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1942 Monarch 10EE Lathe

dkamp

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I have a 1942 round-dial just like it in my shop. A 'stopped working' situation is not a difficult aspect to troubleshoot, and they're not difficult to VFD.

I wouldn't trade it for ANYTHING.... it's FANTASTIC.

D1-3 spindle, and Jarno #12 taper.
 

dkamp

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There's many different flavors of 10EE... they obvious major exterior change is identified by the feed adjustment... early units like this, and mine, are 'round dial', where later are 'square dial'. There's several variations of drive... the motor-generator appeared in at least two variations, possibly 3, then there was a couple of electronic drives, at least one used mercury rectifier tubes in a variable-dc arrangement. Modernized, fully refurbished 10EEs can still be purchased through Monarch... with modern VFD and DRO systems... they're incredibly precise, incredible finish quality, incredibly durable and dimensionally stable, and incredibly expensive.

I have an old Allis-Chalmers 480v 3ph motor driving my spindle via a 3:1 Gates Polychain. The motor is powerered by a first-generation 480v Allen-Bradley 1336 equipped with an external braking resistor. The 1336 receives 480v single phase from a 7kva 480:240v dry transformer wired backwards... 240 in, 480 out. I half-tapped the 240 side to provide 120 for the lights, controls, and coolant pump (if I ever decide to use it). It's an awesome machine. it's STILL sloppy, btw... mine came from Oak Ridge National Labs via Rock Island Arsenal DRMO, tagged "Uneconomical To Repair", which means it was Just My Type of Gal. ;-)
 

dkamp

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Here's an electrical mockup of my drive:
mockup.jpg
on top, the 1336... earliest model... very limited programming, but nonetheless, functional., 480v three phase input.

Below, a big transformer... 480 in, 240/120 single phase out. I've wired it backwards, feeding 240 in on the secondary yields 480 single phase on primary, which is connected to A and C on the 1336. It doesn't know there's no B, and doesn't care.

On right, is a small control transformer, provides power to operate the run/stop contactor, and an aux power contactor for lights, coolant pump, etc.
 

dkamp

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Here's the transformer mounted in the belly, and drive hanging (yeah, it was temporary) on the end. Making sure it'll all fit okay...transbelly.jpg
belly.jpg
 

dkamp

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And the motor... notice the end bell looks funny? That's because the original fan and shroud have been removed from the motor, and I've made a new end shroud, and fitted a constant-speed cooling fan... controlled by the aux contactor, it's flowing cooling air through the motor no matter wether it's running, stopped, or somewhere in between.motorready.jpg
 

dkamp

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tootheddrive.jpg
and here's what it looks like in place for it's first test.
Notice there's no control box on the upper right, and no speed potentiometer connected to the tiny sprocket under the thoothed belt... I made a bracket to adapt a standard control pot in place of the dual field/armature current control rheostats that resided there before.
 

dkamp

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I DO have a photo of the spindle control switch...
backside.jpg
Top left, mounted to a disc with three (I think) screws, and operated by a tapered pin rotated by a forked shaft from the direction handle. The switch logic is incorrect for my 1336, so I dismantled and reconfigured it for run forward/run reverse operation:
headstocksw1.jpgheadstocksw2.jpg

Be careful when reassembling, the hole and pin are tapered, and they only go together one way, and you'll drop the $#@%@^ pin into the headstock if it's not right... (don't ask how I know)
 
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