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How to: Convert ONAN CCK & MCCK 6.5KW to OEM Electronic Ignition

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Old 07-07-2017, 10:42:18 PM
DannoGA DannoGA is offline
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Default Re: How to: Convert ONAN CCK & MCCK 6.5KW to OEM Electronic Ignition

Greetings Ken. I have the same model Onan generator you have. Did you ever complete the conversion to electronic ignition? Any information that might help me get to the conversion process is greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-25-2018, 12:32:10 PM
cmslaght cmslaght is offline
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Default Re: How to: Convert ONAN CCK & MCCK 6.5KW to OEM Electronic Ignition

I just wanted to pass on my thanks to the people in this forum. I have owned my boat (1981 33' Bertram) for about 7 years and from day 1 my Onan MCCk 6.5k never worked well.

Found that the heating element in the choke box was broken so the choke wasn't right which made starting difficult. Then the generator would run for a while and then start to hunt and pop till it would either stall or I would stop it.

After upgrading the ignition to the EIK and replacing the plugs, wires and coil with the modern Onan version thats posted here, the generator actually runs great and does not hunt anymore.

I suspect now that the coil was bad and when it would get hot it would start messing up.

Some notes:
I used the part numbers found in this forum. My EIK came with the gasket and the mount piece (which you still have to cut the nub off of). I did not trim down the EIK since I used the box it came with which mounts great.

Whole thing only took me about an hour to install (if that).

Many many thanks.. Even though this is many years old, its still helping people like me!!
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Old 12-25-2018, 01:40:20 PM
sdowney717 sdowney717 is offline
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Default Re: How to: Convert ONAN CCK & MCCK 6.5KW to OEM Electronic Ignition

Originally Posted by preskitaz View Post
Don't know how to go back and edit my post but I got a label wrong on one of the wires. Anyways this is the correct image. I mounted the HEI module to an old Pentium heat sink I had laying around. Amazon has the specific heat sink for the module. In the one picture my points are located above the oil filter. I removed the condenser and ran the wire into the control box where the new ignition circuit is located. I left the ballast resistor on the coil and since the HEI module uses 12 volts, I connected the power to the front side of the resistor (not after ). The transistor and R1 I mounted on a small breadboard and used sealing heatshrink to cover it. Using this circuit I was able to make it more reliable since the new points won't wear because of the low current switching. I'm also able to still adjust the timing by adjusting the points as stated in the manual.
Mine is still fine using the points and the GM module. I have not had to readjust the points. Like you said, the current load is so low they do not wear out.
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