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1963 Kohler L600 Engine from 6.5M21 Electric Plant

Zephyr7

Registered
I like the safety wire on those bolts on the crankshaft bearings :)

I’ve used those bristle brushes with the twisted wire center to reach into things before. You can bend them a little to get inside of angled places. For the really deep coolant passages you might be able to poke some copper wire in there’s and twirl it around to jar stuff loose but I’m not sure anything could get everywhere.

Bill
 

jack0

Registered
Age
61
Keith.

If this is a viable block. Maybe contact an engine shop with a hot tank and get their opinion on the best methods to cleaning.

Maybe there are some non-aggressive ways to clean out the waterways with a minimum amount of iron loss.
 

John Newman Jr.

Subscriber
Age
64
Last Subscription Date
12/23/2019
VanMan
I have a Kohler that is similar to yours. In fact, I have two. Bought one through Craigslist and it is a nice complete unit, but has a broken mag. Acquired a second marine unit cheap just to get the good mag that was on it.
Anybody need a water cooled exhaust manifold for one of these?.....(Among many other parts)
Anyway,
The broken mag that I have does appear to have a good coil in it. The small gear has a broken tooth and the support / bracket for the rotor gear is snapped off. I can turn the shaft and when the impulse snaps, there is spark at the points.
If you would be interested in this mag, PM me and we can go from there.
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
I would be interested in a good mag coil, but both of mine are Wico...

I am interested in your water cooled manifold though, depending on it's configuration, for the other set I am working on.

There was another fellow on here that had a manifold for me, but we have lost touch. That project has taken longer than I thought, so I haven't attempted to make contact again.
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Yesterday I decided to clean up and flush the radiator a bit. Wow, full of junk! Even after plenty of flushing, it's still pretty restrictive. The core doesn't seem to leak, but the brass upper inlet fitting is cracked at the joint with the upper tank, and the cast iron lower outlet fitting has a pinhole in it. It doesn't really matter since I do not need a radiator for the other set I am working on, and if I get this one to run, I can use the radiator left over from the other one.

Moving on, tonight I pulled, inspected, and plastigauged the rod bearings. They don't look too bad, certainly not as bad as the other engine. They've definitely got some mileage on them, and have passed some trash a time or two. They measure pretty much at the upper clearance limit.

I wonder if I can semi compensate for these bearings by running a little heavier oil and by raising the oil pressure a bit...

I then pulled the pistons. No broken rings this time. The ones from the rusty cylinder are stuck, but I'm sure I can free them. The pistons look OK. The bores look OK too. Can see a ridge, but cannot feel it. Bores feel smooth, even the rusty one.
 

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Zephyr7

Registered
I’d worry about that radiator when running under pressure. All that corroded crud that came out used to be making the tubes in the radiator thicker and stronger before it became rust :)

Fingers crossed you’ll be able to salvage enough good parts between the two units to make one runner!

Bill
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
The other one actually was a runner before I pulled it apart. It ran good too, and I *amost* didn't take it apart. I'm glad I did, what with the couple of chewed bearings, the broken rings, and the big, thick layer of sludge in the bottom. :crazy:

At this point it's a matter of choosing the best block, crank, bearings, and pistons for the important one. I still think I'll have two runners when I'm done (the mag and water pump not withstanding). But this one, if it runs again, will just be a fun toy to tinker with. :D
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
I was finally able to get the crank pulley nut loose. It was *TIGHT*!!! :eek:

I don't have a socket here that size, so I couldn't use an impact wrench. So I put an 1-5/8" combination wrench on it, then put an 1-1/2" wrench over that, making a ~3 foot long wrench. I put a 24" pipe wrench on the pulley, and a long piece of Unistrut over it's handle. I still couldn't get it loose, and was about to give up, but one more really good pull and.... Ahhhhh.... :D If that hadn't worked, I was going to put a ratchet strap around the wrench handles next... :O
 

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Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Got the timing gear cover off and the crank out. Plastigaged #1 and #2 main with .002 - .006 Plastigage, and it just *barely* made an impression. :eek: With my bad eyes I'd call it ~.006". Spec is .001 - .0035 And it's not just bearing wear. I can feel the raised center part of the journal that lines up with the oil groove in the bearing. This was also evident on the rod bearings, but not nearly to this degree. Haven't mic'd the crank yet, but I can only imagine lol.

It'll be interesting to see how the bores measure up. Would be nice if they're better than the other engine. Reaching in from the bottom, I can see where the piston ring travel stops, and I can feel the change with a fingernail, but it feels pretty slight.
 

DKamp

Registered
That big sheave has me thinkin' that mebbie someone made this into some sort of APU... or was slinging a big DC generator for either welding or engine-starting... or something like that... mebbie they converted it to a power unit for a rock crusher?
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Story goes that the engine was "Used to drive a generator to power lights on a construction site". Of course that could have been when it still had it's original generator. Or, based on everything else in the ad vs what I have found, it may not be true at all lol. :crazy:

Either way, if it runs again, it should be a useful thing to have around. :brows:
 

Vanman

Subscriber
Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Finally got a little more Kohler time. :D

Got the valves out, but broke one. Dumb. It was my fault. Managed to get the sticky ones out without breaking them.

Then pulled the cam and tappets, keeping them all in order, of course. :brows:

Now to evaluate both blocks and pick the best one for use on the other set.

I also seem to have inadvertently discovered why the bearings and crank in this engine are so heavily worn. Looks like the oil pump inlet had been severely restricted at some point!
 

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Vanman

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Last Subscription Date
06/10/2020
Just wanted to update this thread one last time, so it isn't left hanging.

I measured the bores in the block as best I could with what I have. Should be within a couple thousandths. What I have found is that they are still pretty much standard down near the bottom, and are as much as 0.015" over at the top!! :crazy: So that's the end of that. It would need 20 over pistons and rings or sleeve back to standard. Neither one is going to happen any time soon lol.

Add to that the crank and bearing wear. When I was pulling it apart I Plastigaged the mains and rod bearings and found them to be around 0.005" ~ 0.006". The journals and the bearing inserts are worn and rough feeling. So we'd have to go 10 under here, and that's not going to happen either.

So there's not a whole lot usable. I think I'll use the head from this one as I want to mill it. It's rustier in the water jacket, so if I screw it up beyond salvage I will still have my other better head.

You win some, you lose some! :wave:

Keith
 

DKamp

Registered
Oh quit'cher snivlin' and put it back together. if that 15 thou taper bothers 'ya, you'd just get some 10-over pistons, and bottle-brush the bottom good 'till the skirts don't bind.

When that engine's warm and working, it's probably a whole lot closer to straight. ;-)
 
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