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Reid 15 hp misfire


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  #1  
Old 04-05-2016, 08:54:44 PM
Dale Carnahan Dale Carnahan is offline
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Default Reid 15 hp misfire

I have recently acquired a 15 hp Reid. Got a manual and have been working on reducing the frequency of misfires, with fair success. How often is normal at 75 to 85 rpm with no load? Also, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:50:57 PM
Bill Hazzard Bill Hazzard is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

It is possible to cross fire every few minutes. I have found that running rich helps eliminate cross fires but nothing works better than a load on the engine. If I could put a 1 or 2 HP load on my engine it would 2 cycle all day long without missing a beat, on a hot tube.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:21:22 PM
Dale Carnahan Dale Carnahan is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

Sometimes it will go for 45 minutes without misfiring, then it will three times in 10 minutes then another 45 till next.
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Old 04-06-2016, 01:44:35 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

Several things will cause flash back in the Reids. 1) most common is too lean a mixture. lean burn will cause the flame to travel slowly, allowing the flame to ignite the intake charge, especially when running at slow speeds. restricting the intake can help. You can test by slightly choking the intake with your hand or a piece of cardboard. If that smoothes the engine out, you have your solution! If you have a pipe threaded intake, put a reducer on a nipple and install it. This will act like a choke. You can then adjust the fuel to suit RPM. For example - 2" intake - install a 2x11/2 reducer and try the engine. If still flashes back, try a 2x11/4", and see what happens. 2x1 might be too small, if the others don't work. 2) intake check not seating. If you are running on propane, propane oil (a sticky oil found in the gas) may be hanging the check. A worn seat may also cause problems). 3 not enough fuel supply. Are you running with an accumulator? If not there may not be enough low pressure-high volume gas available for proper intake charge. The fact that the engine seems to run OK at times tends to rule this option out at this time. 4) gas supply. Are you running a big enough tank to supply gas? A small cylinder will cool after a while, dropping supply pressure and leaning out the engine.

Let us know what you find.
Andrew
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:36:59 PM
Bill Hazzard Bill Hazzard is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale Carnahan View Post
Sometimes it will go for 45 minutes without misfiring, then it will three times in 10 minutes then another 45 till next.
That is not too bad. Any change in air barometric pressure, humidity or temperature will affect how the engine will run so it is hard to keep them consistent.
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Old 04-07-2016, 08:34:13 AM
Joel Sanderson Joel Sanderson is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

Before answering the combustion questions, check the mechanics, starting with the main valve. You may know this, but Mr. Burns told me this when I first got my Reid: disconnect the charging crank at the flywheel and have someone hold the rod. Then turn the flywheels to make compression. If the charging piston moves out at all, you have a leak into that cylinder, either through the valve seat or the seal. That'll make it backfire for sure. I'd be willing to bet you have a problem there if it's backfiring that much.

First, check the valve seat. Take the valve cap off the bottom of the valve so you can reach the stem. Then check to see if rotating the valve to different positions changes how much leak you get into the charging cylinder when you make compression. Hopefully there will be no difference, because that would mean you have a warped stem (I did) and need a new valve. Also, be sure your valve and seat are in good order. Take it to a valve shop if you want a second opinion, and have them grind it for you.

Second, check the valve gaskets. I have never been able to get the square solid copper ring to seal for beans. If the seat has any pitting or if it isn't flat, it's gonna leak. My engine's running on a gasket I made myself which seals much better than the solid copper. Take a piece of 5/32" brass channel and very carefully bend it into a ring that just slips into the valve hole. Bend it so so the open side is out. Then silver solder the ends together, filing off the excess solder. Then take a piece of 1/8" square graphite packing and carefully fill the brass channel so that the packing butts nicely. When the channel compresses, the packing is smashed outwards against the inside of the hole while being contained by the compressed brass channel. The very first one I made sealed fine and stopped my leak. You can't use them over again though, so every time you pull the valve, you have to make a new gasket.

