That's one rusty clutch plate! How hard was it to strip that clutch assembly apart? I find the hardest jobs are trying to take things apart without breaking them. What were you tapping there?Clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Also a pic of one of the 2 cylinders that had a large nick near the top. Glad I never had to use any of these either. That last parts tractor that gave me a block, head and rear wheels was likely the best stroke of luck in the last 17 years.
View attachment 384922View attachment 384923View attachment 384924
Ill bet cleaning flywheel holes but also ive had rusted pressure plate bolt heads so bad I had to cut them off and remove the rest.That's one rusty clutch plate! How hard was it to strip that clutch assembly apart? I find the hardest jobs are trying to take things apart without breaking them. What were you tapping there?
Ric, I never knew this about Farmall Regular tractors, great story about the brake cables. You did amazing work with the copper crimps. Did you JD Weld the cables to the copper? Well Done Ric!I also remembered last week another job I needed to do. The Farmall tractor featured independent rear wheel brakes and an automatic braking system. Today we take independent rear brakes for granted, conveniently operated with foot pedals. The Farmalls brakes were activated with hand levers. Not convenient for making tight turns while cultivating when both hands were busy turning the steering wheel. On the back of the front steering post is an arm. Attached to that arm are 2 cables. Each runs thru a pulley and down the side of the tractor back to the brakes levers. As the front wheels are turned either right or left, the arm on the steering post engages after about 30 degrees. As the cable tightens one of the brakes starts to apply. The harder the turn, the more brake applied. Slick and simple system. My tractor had all the parts but both cables had broken and been spliced using u-bolt clamps. Repro’s are available but thought I’d try a home made fix. New 3/16” cable was readily available at the hardware store. Splices are also available but they make a “side by side” connection which wouldn’t pull right. So I bought 1’ of 1/4” copper tubing and cut into 1-1/2” lengths. I had to ream out the tubes with a 3/16” drill to get the cable in. After inserting each cable end in half way, I used a sharp punch to make a series of indents to hold the cable in place. This is very similar to the way we spliced wires at the wire harness plant I worked at, only they had higher tech equipment! My plan was to solder the couplings but I was unable to get solder to stick to the old cable even after sandblasting it. I also tried brazing but by the time I got the cable hot enough to stick, the copper coupler melted. So I just decided to fill the coupler with JB Weld, then insert the cable. I covered the entire joint with heat shrink to hide it. Got everything installed and set up tonight. Seems to work well. Time will tell if my splices hold. A few pics and a short video showing how the system works.
View attachment 386736View attachment 386738View attachment 386737View attachment 386739View attachment 386740