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Lifting and Loading

1947 Clark Trucloader / Continental N62 Ignition Woes

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Old 07-02-2018, 12:45:14 PM
danowar danowar is offline
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Default 1947 Clark Trucloader / Continental N62 Ignition Woes

Hey all. The saga of getting a very weird, old forklift running continues: I have a 1947 Clark Trucloader that I'm trying to get running again. When I acquired it, it was sans-carburetor; that issue has now been resolved, and I am chasing the next problem, ignition: WHY ENGINE NO MAKE SPARK

Thus far I have been unable to produce any spark from any plug on this engine (a Continental N62A-500). The battery is good: a brand new 6V unit, in fact, of the appropriate type for this vehicle. The starter is good, it cranks over no problem. Points look clean. Plugs are suspect and will be replaced shortly; several suspect wires have also been replaced, along with the condensor. I'm going through and trying to rule out the immediately obvious stuff, but honestly I don't know much about this type of ignition system. Can anyone with experience with these engines help me understand the diagnostic chain involved here? I've been googling stuff like a crazy person on this, and will continue to do so, but I'd appreciate any insight anyone may have. I'm also not opposed in any way to doing an electronic ignition conversion on it, as well, but would really love to hear some of the particulars about this application (the engine type, if not the vehicle type, at least) before going down this road: I've seen some conflicting information about the nature of this engine's electrical system that I'd love to be clear on before committing to any parts (6V; ground positive? ground negative?)

Thanks very much, all!
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Old 07-02-2018, 02:13:22 PM
MNGB MNGB is offline
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Default Re: 1947 Clark Trucloader / Continental N62 Ignition Woes

Hi its a 6 volt distributor some simple checks you can try, you'll need a battey powered continuity tester or a volt-ohm meter disconnect the wire from the coil going to the dist/points connect the con. light or VOM to the wire going to the points and the other lead to the vehicle /engine block turn the engine over if using a light it should blink on and off as the point open and close if using a VOM the needle will swing back and forth that means the point are working opening and closing making contact it no indications then the points are not make good contact and will need cleaning, if all that is good then check the coil it will need to be a 6 volt coil it the wire from the coil to the points is connected to the (-) terminal the vehicle should be negative ground if its connected to the (+) terminal then it should be positive ground, next (maybe first check the you have 6 volts going to the coil when you turn the ignition switch on. if all that checks you will have spark

---------- Post added at 01:13:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05:13 PM ----------

Hi I forgot to add that converting to electronic will not be easy as I doubt anyone makes a kit for that Aotolite dist but there is a module from Kirk Engine that will work very well its has transdenser module
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Old 07-03-2018, 02:28:07 PM
Bud Tierney Bud Tierney is offline
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Default Re: 1947 Clark Trucloader / Continental N62 Ignition Woes

Pull the dist cap off and check the tip of the rotor that passes the spark to the inside of the dist cap AND those contacts in the inside on the dist cap AND the contacts on the top of the dist cap where the plug wires go it...
Corrosion etc at these places can block spark to the plugs...
AND check the cap carefully for cracks...
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Old 07-04-2018, 10:25:32 AM
CharlieB CharlieB is offline
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Default Re: 1947 Clark Trucloader / Continental N62 Ignition Woes

Some of these old electrical systems were positive ground, and some were negative ground. All the batteries were top terminal type in those days, and the positive terminal was fatter than the negative terminal. Just check which terminal fits the strap or wire grounded to the frame.

The ignition circuit is pretty simple. No computers or even transistors in the old days. Here is a good YouTube illustration of how it works.

Things to note...
On many of these systems, if you leave the key turned on without the engine running, and the breaker points happen to be closed, you will drain the battery and at the same time fry the points.

If your engine still has the original carbon-core plug wires, replace them with modern wires. The old carbons used to fail internally, but still look just fine. And keep that distributor dry. It just takes a small amount of condensation inside the distributor cap to ruin your whole day.
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