IHC Famous? Hp? Year?

[Jeremy Hartle]

I have in the past put a pipe on the oiler tube and filled it with a very thin oil and hooked it to compressed air while heating. But if its not back far enough itll just ooze past the skirt. A lot of times the heating and cooling repeatedly will break the seal. But i have also got tired of waiting and put it in a press and kept my fingers crossed.

[Mike McKnight]

I always had better luck in sticking an engine with brute force-I.e. block of wood and a sledgehammer more than anything else.

The ring that comes off the back of the cylinder is just a mud ring that you cane remove to wash the mud and scale and debris out of the bottom of the cylinder.

Mike

[Old Iron Dave]

Heat on the cylinder and cooling the inside of the piston with air blast, water mist ,CO2 fire extinguisher, or dry ice ect. can make a big difference when another couple thous of contraction would be handy. The water mist option has worked for me on several occasions.

[AngrySailor]

All excellent suggestions guys, thanks. The piston is covering the Oiler pipe, I wonder if filling with penetrant then connecting a grease gun or portapower jack to put some good pressure in it would help force some lube in...

I am away at work until after New Years, it’s soaking while I’m gone. I will look into a more substantial heat source also. I’ve moved a few years ago, I still have my torches but haven’t had the need to lease or buy bottles yet. I may look at propane and oxygen as I have propane on had for a forklift and portable welder and don’t do much cutting anymore...

[Tom Marshall Jr.]

a weed burner makes a lot of heat and does not require oxygen , others on this site have used one with good results. just a suggestion to save a few bucks.

[AngrySailor]

SUCCESS! Took a good bit of heat with the rosebud and some big swings from the largest shop helper I know but she’s out!

[AngrySailor]

Doesn’t look too bad for how long it’s been in there. Got very luck and no broken ring lands. There was a piece of brass bar stock that just fit in the cylinder against the piston and then the steel bar against that. She fought the whole way out. Heat and hammer, rinse and repeat for about one hour. The rings starting to free up with a little penetrant and wiggling. Last big pieces stuck are the governor collar and weights and the cam shaft.

Soon I will need to source a fuel pump and any other bits I am missing. I plan to remove the flywheels from the crank and rig up my tool post Grinder. I’m pretty sure I can dress the mains but the rod throw would require a big wheel. It has cleaned up with some emery paper but should really be ground.

[AngrySailor]

Going to need a sleeve. After some clean up there’s some deep pitting...

[AngrySailor]

Found a semi local engine shop which has a horizontal boring mill large enough to handle this job. I’ve priced out a universal sleeve for under $200 which is over the required 12” bore length. I will be bringing the cylinder to them tomorrow for a look and quote. This is just too large for my machine, the only way I could do it would be to mount the cylinder to the saddle of my lathe and fabricate a boring bar to hold in the spindle... seems too much work for one off job.

[AngrySailor]

Dropped the cylinder off. $500 for the liner and and installation. Told him to go ahead.