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1925 Buick Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe

oldsoldster

Registered
I dropped in on a local cruise night with our '40 Packard and was approached by a former work mate,who asked if I was interested in a 1918 Oldsmobile V8 touring.Restoration had been started but it needed work.I said "no" but got the contact info,as a friend has a 1920 Olds V8.On phoning the number given,turns out there are 3 cars for sale to settle an estate,the Olds,a 1925 Buick coupe,and a 1928 Dodge sedan.
We went to see them.My friend is negotiating on the Olds.The Buick and Dodge are restored,but the Buick hasn't run in 25 years.I threw out an offer on the '25 Buick and it was accepted ! Seems it was specially built for a doctor.It is an "opera" or 'victoria" style and the doctor didn't want the front folding passenger seat (not sure why).It's a sweet little car and should only need the fuel system flushed to get it running.It has a 50HP,191 cu.in.OHV six cylinder engine.
 

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BMyrkle

Registered
Last Subscription Date
06/05/2017
Having grown up in the Flint, MI area, I have always admired those old Buicks! Congratulations!
 

casertractor

Registered
Age
36
Last Subscription Date
04/24/2018
The car still looks great considering it sat for 20 years.Congrats on getting it :)
 

Tony Thompson

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
09/18/2019
Oh my god...
Another one!
These fabulous old cars and trucks just keep showing up, I love it!
Get it running and drive it around. You do not need to go too far, just get it and yourself out there.
Everyone is going to love this great old car everywhere you go.
Thank you for posting!
Got any detail shots? Would love a peak up under the old girls skirt :p
Tony
 

oldsoldster

Registered
Snapped a shot of the dash also.The lever on the far left is the control for the choke heater.It diverts warm exhaust air back to the carb for cold weather starts.This was one of the first cars to have a steering column lock too_Odometer milage shows 27000,which could well be correct.
 

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PFT

Sponsor
Last Subscription Date
02/07/2020
Looks like a reverse rotation fan, is it driven from the Camshaft?
PFT
 

oldsoldster

Registered
Got the Buick home today.Had to let most of the air out of the rear tires and have a guy stand on the back of the car to get it in (and out) of the trailer.The old girl's 75 inches tall.With a fresh battery,it turns over freely and even the klaxon horn and lights work.It should fire up after we clean out the fuel system.Not bad after sitting 25 years.
 

BHoward

Registered
Last Subscription Date
05/04/2018
Had a 1927 GMC truck with the same engine and I think the fan pulley was on the camshaft . Good engine for there time. Bill H.
 

Oldtech

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
12/14/2019
Yes. The pulley is on front of camshaft. So they could make a crank mechanism . They used this system on 4 and 6 cyl from 1916? To 1930.

---------- Post added at 09:46:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:38:02 PM ----------

Steering lock? I think all ive seen had transmission lock. 28 or 29 for steering column lock. High tech engine for the time. Pressure lube. Roller lifters. Maybe dual springs on valves. . Probably best engines GM had which is why they used them in the trucks. Master series had a bigger one.
 

oldsoldster

Registered
This one has a lock at the base of the transmission.My '29 has a locking steering column.

Spent some time yesterday cleaning and polishing.Apart from a few scratches,it still shines up nice.
Got the first running board finished and installed.After much discussion and research on the AACA forum.it was decided that 1925 was the last year Buick used battleship linoleum on it's running boards.
 

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oldsoldster

Registered
IT RUNS !! After cleaning out the entire fuel system and resetting the timing several times to no avail, I decided to check the firing order in the manual.Having owned several Chevy sixes and also checking a couple of sites online,I assumed the firing order was 1-5-3-6-2-4. WRONG.On these models it'e 1-4-2-6-3-5 ! On correcting this,it fired right up and ran like a watch.It was nice to drive it out of the garage under it's own power for the first time.
Now if I can get the vacuum tank working--------
 

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Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
There is a website for the Stuart vacuum fuel pumps. They don't have parts for the ones used on the old Kohler OHVs but do have ones for autos. If you try to dis-assemble the pump yourself - be VERY careful with the zinc top. Poor quality and VERY BRITTLE! You bust it, its done - no replacements. The float should be nickel plate, and internal pump parts are brass. If not worn, easy to clean with a good carb cleaner. Gaskets are cork, about 1/16" thick.
Andrew
 

John Hamilton

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
05/25/2019
You should be able to find vacuum tank instructions on the web. The first thing it will say is that the problem almost certainly isn't the tank. First make certain all the lines including the one to the carb are clear and good luck. Do you have enough gas?
 

Andrew Mackey

Moderator
Last Subscription Date
05/14/2017
Yes, if you have drained the fuel pump, you MUST prime it or it won't work! There should be either a 1/8 or 1/4" pipe plug in the top. remove it and put in about a pint of gas. Once the engine starts, the pump should work from that point, unless is is gummed or worn.

Simple pump operation: Gas gravity feeds to the carb from the pump reservoir. Intake manifold provides vacuum to the top of the pump. The internal float keeps vacuum out of the reservoir. Once gas level drops, the float drops, allowing intake manifold vacuum into the reservoir, which in turn sucks gas from the tank. This fills the reservoir, the float rises, shuts off vacuum and allows air into the reservoir on the pump. Gas now gravity feeds the carb. Cycle repeats as necessary. If the reservoir is MT, there is no gas to feed the carb, and just cranking or idling the engine will not develop enough vacuum to fill the pump reservoir. If the float is stuck or the valving gummed up, vacuum and air cannot be regulated within the pump. There should be no or little resistance for gas flow to the pump.

You can test flow by doing the following: Remove fuel line from tank to pump. Now, removing the gas tank cap and blowing about 10 PSI of air into the tank, with a rag as a seal, you should see gas coming out of the pump supply, from the tank. No gas, then you have a blockage in the fuel pick up. Next, fill the reservoir on the pump as above. Disconnect fuel line from the carb, you should get gas, gravity fed, to the carb reservoir. No gas - switch or float damage or gummed up in the pump. DO NOT force gas thru the pump itself, it will not work that way, and you may damage the float! If you have gas, see if the needle and seat, as well as the float in the carb are working. If the Stuart pump is working, you will hear an audible click as the float valve assembly works look carefully at the connections on the top of the pump. Fuel in, Vacuum and fuel out should be plainly marked. I have seen pumps with the piping wrong! Check the vacuum piping from the intake. You need a minimum of 10 PSI vacuum at the pump connection, for the pump to work - bad valves will cause an issue
 
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