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Antique Marine Engines and Outboard Motors Discussion on old marine engines, naptha, gas, oil or steam and vintage outboard motors.

Antique Marine Engines and Outboard Motors

4hp Lockwood Ash


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  #31  
Old 07-11-2013, 08:46:37 PM
JWithers JWithers is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

Got a call from from the foundry today. My brackets are ready. I'll be picking them up next week friday. Ill be sure to post before and after picks from rough castings to finished brackets.
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  #32  
Old 07-21-2013, 11:45:58 PM
JWithers JWithers is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

Picked up the brackets from the foundry last friday. They turned out excellent. Can't wait to get a set machined!
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  #33  
Old 07-23-2013, 10:16:43 PM
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Bob Ronning Bob Ronning is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

I have a 5hp Lockwood ash #625 that i am looking for timer parts also. I have the gear and part of the timer, see photo, does your engine have the steel strap to hold the timer and gear like mine? or is it bolted to the engine separately?
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  #34  
Old 07-24-2013, 09:23:06 PM
JWithers JWithers is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

No. Mine will have cast iron brackets. No strap like that. That actually looks like something someone built to get it running.

---------- Post added at 08:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 PM ----------

They are bolted to the engine directly.
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  #35  
Old 08-12-2013, 08:06:20 AM
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

I love getting parts in the mail! I recently won this on ebay. Its a 1"schebler with an extra bushing for whatever it was on. I have not yet opened it, hopefully the inside is in good shape.
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  #36  
Old 08-12-2013, 06:45:00 PM
Warren Eastham Warren Eastham is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

You may be able to get the missing fuel line fitting from OTTO Gas Engine Works (sponsor). Enjoy your Schebler....they are interesting.
Good luck,
Warren
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  #37  
Old 08-12-2013, 07:51:17 PM
J.B. Castagnos J.B. Castagnos is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

Jeremy, that looks like a 3/4", I may be wrong, hard to be sure in the picture. If it is the 4 hp will run fine with it, actually better at low speeds, won't develop full power.
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  #38  
Old 08-12-2013, 11:46:02 PM
JWithers JWithers is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

JB, you are right. I just measured it with my caliper and a bore gauge. It measured 0.8095 in the inside of the pipe sticking out of it. Glad to know it will still work.

I just took it apart to check it out and it all looks to be in good shape. Could probably use a new float.
I notice things on this one that I have not seen on others.
First there isn't a choke on it. No big deal my hand works. But then there is a drain cock threaded into the top. Any ideas as to why?
Then there is a spring loaded button on it that when depressed would make contact with the float when the bowl is full. What would that be for?
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  #39  
Old 08-13-2013, 06:37:59 AM
J.B. Castagnos J.B. Castagnos is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

Inside the air horn you should see a leather washer that slides on a shaft, held on seat by a spring. This is a balance valve, it has a slot that lets air by-pass at idle, as you speed up it starts to flutter allowing more air in. Many of the carbs in our area have had them removed because the engine would run a little faster without them, but you had to richen the needle valve as you came to idle speed. I'm guessing someone added the petcock to give an extra adjustment, as you opened it it would lean out at higher speeds, wouldn't affect idle mixture. If you remove the throttle plate you will see a little slot machined in the carb body, this allows excess gas to drip out.The "tickler" holds the float down allowing it to flood for starting. Don't put a gasket between the carb and throttle, it will block this slot and make the engine flood easy. Dave Reed, Otto Piston Rings, has floats available for these carbs.
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  #40  
Old 09-20-2013, 07:08:42 PM
JWithers JWithers is offline
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Default Re: 4hp Lockwood Ash

Today was a good day for working on engines! Rain day off from work and perfect temp for a fat guy like me! So today did alot with the Lockwood -Ash. I started off by cleaning all the threads with taps. Then scraped all the mating surfaces so they were clean. I scraped all the carbon I could reach in the combustion chamber and then honed the cylinder. I also tried cleaning out the ports and any openings. In the opening where tbe water pump attaches I found a good chunk of wire probably used to hold the core in place. Then I moved on to the piston, removing the rings and cleaning the grooves. Also had to do a little scraping to remove a little corrosion from the circumference of the piston itself and scrape carbon off the top. Took the intake valve apart to clean it up and grind it a little. Then it was time to polish the rod journal which cleaned up pretty easy. Then I cut gaskets for between the crankcase and jug, water pump, and intake. Installed connecting rod and piston, slid the jug on, bolted it down and turned it over. Very smooth. Put a plug in it and tried to turn it over and wow, the compression is excellent! Not bad for an engine that sat in pieces with a stuck piston on a dirt floor for 20+ years! Now its just patience waiting for the last part to show up and getting the rest of the parts machined.
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