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Wallis Troubleshooting?


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  #1  
Old 01-02-2017, 04:44:06 PM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Wallis Troubleshooting?

Pulled the head off the 20-30 Wallis today in order to change the valve springs. Definite seating issues evident on 3 and 4 exhaust valves so they will all get a grind. I have a couple of questions for the experts:
- would it help to place rings (washers) under the valve springs to give them even more tension? Anything like that available?
- I had gotten a new Olsen head gasket and they also supplied one piece manifold gaskets. Does anyone supply the original style ring type manifold seals?
- does anyone make new push rods?
- regarding the little patented brass schnorkenwobblebimpler device (pictured below) that I assume is for water feed, does it effect running of motor if not set properly? If memory serves, there is a little rotary valve system that opens ports and runs off butterfly.
The tractor has never ran just right, at least at idle. When working, it seemed to settle in fairly nice. Also, it got hard to start in later times. Would it help to put proper priming cups on the intake somewhere. I am never sure whether fuel gets into the cylinders through those little straight primers that are on it. All my other tractors start so easily and I can't figure out why the Wallis is sometimes so hard to fire up.
At any rate, maybe I have asked this all before but thanks for any help anyway.
Aloha,
RM.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:18:05 PM
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RustyRelics UK RustyRelics UK is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Hello G Wilikers

Could you post a picture of the small brass linkage on the back of your vaporizer which controls the throttle butterfly, I am this small piece missing to get my 20-30 up and running. Could I trouble you to measure the hole centers from the butterfly shaft to the linkage point.
I need to make something up to make this work and it would be a great help to start in the ball park.

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:13:44 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

G, most engine machine shops in my experience have a selection of shim washers that can be installed under valve springs to correct for differences in height. The Wallis springs are fairly light if I remember correctly (as I've worked on a few of them) and might benefit from shims. I have a complete 20-30 here as a "yard ornament", but have never looked under the valve cover.

I had a very nice Wallis 12-20 which went to the Reynold's Museum a couple of years ago and it always started very easily with only one pull over with choke on and then one more with it off and away it went! Never used priming cups.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:52:54 PM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Rusty,
I'll look into that tomorrow.
Phil,
Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:36:06 PM
Oldtech Oldtech is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Yes, washers can be placed under the springs. Any machine shop should have various sizes. Only restriction is if the spring coils bind when valve is open. I don't think that'll be a problem on a Wallis. The springs seem soft as these engines only run 1000-1200 rpm. Don't need big springs,.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:55:51 PM
TSeaberg TSeaberg is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Hi Rick, Good to see you are working on the Wallis again. I sent you new valve springs right? For some of your questions the brass water valve does not have an adjustment on it. The holes just line up at or near wide open and then water flow is regulated on the starting tank valve according to the operators book. I usually plug this line to prevent a vacuum leak as well as the priming valves. When starting mine I just use the choke a couple times and that is enough.

For the exhaust gaskets I have been just cutting my own rings out of felpro gasket material. Its a pain to work with but in the end it looks better.

Some items I go through when trouble shooting mine. Check the camshaft timing. Easy to do and surprisingly many of them are off. I have had two of my own tractors with camshaft timing off and they idle horribly but run better at higher speeds and pulling. Easy way to check is to use a dial indicator on the exhaust valve or rocker arm and see that it closes about 10 degrees after TDC, or 8-1/8" to 8-5/8" from inside of the frame on carb side to timing marks on front pulley.
Then make sure the vaporizer is air tight but I think you have already went through that. fix anything that can be an air leak. The Kingston carbs are not the greatest for idle adjustments but the valve or flapper inside of them should be pretty tight side to side and at least seal all the way around the hole. Float level can be adjusted to change idle a little bit. Most of the time I spend a few weeks or even months working on running characteristics for each new tractor learning all the time.
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:27:59 AM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Tom,
Thanks for the advice. Yes, you sent me the valve springs a couple of years back. I like old Wally but feel sorry for him as he is the neglected work horse in the stable. I'll try to fix that. I don't know how people have dozens of tractors and manage to look after them all. Four keeps me going!
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:17:51 PM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Rusty,
Here are some pix of the pfnortzbrakensplotz which is opposite of the schnorkenwobblebimpler device. I hope this is what you wanted?
For hole centres, I am looking at 5/8 inch (1.5 cm).
Should you need better pictures or measures, please let me know.
Hope this helps.
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Old 01-03-2017, 02:57:41 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Rick hope your problems are soon fixed again.

