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1910 IHC Model F Roadster Restoration

LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone some of the latest pictures from Wendell Kelch

As discussed in a previous post the broken fins on the cylinders have been repaired. The cylinders have been painted with a product called Cast Blast. It gives the look of raw cast iron but will not rust. It is available from Eastwood products. A number of early air-cooled cars never had the cylinders painted they were just left to rust. I did not find any traces anywhere of original paint on the crankcase, so I decided on using Brewster Green. IHC was using that color on the International line of engines at the time and I thought it would look good with the cast look of the cylinders, The shiny Brass of many of the accessories on the engine and the natural aluminum color of the oil pan. I just really don't care for Black which is what some folks suggested I go with. Oh well.

Thanks for looking

Happy New Year.
LeRoy :wave:
 

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gleaner

Registered
Wendell has come a long way with it in the past couple of months. I got to look the engine over when I picked up my 1913 Autowagon. Can't wait to see the finished project and hopefully take a spin in it.

Wendell does great work.
 

LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Happy New Year Ed

I wonder what Harold would say about this project.
I recently discovered another 1 of the Model K Roadsters ( Water Cooled ) same engine just different jugs in the Armacost Auto Museum in Kansas City Missouri. Shame it's a private museum and not open to the public. Only way in is to have a club sponsored tour. That makes 1 Model G in the Ford Museum same air cooled motor and car just mounted on High Wheeler Wheels, 2 Model K's same engine and car just has water cooled cylinders and radiator and 6 Model F which are air cooled and like mine.

LeRoy
 

LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone

I thought today I'd post some pictures of making the new wheel rims for the car. I see in one of the previous post I showed pictures of the new wheels we made, but I neglected to tell the rest of the story as Paul Harvey used to say. Originally I had new wood wheels made using the old wheel rims. The folks at the wheels shop looked everything over and thought that all the metal work was fine. So the wheels were made sanded primed etc. ready to mount the tires. While putting the first tire on it's wheel at 40 PSI the backside of the rim collapsed and the bead of the tire blew out over the edge of the rim. I decided right there that the rims had a serious problem and weren't safe. The only thing that anybody at the wheel shop, numerous restoration people in the old car hobby could come up with that made any sense is that some where in it's life that rim may have been in a fire and the make up of the metal had been destroyed. I checked with Coker Tire in Tenn. and they weren't interested in making new rims like the ones on the car as they would have to change a number of the set ups on their machines. So I purchased 4 pieces of 28" diameter tubing with 1-1/4" wall thickness and we made 4 new rims in my own shop. When the rims were finished I very carefully cut the original rims from the new wood wheels and the wheel shop mounted the new rims onto the new wood that they had made for the old rims. This is just one of the many set backs that I've went through restoring this car.

LeRoy :wave:
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone

While Wendell is working on the motor for the car, there are many other things going on with the restoration. I'm including pictures today of the original Rushmore Acetylene Generator before and after pictures. The Brass body was corroded so badly from the chemical reaction of the carbide and water mixture it could not be saved. All hardware and fittings were removed and a new body was made. It would have been nice to have saved the original but it was just beyond repair. In some of the pictures there looks like imperfections in the metal it's just dust being reflected by the highly polished Brass.

Enjoy
LeRoy :wave:
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Again

Several years ago Pennsylvania made it legal to register antique vehicles with year of manufacture plates. The plates must meet 2 conditions. The number on the plate must not already be in use on any vehicle registered in the state and the plate must be in good enough condition to be recognizable from a distance.
I was able to find an original plate that was acceptable to PENDOT and they issued my registration. In 1910 the places were porcelain and Pennsylvania used 2 plates on the car. Today Pennsylvania only requires 1 plate. I was able to find a company in Sweden that could duplicate the original color of Blue and white as the original plate and had 2 new plates made. As far as cost for real porcelain you better be sitting down it ain't cheap, but I have a matched set of plates for the car.

LeRoy
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Folks

Today the cooling fans and the gear boxes that drive them came back from the metal polisher. This motor has a lot of Brass on it as you will see when Wendell has it all finished.
LeRoy :wave:
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
hi Everyone

I got some more pictures from Wendell of the motor. He now has the cooling fans and the gearboxes mounted on the side of the motor. He should be getting the friction drive unit for the fans sometime this week with the new fiber attached.
Enjoy the pictures.
LeRoy :wave:
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone

Today I finished the grill for the new hood. When I bought the car there was a hood included that did not fit. The story I got was that the original hood was missing and a collector that owns one of the other cars still in existence loaned his hood to have a new front casting made. The front of the hood was originally an aluminum casting. Well a new casting was made, but no allowance was made for the shrinkage of the aluminum. So the new hood was about 3/8" to small all the way around and on top of that the casting was all warped. So I drew the front up in CAD and cut a new front out of 1/4" Thick Aluminum plate on CNC router. The grill it's self is fabricated out of 98 pieces of 30 ga. sheet steel carefully fit together and tig welded to form the grid. The IHC Logo is a bronze casting copied from an Auto Buggy. Even this was not cast from an original part, I made a wood pattern to maintain the correct size.

