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Antique Steel Wheel Tractors - Old Iron Lugs and Cleats Photos and information about antique steel wheeled farm tractors. This is where to find the heaviest of Old Iron tractors. |
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Rumely E Mechanical Restorationthis thread has 79 replies and has been viewed 14965 times
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#11
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I haven't done anything to make rear stencil and stripe pop yet... but wow!!
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The Following 16 Users Say Thank You to lukeste For This Post:
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#12
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I took the top valve cage off on Friday as I couldn't get the heads to budge. I then fashioned a puller that pulls from center pipe thread of head and drilled end of shaft and threaded it for a bolt to go from inside of jug and into shaft. Then we were pulling on pipe threads, and the bolt that goes through and tightened thru the head. With a hollow ram and a solid piece of metal we put pressure pulling out on head with the head studs being the steady. At this point I had jesse Warren and dean lemer helping as they both stopped by at a good time. We started with screwdrivers and then chisels, being careful to keep head even while removing it, because of the deep inset of the head into combustion chamber. Thanks to them we got the heads off, a real pita by yourself going from underneath then side then top..so much thanks to them
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The Following 21 Users Say Thank You to lukeste For This Post:
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#13
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#15
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I popped the top off the motor tonight. Like opening a big Christmas present. And oh boy did she look good. Clean, everything covered with a nice layer of oil. Lots of shims in rods. I took my ball hone and cleaned the cylinder tops first as there was surface rust. I then took pistons to bottom of stroke and hit it again with ball hone and wiped it clean. After that it was 1 piston pushed out at a time. Quite a job when you are by yourself. First piston presented stuck rings and good wristpins .. I can handle that. Second piston, presented the same.. gonna soak them up and save the rings I don't see the need for replacement rings. Clean the lands,and call it good
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The Following 22 Users Say Thank You to lukeste For This Post:
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#16
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I love the picture of the piston by the pop can.... I took the ball hone to each cylinder for some time on each cylinder to clean them up and get a good cross hatch in bores. It was tasking on the drills, so I had 2 so I could let them cool as I rotated them. 10 inch bore presents a lot of surface area on ball hone. I was very pleased with how it turned out.
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The Following 27 Users Say Thank You to lukeste For This Post:
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Baker Maker, Brasherman, casertractor, Dan thomas, Dean Lemer, eddie bedwell, Eric Best, G Willikers, Gascrank, gasengineman43, Gene Williams, Goldbug66, Jacob WI, JimDoyle, Keven Withers, KevinR, Mike Harmeling, Mike McKnight, MoRo, mshewmaker, Oilpulled, Old Iron Dave, RandyF, Ross Clarke, Sunnybrook, Tony Thompson, VossD |
#17
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#18
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If you remove a piston, press one way only. They are stepped three different diameters. That way, you can regrind the wrist pin journal od without affecting the piston boss fit. I know of someone who broke a piston pressing the wrong way with a big press.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Russ Hamm For This Post:
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#20
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One of the Nicest original E Rumely's for sure! any idea when it last ran?
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cody Isaak For This Post:
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