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Repouring crosshead babbitts?


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  #1  
Old 12-25-2016, 09:42:52 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Hey all,

As I was shimming the bearings in my 15hp Pattin, i noticed that the cross head slide had a huge amount of play up/down, so I'll have to repour the babbitts. Could anyone give me some guidance as to how to go about that? Do I need to install the piston and rod first to hold the crosshead in alignment? Do I pour the lower bearing first with the upper guides removed and out of my way, or...?

I understand the basic concept of pouring babbitt, but i don't know what the best process is for damming and pouring crosshead slide specifically.

thanks!

connor
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Old 12-26-2016, 12:46:38 AM
W.P.Klein W.P.Klein is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Thanks for asking Connor. I need some pointers on the proper procedure also.
Bill Klein
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:37:34 AM
Old Engineer 1967 Old Engineer 1967 is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Do you have any photo's of your engines?

...There's a couple of slightly different ways which I'll gladly help with, but really need an idea of what your x-heads look like.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:56:52 AM
Bill Hazzard Bill Hazzard is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

I would take the shoes out and Babbitt them outside of the engine and then machine to fit the guides.
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Old 12-26-2016, 04:19:05 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Here's some photos. the upper slide rail is spaced by a steel chunk spacer, and possibly a fiber shim or two. (what purpose would shims serve here, anyway? I would think the bottom wears faster than the top, and you can't shim the bottom rail up...)

the bottom babbitt seems to be poured within a cavity in the x-head, and the upper babbit seems to be poured right to the edge.

connor
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:46:54 AM
Old Engineer 1967 Old Engineer 1967 is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?



Here's an example of a mould that I made about 30 years ago, which works so well, I still use it! (Apologies for the quality of the old photos)

I made it so that it has about 1/8" all round clearance, on the sides that are metalled....So that you end up with 1/8" metal on the casting as a starting point, then finish machine as appropriate.

Obviously you would need to guesstimate what your original thicknesses were, and allow a bit over.

You can spend a lot of time making a mould, but it pays off, because you have less machining, and in some cases, no machining, just dressing with a file. You don't have to make a precise fitting mould, you can just make a 'box', which you suspend the x-head in, pour it, then machine piles of metal off. Make sure you save your old white metal that you melt off your casting, and any swarf you make as it can all be re-used.

Your x-head casting should be full holes or slots, to key the white metal, and to allow it to flow through, when you pour it, i.e. it was white metalled in one hit.

The idea being is that you would melt off the old white metal.

Hopefully the original tinning will still be present, if not you will need to shot blast the casting so that it can be re-tinned. Either way you will need some flux to either apply fresh tin, or to 'clean' up the old tin, prior to pouring the white metal.

Basically it's made from bits of mild steel, welded up and machined as necessary, remembering to make it slightly oversize in the areas that need white metal.

I made it to clamp onto the sides of the x-head, that don't require white metal. This way I can setup the x-head so that it's 'floating' i.e. it sits midway in the mould, so that the white metal can flow under, and over it.

The x-head, with mould fitted, is clamped onto a steel plate, and any small gaps are sealed with plaster of paris.

The red arrows show 2 cavities where you can pour the metal in one, and watch it fill up at the other end.



This shows the finished item. It's a locomotive x-head, but the same principal. It has white metal top, and bottom, and on the central side thrust faces.

Your shimming is the same principal....The idea is to shim it nicely from new, then it will last longer. If you set it up 'slack' it will wear faster.

If you get stuck, or need more detail on anything, let me know.
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:33:41 PM
con-rad con-rad is offline
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Default Re: Repouring crosshead babbitts?

Thanks! So a few questions:

Is it possible to pour the babbitt using the x-head rails as guides/mold? That way the machining post-pouring could be avoided. I know people that could machine it for me, but it would make the job easier. Also, finding a datum on a cross head seems like it would be a little challenging; and measuring what thickness to machine the bearing to (especially the bottom one) seems tricky.

The way it seems to me, only the top bearing surface can be shimmed, even though the bottom bearing would be the one wearing faster (assuming the engine is running in the standard direction). So it seems like shimming a crosshead is a one-time adjustment, unlike a round bearing where shims can be removed as the babbitt wears?

connor
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