• If you like antique engines, vintage tractors or old iron machinery, register and join us. When you register on Smokstak, please give complete answers and fill in all blanks. IF YOU ARE ON WIRELESS OR SATELLITE, GIVE YOUR CITY AND STATE! NO ZIPCODES! All registrations are manually approved.

1948 John Deere B

BOB White12

Registered
I have been working on this 1948 John Deere B for years now, and before my dad has been working on it for years. We have never been able to get it to run quite right, but the main problem we are facing now is the pin hole in one of the push rod tube of the block that's filling up the crank case with water. We have already tried using jb weld which held for awhile but i'm looking for a more permanent fix. I have considered putting in a insert but I don't know how too since the hole is ob longed.
DSCF1073.JPG
I know the head has replaceable inserts but the block does not and the leak is in the head. Any advise will be appreciated
 

CharlieB

Registered
I'm guessing the pinhole is where the orange rust is in the lower right corner of the opening? It looks accessible. Is there still a decent thickness of cast iron there? Back in the day, we used to fix pin holes by drilling them out, fashioning a tapered lead plug from an old wheel balance weight, and driving it into the drilled hole. That's good if it's only one pin hole. Won't work if you have Swiss cheeze there.
 

BOB White12

Registered
thanks for the information but there are more problems to be figured out. The 2nd most major problem is the flywheel and cam timing. I believe one or maybe even both of these could be off but I don't see any markings on the crank shaft. There are markings on the cam shaft but I don't see any on the crank shaft :mad:.
Any help would be appreciated
 

ronm

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
The LH EXH OPEN mark on the flywheel is for cam timing. Just like it says, when the mark lines up, within an inch or so, the #1 ex. valve should just start to open. With the clearance adjusted to spec, of course.
 

Sonny Reese

Registered
If that hole is in the cast iron, weld it.---IF you can reach it, otherwise it means a different block.
As for timing, it's like ronm says! --- Did many of B, A , G, D, over the years, not hard to get that part set.
 

ronm

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
A machine shop could probably bore & sleeve that hole, but might be cost prohibitive. Maybe time for a different block, as Sonny said....
 

BOB White12

Registered
But how do I know if the flywheel was put back on right? Does it only go on one way or is there a way to check? Also we put quite a lot of money in the block, boring and sleeving it so getting a new one is not really what I want to do. And I can just rob it off another tractor because I live in flat wheat land country and these tractors are very uncommon in my area.
 

Craig A

Moderator
Staff member
Age
68
Last Subscription Date
12/20/2015
Isn't there a V stamped in the end of the crankshaft?
There is a V stamped in the flywheel hub as well.
 

ronm

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
If you already put a lot into it, put a little more & get the pushrod hole sleeved. As Craig said, there should be V-marks on the crank & flywheel. If it ran at all, the flywheel's probably on right. One spline off & it wouldn't even try...
 

Craig A

Moderator
Staff member
Age
68
Last Subscription Date
12/20/2015
I should have mentioned we bushed quite a few JD flywheels with the tapered bushings (unfinished) we got from Allen Machine Works in Tennessee.
Having to get the bushing indexed to the flywheel was sometimes difficult because I could BARELY find the V on the flywheel hub........ :help:
 

Sonny Reese

Registered
Marks on flywheel and crank splines are sometimes a bit hard to see. I was thinking they only go on 1 way, but its been eons since I messed with them.
I have a 50 B out here in the shed, --- might have to look at the end of the flywheel on it and see if anything shows.
On the leak, I am not seeing where you could even start putting any sleeves in. if your talking about that out-of-round hole,---you will never get any sleeve to fit in there,---I don't think!
Check on welding, brazing, or even solder to fix it. Use a micro grinder to clean the area and go from there. I can't see any other options that would work.
 

BOB White12

Registered
I don't see any marks on the crank or flywheel but I have a feeling that if it where off just by one notch that the timing would be too off the run and we did get it to run but it always ran terrible
DSCF1087.JPG
also about the leak I have considered sealing off the cavity and filling it with molten solder or lead then drill it out. would this have any negative affects?
 

Sonny Reese

Registered
I would think that if you got it really clean and down to bare metal, it should hold. Use a lot of good flux for good adhesion .
Now some of these did run on the ruff side! ---We had one that had carb problem, Dad put a different carb on it and it did run better.
Dad had an old A, it was a 44 and the casting that the mag drive was in lobbed out making it run like crap. Dad welded up the casting and ground it off to fit the best he could and it ran better, BUT was hard to start,--so he didn't get something quite lined up.
These are bear to get everything just right on.
Check all of the gears, linkages, connectors, etc. close to see if something is worn just beyond specs. and making it not run the way it should.
 

Sonny Reese

Registered
2-1.jpg

Don't know if this helps or not but they say there are marks on both the hub and the flywheel cover.---any marks like this showing on yours?? ---this is 48 A but they claim B marks are in the same location.

O.k., in your pic,--I see the punch mark in the upper right, next to the bolt hole----that's where it's s'posed to be.
 

ronm

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
If this was my block, I would:
Drill all the way through the hole. Looks like the hole is only that size for a little ways, then just a cavity inside, so only have to drill the ends. Ream it to size. Find a tube that fits the hole, big enough ID to leave room for the pushrod. Swedge or loctite the ends. No leak.
I have a late A block in the shop, I'll look at it to see if my theory will work or not, it should be about the same...
Some cranks have a semi-blank spline that only lets the flywheel go on one way, some have V marks, some of the old D's had a rivet on one spline. There is always some provision to get it right...
 
Last edited:

BOB White12

Registered
Eureka!! I found the reason its ran so terribly for the last 20 years we have had it!!
DSCF1092.JPG
I have it lined up on the flywheel but its not lined up in here. Now the question is how do I move it a tooth without removing too much more?
Also Its been quite damp the last couple of days so it has got some surface rust.
 

BOB White12

Registered
update: I learned from my dad that this is the correct timing and that it would run terrible with the marks lined up. is there a mistake in the casting? has anyone else had this problem?
 

ronm

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
07/10/2019
Where is the mark on the crank gear? it doesn't show in your picture. Did you check the valve timing by the flywheel mark like we asked before?
Another way to check valve timing is by"split overlap". At TDC exhaust stroke both valves should be open equally, EX closing & IN opening. It's no small job to change the cam timing on a B...
 
Top