There are two seats on the valve: upper (between the firing cylinder and charging cylinder) and lower (between the charging cylinder and outside the engine). With the upper one now compressing more readily with the new brass channel gasket, you have to so something different on the bottom one to allow that compression, or it won't work at all. I just use an O-ring. I can't remember the number off the top of my head, but you can figure that out. There is no combustion heat or pressure on the lower seal, so the rubber O-ring works fine. I am using an oil resistant O-ring made of, I want to say, Buta-N? Does that sound right? I can't remember, but check the material before you get one that will break down in the oil. If the outer, lower, gasket's leaking, you won't get the full charge into the engine, because it has to be able to withstand enough pressure to open that big valve up top. Screw the cap on, and squirt the area with soapy water to see if it's sealing or not.

My engine's been running almost daily, under load, for ten years on this combination. I'm saying that to illustrate how strong the seal combination is. Hopefully I haven't jinxed myself and now it'll blow out today.

Joel

---------- Post added at 08:34:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:31:21 AM ----------

Uh-oh. I read your question as "backfire" not "misfire." Oops. All that wind was for nothing. Ha ha!

Joel the Bad Reader.
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Old 04-07-2016, 10:09:20 AM
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Dwayne Fuller Dwayne Fuller is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

I too had issues with the backfiring on my 25hp. Ray Ethridge gave me some O-rings and I used them for BOTH of the sealing surfaces and that greatly reduced my problem. Not sure how long they will last, but it has been running a few years like that. He gavee me extra and said they will eventually be needed, but they are so easy to put in.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:32:56 PM
Dale Carnahan Dale Carnahan is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

I have been playing with the air fuel mix using the factory throttle and a needle valve. I have an acclamator and a 100 lb bottle. One thing when I corrected the chimney it made a big difference and i have a 5" inch hot tube thinking about trying a 6" because I believe I the timing is still a little late. Question is it safe to try the 6" could it fire to early?

---------- Post added at 08:32:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16:24 PM ----------

Thank you Joel for your detailed info about how to stop the backfie. I will do this.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:50:00 PM
Bill Hazzard Bill Hazzard is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

I have a 6" tube on my engine.
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Old 04-07-2016, 10:04:35 PM
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Dwayne Fuller Dwayne Fuller is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

I'm thinking most Reids have the six in tube.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:10:32 PM
Joel Sanderson Joel Sanderson is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

A long tube makes it a lot easier to start too, especially in the winter. I think my longest is 7", but I only use it in the winter and until the engine warms up to 100º, so timing's not an issue really. (I switch to a kero-gas mix and shut the hot tube off once it's warm.)

Just happened to think: do you have the governor and the mixing valves in your engine? If so, how the slides are positioned will change your gas-to-air proportion and will affect how it runs. You know the manual says to stick an 1/8" wire in to gauge the position, right? Well, if your governor's hooked up, that ratio changes as soon as the slides move. Don't know why the factory made it that way. Something to think about anyway.
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:00:32 PM
Dale Carnahan Dale Carnahan is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

Thank to everyone for your help. I pulled the transfer valve today and it is a mess. The top seal is blowing by and the bottom o-ring is to small and blowing by bad. The valve looks good,going to have it professionally ground. The spring is wrong, one end factory the other cut off. This would be certain to cause a side load on the valve. The guide that is screwed on the end end of the valve and nut was loose and spinning free with considerable distance to travel, at least there was a cotter pin. I need info on the proper spring and tension.

---------- Post added at 09:00:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:45:40 PM ----------

Joel the governor is not hooked up. My best results have been to leave the needle valve in the position I start in and after the engine warms up bump the valves out in increments until I have moved the notch out about .100".
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:02:49 AM
Joel Sanderson Joel Sanderson is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

You might consider putting a stop on your gas valve handle so that once you find its sweet spot you can return to it easily. That's what I did. I kick the gas on and off with my foot and rarely look at it. I made a threaded stop so it's adjustable, along with a ball valve from the hardware. Helps reduce the guess work.

You can also have two valves, leaving the second one for adjustment and the first one for on and off. Still I'd want a screw stop to fine tune the adjustable one though.

Good luck on the crossover valve. Once you pass that hurdle you'll be 90% there. Don't remember spring tension and all that, so I'm not the one to help you there.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:25:42 AM
Dale Carnahan Dale Carnahan is offline
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Default Re: Reid 15 hp misfire

Finished the transfer valve assembly. Designed and machined an upper seal out of Viton. Needed to be able to remove the assembly and reuse the seal to do the R and D on the valve spring.Could not find info on factory spring or setting. This work made a major improvement, now backfires are rare.
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