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Oil Field Engines & Related Equipment

Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine


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  #11  
Old 10-27-2016, 08:52:33 AM
Bill Hazzard Bill Hazzard is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

I would just give it a light hone to clean off the surface rust and you will be fine.
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  #12  
Old 10-28-2016, 09:56:05 AM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by W.P.Klein View Post
Have you found that bearing cap yet? I was working on my engine pavilion this weekend and happened to think of your post - checked around & found a pair. It appears that your pics show the one you have has the babbit indicator tabs which mine does not. Shoot me an e mail if you want to discuss it further. Bill Klein
Bill, sent you a PM. Would be interested in exploring if the pair you have could work.
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  #13  
Old 10-28-2016, 02:51:43 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

I would get a ball type glaze breaker and give it a quick once over, using plenty of WD-40 to flush out debris. Make sure to thoroughly flush out the cylinder and chambers to make sure all the debris is flushed out. You can flush out with kerosene or fuel oil too. Wipe dry with a good clean rag. Clean off the piston, and make sure all the rings are free and in good shape. Be sure the ring grooves are clean and free of carbon under the rings. Oil the piston and rings with SAE 30 oil to start, and install. These engines run with SAE 50 oil, but 30 WT will help get things 'wet' for first rollover. There is not much pressure on the charging cylinder - more vacuum for intake than pressure pushing the fuel/air mix into the power cylinder. You DO want to make sure the charge cylinder cross over valve is seating properly though! Firing pressure back feeding into the charge cylinder can pretzel the charge rod and or blow the charge piston clean out of the bore, if the valve does not hold! Is there an overpressure valve fitted to the charge cylinder? If not you might look into getting one! This valve blows off excess pressure, preventing this damage.

Where abouts is Kempton PA?
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  #14  
Old 10-28-2016, 04:18:09 PM
Dustin D Ehli Dustin D Ehli is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

our 15 has a custom built rubber tired trailer that it is on, even under full load and speed on a brake it doesnt move much, for normal show speeds it just rocks a tiny bit, no big issue.
the tires are implement type though so high ply rating.

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  #15  
Old 10-28-2016, 09:21:19 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Mackey View Post
I would get a ball type glaze breaker and give it a quick once over, using plenty of WD-40 to flush out debris. Make sure to thoroughly flush out the cylinder and chambers to make sure all the debris is flushed out. You can flush out with kerosene or fuel oil too. Wipe dry with a good clean rag. Clean off the piston, and make sure all the rings are free and in good shape. Be sure the ring grooves are clean and free of carbon under the rings. Oil the piston and rings with SAE 30 oil to start, and install. These engines run with SAE 50 oil, but 30 WT will help get things 'wet' for first rollover. There is not much pressure on the charging cylinder - more vacuum for intake than pressure pushing the fuel/air mix into the power cylinder. You DO want to make sure the charge cylinder cross over valve is seating properly though! Firing pressure back feeding into the charge cylinder can pretzel the charge rod and or blow the charge piston clean out of the bore, if the valve does not hold! Is there an overpressure valve fitted to the charge cylinder? If not you might look into getting one! This valve blows off excess pressure, preventing this damage.

Where abouts is Kempton PA?
Thanks for the notes; that sounds like a reasonable approach. The overpressure valve is on my list of items to put on as it has been highly recommended. Kempton is just a little west of Allentown, north of I78.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:28:55 AM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Between waiting for the main cylinder to unstick itself and financing my free time at work, I have been looking into parts I'll need. The pressure relief valve on the charge cylinder. Do I need a Reid specific part or can I find a gas line pressure relief valve from a mechanical supplier? I saw in the archives something about a 100 psi valve needing to be set down to 10psi? That sounds a little low doesn't it? Anyone replaced this valve with a modern one?

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=316
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  #17  
Old 11-13-2016, 08:57:11 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Looks like Christmas has come early. The big piston decided it wanted to move last weekend and I got it to come out today. Mounted up the flywheels last week so it is time to move the unit into the garage for the winter. So far, everything is looking good and I hope we can start piecing things together come the new year. I still need a bearing cap which is leaning towards getting a new casting but that also means new babbit bearings all around. I think the wrist pin bearing will also need some attention. Those are the biggest areas I have seen so far.
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2016, 01:24:58 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Updating this thread. Getting ready for a busy winter travel schedule so with the piston removed, I moved to the next step. Move to the garage for winter work/storage! Cant let this engine sit outside in the snow.

Almost like I planned for it to fit just inside the garage door and park it right next to the Farmall F14 that is in hibernation. Now the fun begins; its a little tight in there!
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  #19  
Old 12-06-2016, 02:34:20 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

If you have cleaned up the cylinders, give them a good coat of Lube oil on a good and wet rag, and seal off all openings with duck tape. This will help stop winter rusting from condensation, if your shop is not heated.

One quick note - if you run the engine, be sure to have water in it! A friend decided to run his 20 HP during the winter, with no water in it. The internal expansion stress between the hot power cylinder walls and the cold water jacket around it ended up breaking the water jacket free of the block! I got there after 1/2 an hour, and noted a 1/8" crack nearly all the way around the water jacket! When the engine cooled, the crack was nearly invisible Unfortunately, he ended up scrapping the engine, after it fell off his temporary mounts and busted a flywheel and bent the crank. Too bad, lots of still good parts lost He didn't know any better
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2016, 04:29:50 PM
StrikeForce StrikeForce is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread: 20HP Reid Engine

Andrew, appreciate the notes. Thankfully, I am a bit paranoid about running engines that are supposed to have water, without water. I haven't had a chance to clean up the cylinders yet, still need to find a hone tool that size! That's unfortunate about your friend, I may have become physically ill if that was my engine!

I need to make up some gaskets when I get back home from this trip, seal up the ports, and fill with water to check for leaks. Even though I got everything unstuck and out, I still haven't confirmed if I have an engine or a huge paperweight.
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