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1924 International 8-16 Junior

UKBen

Registered
Have recently acquired this lovely IC Engined, IH 8-16 Junior.

Been in the UK since new and has been restored in the past.
However, the manifold is suffering a bit and I am worried that many journeys on a trailer and heating and cooling at working days and shows, and it will disintegrate before my eyes.

It doesn't affect the running and it burns Petrol & Kero well but I would like to source a Cigar type manifold if i can.

Anyone knows of one for sale, please feel free to contact me.

Many thanks

[/url]1921 International Junior 8-16 by Ben Hughes, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]1921 International Junior 8-16 by Ben Hughes, on Flickr[/IMG]
[/url]1921 International Junior 8-16 by Ben Hughes, on Flickr[/IMG]

---------- Post added at 09:21:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19:06 AM ----------

Thread title should read 1921 not 1924 :bonk:
 

Russ Hamm

Subscriber
Age
61
Last Subscription Date
10/12/2024
If you cant find one and have the means to ship, Langes' machine can weld that up really nice. That is, if its still thick enough I suppose.
Noticed the fenders are tall for spade lugs, cutout for the pulley. Looks really nice, correct hood latches also.
 

etech1

Registered
I have several reproductions if you are interested I have un-machined or can get them machined. Shipping may be expensive. They are made from new patterns and we have put better iron in the material (more nickle). The wall thickness has been increased where they normally break.
The one on my tractor has been running for several years without problems. They look the same as the originals.
 

steelwheelrat

Registered
The crack problems with this manifold have been discussed in a few threads and are all too common. I’ve mentioned a few times that we poured some manifolds, but I don’t think I’ve ever really elaborated on how we got to that point. Etech1(Dad) started to explain it so here goes.

Disclaimer: I’m a nerd and I’m going to geek out so bear with me….

As my senior design project in college, I elected to reproduce this manifold and an 8-16 mogul part. I needed a project to avoid being assigned one by my instructors and Dad needed some tractor parts- Win/Win situation
The project consisted of reverse engineering the manifold, identifying the design flaws, correcting the flaws/improving the design, and producing functional components. Analysis showed there were several design flaws and some solidification problems to correct in addition to hideous chemical composition (pretty standard for the teens and 20’s). Foundry simulation software gave me the opportunity to experiment with my rigging scheme to eliminate the solidification issues. Stress analysis in 3D modeling software identified stress risers in the failure area internally so those could be modified as well. Since there was little I could do to combat the thermal stress problem without modifying the outward appearance of the manifold, I elected to modify the metallurgy (the metallurgical modifications etech1 mentioned), increasing the nickel, copper and silicon content. The result was refinement of the grain structure, an increase the tensile strength and toughness, and an improvement in the thermal stability of the alloy. I did pour the mogul parts before graduation, but I didn’t get the manifold poured. We were able to get a shop in Oklahoma to pour a few for us a few months later though. I’ll look later and see if I can find the thumb drive with the data and pictures from the project.

I get a kick out of our hobby’s use of modern tools and tech to reproduce something our forefathers did with a slide rule, a pencil and some serious intellect. Hats off to those guys, they were legit...
 

Attachments

Jon Nessel

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/12/2019
Couldn't have done the 25-45 Case manifold instead, eh? Nice job none the less.
 

steelwheelrat

Registered
Sorry, no new water manifolds or case manifolds. Is Rosewood Machine offering the 25-45 manifold? I think I remember seeing some Crossmotor manifolds listed but don't remember what all was available.
 

Davek73

Registered
Hi Ben, having manifold issues myself over the years with other tractors I have used cast iron welding services in coalville, ask for Dave palmer, he will sort you out, if you go up there ask for a tour round their place its amazing, there isn't anything they can't do,
Regards dave
 

UKBen

Registered
Hi Ben, having manifold issues myself over the years with other tractors I have used cast iron welding services in coalville, ask for Dave palmer, he will sort you out, if you go up there ask for a tour round their place its amazing, there isn't anything they can't do,
Regards dave
Thanks Dave. I have actually ordered a new one from the chap earlier in this thread. Been machined and shipped to my friends container bound for the UK.

I'll send pictures when it arrives and after i've fitted it. Thanks to everyone who has replied :salute:
 

Jack Redmond

Registered
Steelwheelrat how much are your manifolds both machined and unmachined? Could do with one. Thanks you.
 
Last edited:

Duey C

Subscriber
Age
55
Last Subscription Date
12/08/2019
Glad this is back up.
What little television I watch, there was an 8-6 on Downton Abbey a couple years back.
It'd be fun if yours is that one shown. :)
 

D Rutherford

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
10/03/2019
Im working again, on my 8-16 IH, our recent move has set this tractor back.... its a HC sn 1054, 1919. I had the tractor all apart several years ago due to camshaft bearings locking up. Today i checked the timing and it was off the only thing I came up with was to remove the governor housing and turning the shaft and realigning the coupler. well, I got it to HUFF a couple times Im sure it was due to the gas in the primer.
So, how else do I time the magneto to the engine? Thanks, in advance
 

AultmanTaylor

Registered
Im working again, on my 8-16 IH, our recent move has set this tractor back.... its a HC sn 1054, 1919. I had the tractor all apart several years ago due to camshaft bearings locking up. Today i checked the timing and it was off the only thing I came up with was to remove the governor housing and turning the shaft and realigning the coupler. well, I got it to HUFF a couple times Im sure it was due to the gas in the primer.
So, how else do I time the magneto to the engine? Thanks, in advance
Looking at cylinder 4, when the exhaust valves closes and the inlet valve starts to open you're close to TDC for cylinder 1 and 4. Your magneto should release the clicking system and produce a spark at cylinder 1 about 10 degrees after that.
 

D Rutherford

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
10/03/2019
Looking at cylinder 4, when the exhaust valves closes and the inlet valve starts to open you're close to TDC for cylinder 1 and 4. Your magneto should release the clicking system and produce a spark at cylinder 1 about 10 degrees after that.
thanks aultman, Ill give it a try this morning, let me pick your brain a little more, how do you advance or retard the mag itself? its the Dixie mag, my Rumely has the Bosch and Im able to make adjustments to it but have not been able to on the Dixie
 
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