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Marquette Gen M-71-2657


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  #1  
Old 10-27-2010, 07:21:55 PM
chamokie chamokie is offline
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Default Marquette Gen M-71-2657

I have a Marquette gen, model # M-71-2657 produces 110/ 220 and 12 volts. I need repair and parts manual for this unit. If anyone has these would certainly appreciate an email.
Thanks
Ed
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:11:28 PM
chamokie chamokie is offline
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Default Re: Marquette Gen M-71-2657

Quote:
Originally Posted by chamokie View Post
I have a Marquette gen, model # M71-2657 produces 110/ 220 and 12 volts. I need repair and parts manual for this unit. If anyone has these would certainly appreciate an email.
Thanks
Ed
This is actually a Marquette 34-109, the M71-2657 is the serial #. I am assuming the 71 is the year of the unit.
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Old 11-20-2010, 03:51:51 PM
Jim Rankin Jim Rankin is offline
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Default Re: Marquette Gen M-71-2657

What's wrong with it?
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Old 11-21-2010, 06:21:10 PM
chamokie chamokie is offline
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Default Re: Marquette Gen M-71-2657

Cannot get it to produce any power. Engine runs fine, no output. Checked the diodes they work, the brushes are not stuck they work, need to find out if there are any circut breakers or voltage regulars. Thanks for asking.
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:40:24 PM
Jim Rankin Jim Rankin is offline
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Default Re: Marquette Gen M-71-2657

First thing to check is if there is ANY AC output at all. No residual voltage usually means no voltage can build up. Probably need to flash the field through the brushes, but you need to determine which is positive and which is negative.

The exception to this is an exciter cranked set which has a commutator and brushes as well as sliprings and brushes. It is also important to determine if the AC power output comes off the rotor via sliprings (field is stationary) or if the AC comes out of the stator (field is on the rotor). Not a good idea to flash the AC output while the set is running. Might work with it stopped to flash through the AC lines and then start it up and see if it'll go.

If none of this works, then you probably will want to start checking the windings of the rotor and stator for continuity and shorts to ground. Shorts between turns usually cannot be found without a resistance spec to compare to, unless you can compare identical coils of the part in question.
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:08:46 PM
chamokie chamokie is offline
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Default Re: Marquette Gen M-71-2657

Jim, thank you for replying. There is no AC output at all. Hoping against hope it is not the fields. I will look into the brushes regarding the flash. Thanks again, Ed
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Old 11-25-2010, 08:22:20 PM
Jim Rankin Jim Rankin is offline
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Default Re: Marquette Gen M-71-2657

I got your PM. I want to reply here so that others who may have information may add it and those who may come along later looking for similar information can find this thread.

If no voltage output or very low (less than 10 volts AC), you may benefit from flashing the field. As I described before, to flash the field and restore residual magnetic field and hopefully at least residual voltage output, you first need to determine where the main alternator field is. It will either be on the rotor or the stator (stationary windings around the outside of the generator). Determine which is the field by tracing the AC output back into the generator head. The AC output does not come from the field, so look at the other one for the field.

If the field is on the rotor, it will be fed either by a brushless exciter with stationary field coil, rotating armature coil spinning inside it and rectifier diodes, or a set of brushes running on 2 smooth sliprings. These brushes need to be free in the guides, have some good spring tension pushing them into the sliprings and the sliprings need to be clean. A black discoloration where the brushes run is normal, but there should be no corrosion. Clean with a soft stone designed for such or sandpaper held against the spinning rings to burnish them. Remove all dust after cleaning and recheck output.

Also a good idea to check the voltage present on the brushes or field leads with the exciter connected and the generator running. That way if the regulator is feeding a bad field, or the field's good and the AC section is bad, you'll know and you may be able to check the polarity of the field connections if there is even a tiny bit of DC voltage present.

Flashing should require only a few volts and low current, so it can be accomplished with a 6 Volt lantern battery, cordless drill battery etc. Using a 12 volt cranking battery will work, but it has a lot of amperage available, so more dangerous to the regulator etc. With 12 volts, a good way is to use an automotive 12 volt probe test light to make one of the connections as you flash the set. That way you limit the current through the bulb as well as getting a visual indication of whether the field circuit is good when the bulb lights up.

It is possible to fry the voltage regulator by flashing the field. Safest thing is to unplug the voltage regulator if you can before flashing. You need to determine which brush or exciter field lead is positive and which is negative and apply your flashing voltage to match. Apply the flash with the generator spinning and you can watch AC output to see if it builds up even a little bit while you're flashing. Safest way is to flash with the engine stopped, just touch the wires connecting the battery to the brushes or field leads for a second. You should see or hear a small spark if the field is good. Stop set and reconnect the regulator if you disconnected it. Restart set and check AC voltages.

Happy Thanksgiving, be Careful and Good luck!
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