You have an nice yelly sandwich and it Looks to me peach jam or something.
Hope you left something for me.........

We have already the new AP this afternoon about the chase tractor.

In an coople of weeks it wil also arriving in the North American mail boxes.....



Keep continude your wonderful story’s,


Chris,
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Old 01-03-2017, 02:57:54 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Dunno, but i'm hankerin for a sandwich and some coffee right now.
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:23:07 PM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Chunky peanut butter with buckwheat honey on Portuguese bread with a hot chocolate!
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:58:58 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

This might help you with your tractor uncle G and I know your love for Ebay ...so get the old Pay Pal fired up


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Massey-Harris...QAAOSwBLlVPTmu
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Old 01-04-2017, 03:58:37 PM
Cody Isaak Cody Isaak is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Would that happen to be part of the batch i sent you last year!
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Old 01-04-2017, 08:46:21 PM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Cody - I go through that stuff like water!
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Old 01-05-2017, 03:21:15 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Stopped at an auto parts store this morning to see if they had rings to raise up the valve springs. There was an older chap sitting on a stool talking with the store owner. I've seen him around, maybe an old car guy. Anyway, he said use a carriage bolt that won't go through the tapered part of the spring and then stretch it from the other end. He said he has done that a lot.
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Old 01-05-2017, 06:33:53 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Neat idea. I suggest not increasing the free length over 1.1 X the longest original.
The elastic modulus does not change and if the springs that you measure after stretching maintain the same free length when you remove them and recheck, then you have your increased force. If they have been heated and lost temper, the yield strength will be reduced and they will not maintain the free length or force after installation.
The spring constant, K will remain constant and the force will be proportional to the deflection from free length. For an engine the change in deflection during a cycle is constant. If the free length is 2.0 and the closed length is 1.5 and the open length is 1.3, the open deflection = 0.7. Stretch the spring to a free length of 2.2 and the deflection is 0.9 and the force is 0.9/0.7 = 1.29 times original for valve open. For the valve closed, the ratio will be 0.7/0.5 = 1.4 times original.
In the example, an increase of 10% in free length increases the closed valve force by 40%.
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Old 01-06-2017, 12:03:34 AM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by G Willikers View Post
Cody - I go through that stuff like water!
The most noticeable problem with week exaust valve springs is that the valves will be sucked open when the engine is idling and the vacuum is high, causing a very rough idle. Installing higher compression pistons increases the problem as it also increases the vacuum
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Old 01-06-2017, 12:14:12 AM
G Willikers G Willikers is offline
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Mr. Halcon,
I am thinking that is most of the problem. I had put new rings on and cleaned up the bores nicely and it has very good compression. Should have done the springs then. It wasn't too big a job pulling her down the other day though. As said earlier, it is a nice old tractor and it has lots of local history.
Aloha,
RM
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:22:20 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by G Willikers View Post
Mr. Halcon,
I am thinking that is most of the problem. I had put new rings on and cleaned up the bores nicely and it has very good compression. Should have done the springs then. It wasn't too big a job pulling her down the other day though. As said earlier, it is a nice old tractor and it has lots of local history.
Aloha,
RM
Sure, You need to burn of all that energy that's in that buckwheat honey any way
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:47:58 PM
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Default Re: Wallis Troubleshooting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by halcon View Post
Sure, You need to burn of all that energy that's in that buckwheat honey any way
Yeah otherwise he might loose his youngish figure
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