![]() |
|
|
Antique Gas Engine Discussion Meet collectors of hit and miss engines, ask questions about collecting, restoring and showing antique flywheel engines. |
![]() |
IH LB 1.5-2.5 engine helpthis thread has 25 replies and has been viewed 648 times
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I bet the impulse spring is broken. Those are fun to replace...
![]() |
Sponsored Links |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Would the impulse spring located inside the mag housing?
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
It's located in a cup/housing right behind the gear end of the mag.
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Exactly what Pat said. I had to do mine a couple years ago, so my memory isn't that great. I was trying to find a pic or post that shows it better. It seems like there was a post somewhere that explained everything. Maybe somebody has that. The trick is to cut a slot in a piece of conduit and use it as a tool to wind up the spring.Your spring will look something like the attached pic.
![]() |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
If the impulse spring is broken, will the mag still snap when engine is spun in right direction? It is doing that now and I do have spark.
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Well, from here, it sounds like the spring is not broken and the reverse problemis some where else.
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I would get a hold of abore scope, and have a look inside the crankcase. There may be a part broken inside that is pushed out of the way when the engine is turned in one direction, but provides an obstical when reversed. A hard kick back may cause undue damage, and if it is something loose in the crankcase, it may also cause damage if it is knocked about if the engine is running. It sounds like it may be a governor weight coming incontact with a crank shaft counter weight. nly a borescope will tell.
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I actually have a bore scope and after I flush the crankcase with diesel I will do just that. This was my next step hoping not to find any parts in the bottom after draining the oil.
Thanks everyone for all the good info. This is not my first time around an engine, I have rebuilt many just not this old. This is turning into an interesting project. So far I have learned more from everyone here than I have searching the internet. Thanks |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
New fuel tanks are available for your engine. A lot of people will cut the 1/4" Copper line from the carb to inside the check valve, in the tank and slip a short length of 1/4" id fuel hose to connect the two back together. This way you don't mess up those sensitive threads in the carb if you need to remove and clean the check falve from the fuel tank. You may have to remove a short section of the tube to allow for some flex in the rubber fuel hose.
|
#20
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The top of the tank is rotted through. I cut the fuel line with a hacksaw to remove tank. I then removed mixer and air box. I was able to remove fuel line fitting from mixer with no problems. Had a steel fuel line. I did not remove the fitting from tank. Is the check valve on the end of the fuel line in tank? If so I will probably need a new one. All what I could see with that fitting through the holes in the tank looked real ugly. Actually I just found a manual with a breakdown of all parts and it looks as though that is how it is. I will pull it out of old tank and see if it is usable.
|
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|