To all that have posted comments about this project THANK YOU. Keep the comments coming.

LeRoy :wave:
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone

Yesterday I finished work on the oil pan. This engine was never provided with any way to check the oil level in the crankcase. The instruction manual just tells you to drain the oil out and refill every 500 miles. It doesn't even tell you how much oil to put in. While Wendell has the engine torn down he measured the oil level when the pan had enough oil for the rods to dip into the oil. It takes 1 quart of oil in each compartment for the rods to dip in the oil. So I decided to add a petcock with a standpipe in each compartment of the oil pan. As long as you can open the petcock that has the standpipe and get some oil to come out you know there is enough oil in the motor. I talked to a number of old car restorers and this is something some manufacture's did. So right or wrong for what it cost to restore things today I decided to modify the oil pan so the oil level can be checked. The red paint in the pictures is a product I learned about on Harry's. It is sold by Eastwood and it's used to seal engine blocks and smoothen out the internal surfaces to give better oil flow. On the outside of the pan we just blasted it and applied a PPG Clear Coat to preserve the natural aluminum color.

Enjoy the pictures

LeRoy
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Again

In these pictures you can see the standpipes inside the pan and also the pan is marked showing which petcocks to use to check the oil and which ones to use to drain the oil. The petcocks for draining the oil are original and they are shown in the operator's manual.

LeRoy :wave:
 

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LCJudge

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Age
60
Last Subscription Date
12/14/2019
Leroy, won't the standpipes fill with the slinging out in the crankcase causing you to have to drain a rather significant amount to know if the level it low? I don't know how else you could do it though.
 

LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Tommy

Believe me that very same thought has been kicked around quite a bit. The standpipes will fill as you suggested. They hold about 2 thimble full of oil. The main goal of these standpipes is to allow draining off the excess oil that will accumulate in the crankcase from the mechanical lubricator. You need a way to know how much oil remains in the pan as you drain off the excess oil. If you completely empty the oil pan it takes a quart of oil in each compartment to get it up to operating level. However as soon as you start the motor the mechanical lubricator starts pumping more oil into each compartment of the oil pan. The lubricator does not pump oil to the bearings it only pumps oil to the compartments in the oil pan.The lubricator holds just over a quart of oil. The instruction book says if the lubricator is adjusted properly the lubricator will need refilled at 500 mile intervals. This is where the standpipes come in all oil above the height of the standpipes will drain out, when the oil stops flowing you know you still have enough oil in the pan to safely run the motor.
It's the best plan we could all agree on to at least have some idea how much oil is in the pan.
LeRoy :wave:
 

OTTO-Sawyer

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Age
57
Last Subscription Date
07/15/2019
The lubricator holds just over a quart of oil. The instruction book says if the lubricator is adjusted properly the lubricator will need refilled at 500 mile intervals. This is where the standpipes come in all oil above the height of the standpipes will drain out, when the oil stops flowing you know you still have enough oil in the pan to safely run the motor.
It's the best plan we could all agree on to at least have some idea how much oil is in the pan.
LeRoy :wave:
Sounds like an Excellent Modification.:salute: If the Factory Didn't eventually do it, They Should Have.

Might also drain each compartment into a separate container :idea: just see if the Lubricator is pumping the same amount into each of them.

:salute:
 

LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone

Just got back from delivering the oil pan and timing chain tensioner brackets to Wendell and snapped a couple of pictures.

This engine has a lot of brass on it and there is still more to be added. evidently they wanted this thing to stand out, because I don't recall any other IHC built engines from the time having this much Brass

Enjoy the pictures

LeRoy :wave:
 

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LeRoy IHC

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Last Subscription Date
03/07/2018
Hi Everyone

I have attached pictures of the new casting for the pulley and the old pulley which was badly broken. Seems like the Brass material used to make the original pulley might have been a poor choice, so the new castings was made from Silicon Bronze which is pretty tough stuff and miserable to machine.

Enjoy

LeRoy
 

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