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1" scale Best steamer.

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
I have made some progress with my model Best. This is a rear wheel which I assembled to see if I could get it running true, which it does. I still have to add the strakes - 24 in number, 1/16" x 1/4" flat. The spokes are 2 mm and the hubs are threaded M2, the locknuts being used to tighten the spokes on assembly. John.
 

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Manorfarmdenton

Registered
At last the rear wheels are more or less finished. Riveting on the treads took an age - I had never riveted anything before and hitting a 1/16 rivet instead of everything in the vicinity was quite a challenge. I nearly got it right on the last tread.......... John.
 

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Steve Kunz

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Very nice job!! :D
Wheels are not the exactly to build.

Keep the pictures coming!

Steve
 

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
Thanks Steve. I had never done anything like it before and I can't believe how long they took. I still have the front one to do and want to do it while I have the rotary table set up on the mill, but am still trying to work out exact dimensions. I reckon from the photos I have that the full sized one is about 5' diameter with 30 spokes (2 rows of 15) but its difficult to establish the width. I'm guessing 1' to 1'3" width. Any suggestions gratefully accepted! John.
 

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
I have at long last finished the front wheel. Altering the jig I used to build the rear wheels has taken a lot of time, but it was worth the trouble as the front wheel spins absolutely true even before bushing the hub.

As with the rear rims, I found a short length of thick walled gas pipe to turn to dimension. I'm hoping to use some of what's left to make the turntable ring for the front wheel.
 

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Lester Bowman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/09/2019
Those are absolutely gorgeous wheels and obviously built to scale.Beautiful work.If the rest of the Best is built to this same standard...it will be a masterpiece.
Don't get in a hurry,don't loose patience and never give up.After you have finished it you will be surprised each time you look at it saying ...I did that? Awesome!
 

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
Thanks for your kind comments Lester. I am actually quite surprised at the patience I have dredged up from somewhere! Patience was never a virtue I was renowned for, and I find it very tricky to even hold the tiny spanners needed to do up the M2 nuts on the spokes. Its doing me good to work to those sort of tolerances though - a change from the 1 1/4" UNF nuts and bolts holding my subsoiler legs! John.
 

Forrest A

Registered
Manorfarmdenton,

Wheels are a great place to start. I built a 12th scale tractor that took 7 years and the wheels caused a 6 month lapse in progress. It is hard to appreciate just how much work goes into a scale model till one tries it themselves. When I see scale models sell cheap knowing how much work was done it gives me knots in my stomach for the person that originally built them. Very nice work! I have a project that will require a boat load of 1/6" rivets so I will have to learn that stuff soon.

Did you try to form the rivets hot or did you just cold form them?
 

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
Hello Forrest. I bought ready made 1/16" x 3/8" iron rivets from a model making supplier. On advice from a friend I countersunk the holes in the strakes, and experimented with the length of rivet to get just the right amount upstanding to nicely fill the countersink when peened over. I found the easy way to size them was to insert the rivet from the inside, sit the head on a rivet snap, just tap the strake to make sure it was right down, then put a washer of appropriate thickness (to give the required length) over the rivet and cut it off with a pair of sidecutting pliers that I had ground on one side so they left a straight cut. Then just peen the rivet cold with a smallish ball pein hammer. They were quite soft and didn't require heating, although I realise that would add tightness by contraction on cooling. John.
 

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
I have finally obtained the internal-toothed gear rings to fit inside the rear wheels. A friend on Smokstak was good enough to do the necessary CAD to provide the .dxf file for me to send to the cutters. I looked at laser and water-jet cutting and went for the latter as there might be distortion with such small cross-sections due to local heating with laser cutting. There was a certain amount of divergence from design dimension by the time the jet was through the 8mm thick mild steel, but I have done some hand filing to trim the teeth. Wire EDM would have been the perfect way to have the rings cut, but the quotes I got were way too expensive, as were the ones for having them machine cut. The ring is a press fit in the rim but when I'm sure its how I want it I'll Loctite it (them) in.
 

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Manorfarmdenton

Registered
Thanks for those kind words Larry. I should really braze the boiler together - I have got all the materials to hand. I keep putting it off because I'm apprehensive, never having done any brazing! And I'm still puzzling over how to have rivets in the horizontal water tank when I can't get access to the inside to rivet them over! Its 8 odd inches long by 4" diameter, and the filler on the top is about 1" id. John.
 

LAKnox

Registered
Age
62
Last Subscription Date
01/15/2016
Are you going to make a set of the 20' wooden extension wheels, too? :)

Lyle
 

JasonB

Registered
Very nice work

There are a few options for the rivits

1. Reaction riviting where you just have a block/dolly inside as large as will fit and the formed head on the outside, as the rivit is hit the inside will swell against the block, won't look like a proper head on the inside but it won't be seen.

2. Silver solder the tank together and then drill the rivit holes and just soft solder them in place.

3. Fit the rivits to the sheets before assembly with shallow CSK holes in the back and just have them as dummies then silver or soft solder the tank together.

J
 

Manorfarmdenton

Registered
Thanks for the kind words Gil!

Jason, good ideas - thanks. I'm a little apprehensive that I won't make a hugely tidy job of soldering, not having done much. Well silver soldering and brazing anyway. A factor is that several people have suggested it will be a pity to paint it as it looks good as bare metal, but a messily soldered tank won't look very special! I think your suggestions, one or another, are probably the way to go though, so it will probably end up being painted. John.
 
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