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GMC 1928 T20 Truck Restoration


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  #11  
Old 11-27-2017, 12:44:01 AM
Oldtech Oldtech is online now
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Your truck has a standard series Buick engine -( I think most T 20s would have a Pontic engine.) That's good. It is the same as a 27 Buick car- small series. It's possible it is a 27 as 28 had a fuel pump, not the vacuum tank, but hey, they mixed and matched back then. I have lots of info on these engines if you need any help.
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:07:46 PM
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OTTO-Sawyer OTTO-Sawyer is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montyfromalberta View Post
Im picking one up on the weekend coming up!
Its a pretty complete truck!
I can send picks (or post) when I get it home!
monty
Welcome to the Stak Monty.

Looking forward to seeing pictures of your new truck.

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  #13  
Old 11-27-2017, 04:31:16 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Typically, early handbrakes did not go to the axles! Instead, they went to a band that went around a drum mounted on the driveshaft. When you pulled back on the lever, it would tighten the band around the drum, providing friction and stopping the truck.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:01:37 PM
Montyfromalberta Montyfromalberta is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

These go to the axle... what's your email. Can't figure out how to put up pics
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:06:52 PM
Montyfromalberta Montyfromalberta is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

]These go to the axle... what's your email. Can't figure out how to put up pics
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  #16  
Old 12-07-2017, 08:35:51 PM
Montyfromalberta Montyfromalberta is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 Truck Restoration

ok.. a guy told me theres a tag on the engine..and frame.. I found one on the engine. not the frame
you guys help me out? on the frame somewhere?

cheers
monty
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:27:49 PM
GMCtrucker GMCtrucker is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtech View Post
Your truck has a standard series Buick engine -( I think most T 20s would have a Pontic engine.) That's good. It is the same as a 27 Buick car- small series. It's possible it is a 27 as 28 had a fuel pump, not the vacuum tank, but hey, they mixed and matched back then. I have lots of info on these engines if you need any help.
Hello Oldtech.
Yes this is a small Buick standard six engine and doesnt use a fuel pump but a vacuum tank. It Serial Number is 2115225. We are having trouble trimming it and adjusting it in Idle. If you have info in the correct fire order, how to correctly istall the distributor (was removed for paint and not marked, so it was installed incorrectly thought) it would be very appreciated.
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2018, 11:44:34 PM
GMCtrucker GMCtrucker is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 Truck Restoration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montyfromalberta View Post
ok.. a guy told me theres a tag on the engine..and frame.. I found one on the engine. not the frame
you guys help me out? on the frame somewhere?

cheers
monty
Ours have the engine tag, a plate in the "dash" in the passenger side, and I was told there is a number in the chassis at the forward Right side exactly in the area the front wheel is, however I havent found it even removing the frame paint...
Hope this helps.

---------- Post added at 11:37:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32:02 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montyfromalberta View Post
]These go to the axle... what's your email. Can't figure out how to put up pics
Hello Montyfromalberta.
Thanks for the photos, indeed it is exactly like ours.
I can see yours have the ratch mechanism missing as ours.
If you can share photos of your GMC I will be pleased.

adolfomnz@gmail.com



---------- Post added at 11:44:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37:22 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Mackey View Post
Typically, early handbrakes did not go to the axles! Instead, they went to a band that went around a drum mounted on the driveshaft. When you pulled back on the lever, it would tighten the band around the drum, providing friction and stopping the truck.
Indeed, in this truck there is a couple of rings on each after wheel drums, one for normal brake and one for the hand brake. These go inside and expands to make friction inside the brake drum to stop the truck.
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2018, 01:02:34 AM
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Hi GMC Trucker. The firing order is 153624. Timing procedure is to use the marks on the flywheel under the round cover. Set to #1 TDC, the "0" mark. then remove the cap on the BOTTOM of the distributor mounting tube, and loosen the nut on the bottom of the distributor. This will free the shaft to turn wherever you want. Set it to #1 points just barely opening. The spark control on the steering wheel should be set to maybe 2/3 of the retard position. You could have it at full retard but I like a little leeway. Hope this helps.
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2018, 11:26:06 PM
GMCtrucker GMCtrucker is offline
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Default Re: GMC 1928 T20 TRUCK restoration.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtech View Post
Hi GMC Trucker. The firing order is 153624. Timing procedure is to use the marks on the flywheel under the round cover. Set to #1 TDC, the "0" mark. then remove the cap on the BOTTOM of the distributor mounting tube, and loosen the nut on the bottom of the distributor. This will free the shaft to turn wherever you want. Set it to #1 points just barely opening. The spark control on the steering wheel should be set to maybe 2/3 of the retard position. You could have it at full retard but I like a little leeway. Hope this helps.
Hello Oldtech, thanks for your help.
We were trying the 153624 in the beggining (without been sure, it was left by my passed away uncle graved in a corner of the engine comp).
Then I did grab some info about buick cars using this similar engine, using the firing order 142635. This last one worked a little bit better but now I am confused.I prefers using the one you suggested since your experience have shown it worked in this kind of trucks/engine configuration.
In the other hand our distributor doesnt use the cap and nut system -dont know why- so I will try removing all the assembly and reinstalled it in a different position trying "a teet at a time" instead of turning the shaft until setting the #1 the way you suggest.
Our flywheel just have 2 marks, "17 deg" which we are using for the timming with the #1 TDC and a "1-6" mark which I was tell is used to match the camshaft and the crankshaft gears.
The next weekend I will try again using your information. By the way, Which cylinder is the#1, the one close to the firewall or the one on the front of the engine?
Kind regards
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