 02-07-2015 at 02:54:30 PM.
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  #89  
Old 02-08-2015, 09:21:13 PM
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

I have been able to finish the intake/exhaust manifold assembly. As many of you remember I had a .040" gap in the center gasket position in the first test assembly. I had checked into the thicker gasket materials that McMaster-Carr offered but could not come up with the right combination of thicknesses that would give me a .040" difference for the center and end positions. It finally occurred to me that since I was not routing exhaust gas through the preheat box that a .040" steel shim could be fitted and then the manifold gasket material could be the same thickness on the center and end positions. A big thanks to Nebraska Kirk for the Fel-Pro 2499 exhaust gasket suggestion...a 12"x28" sheet of steel reinforced material...less then $10! It worked great! The fasteners in all positions are 7/16" with grade 8 threaded rod being used in the center. I had clamped a piece of bar stock to runner ends for alignment during assembly but found out when I took it to the machine shop that they were badly out of alignment. The machinist must of spent 30 minutes on the sanding table to get the runner ends to clean up.
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Old 02-12-2015, 03:52:06 PM
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Default Re: McCormick WK-40 FBB to Red Diamond RePower

I put together a test assembly to see if the repaired rear engine mount was still straight enough to support starter operation. We had secured a used starter off of an Oliver 88 gas and found that the mounting holes on the starter snout have to be drilled out from 3/8" to 1/2" to accommodate the WK-40 mounting bolts. After rounding the starter hole in the plate out with a die grinder I bolted the starter on and hunted up a battery and some jumper cables. The connections were made and the starter operation was normal with no grinding or binding. That was good enough for me so will be using this mounting plate on the RePower.

Next came the clutch. As you may remember I chose to use a 14" button disc out of a heavy truck. After cleaning up the pressure plate I saw that one of the release fingers had more wear than the others and the plate itself was scored pretty badly. Not a good friction surface for a Dyna-Life disc so it looks like more repair.....
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Last edited by Mark Schneider; 02-13-2015 at 09:44:13 AM.
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